1989 F250 Ignition tumbler problems

broughy84 · #1 03-03-2007, 07:45 PM

Well, here is what I have, I just purchased a 1989 F250 4x4. It has Auto trans, and a 5.8L. 121k on the clock. I have a few problems mainly the rear main seal and the ignition.

The truck runs great when it runs. You see the ignition switch does not respond right in the "run" position. I was told to change the tumbler as it may have some wear on it. Anyway, you can drive the truck, but only if you apply pressure to the switch. You have to turn it towards the start position and it will make contact. If not, you loose all electrical power, gauges, spark etc...

I bought a Haynes Manual, I am mechanicly inclined (i rebuild my 88 chev truck) I just am not familiar with Fords at all. Here is the problem. The manual for the truck says to put the key in "run" and depress the cylinder release pin with a very small screw driver or ice pick. Then the cylinder should pull out. Installation is reverse of removal.

THERE IS NOT A HOLE FOR SAID PIN ANYWHERE ON THE COLUMN!!!!

THE D@MN THING DOESN'T EXIST!!!

I think I am going to replace the switch as well, but before i drop the column to do that I want to get this replaced. Only thing I can figure is that I am going to have to pull the steering wheel..... I really don't want to do that.

missm · #2 05-24-2007, 11:53 PM

I don't know if you've fixed your ignition problem yet...seeing that it's been awhile since you've posted. But just in case I've found that on the older Fords that you have to remove the bottom steering wheel housing panel to get to that little pin in the tumbler. I just use a nail to reach up and push the pin in with. Never has hurt it. If you can't find it, it should be about an inch from the outside of the switch. I just did one today and had to turn almost upside down to see the pin. Putting it back in just make sure that you have it in the "off" position and it will slide (with a slight amount of pressure to the pin) right back in. You might have to wiggle it some though. Hope this helps!

mikecee48 · #3 05-27-2007, 11:54 PM

Just for future posters having the same problem -- some vehicles have the actual electrical ignition switch located way down near the bottom of the column, under the dash. The key cylinder operates a long (actuator) arm that goes to the switch. This problem might not be the ignition lock cylinder and I've never heard of a tumbler problem causing that. Besides the electrical switch itself, the malfunction could also be worn out rubber or plastic grommets in the actuator arm causing the arm not to throw the switch far enough to make proper electrical contact within the switch. And, that may be why the above complaint occurred since he had to move it further into the Start position to make it perform in the Run position.

bluebuick91 · #4 11-04-2007, 01:48 AM

I have an 88 F150 5.0L EFI w/tilt wheel. I can turn the ignition on, it rotates freely all the way back to the start position, but it won't return. I can leave it in the start position and jump the solenoid to start it and it will run and drive fine. But when I turn it back to the accessory nothing works at all now. The radio used to work with it turned to accessory. Am I having trouble with the tumbler or the ignition switch below on the column. I am out of town and hope to make it home with this problem. If you can help ASAP, I would appreciate your replies. Thanks in advance for your help-Jennifer

dugan50 · #5 11-04-2007, 09:10 PM

For all those that responded:
You are all talking about a broken ignition rack gear inside the column. It is a cast piece of metal that breaks all the time. The part is @ $10, but the labor to do it is about $100. This part is what actually pushes the rod that goes to the ignition switch mounted lower in the column. The steering wheel, turn signal switch, upper column bowl and tilt housing all have to come off to get to it.

bluebuick91 · #6 11-05-2007, 11:00 AM

I dread having to pull the steering wheel, so I was wondering, since my key works right now, can I just install a push button to get by? And will it one day quit working at all? Just wondering, since you seem to know about it. thanks

bluebuick91 · #7 11-05-2007, 06:43 PM

i dropped the column i took it all apart removed the broken part (went to ford got a new one $10 change they called it a switch actuator that broke) but i cant get it in do i have to remove the 4 bolts holding the tilt on from the back side. or do i need to remove the 2 pins one on each side of the tilt part.

dugan50 · #8 11-05-2007, 08:12 PM

You need to remove the tilt head by 1st removing the load spring on the bottom (or it will hit you in the face), then by removing the 2 pivot pins. Once those are out, pull the positioning pawl down and remove the tilt head.
After that is out of the way, the hardest part will be removing the broken part of the rack stuck in the upper part of the tube. You will need to use a pick and gently pry it out. Look at the new piece to see what I am talking about. Sometimes we use sticky caulk , and can stick it to the end and pull it out. After that, it's all reassembly

bluebuick91 · #9 11-05-2007, 10:10 PM

thank you i already have the broke off piece out of the square tube now i just need to get it in and back together i have a new pivot pin remover i guess i get to use it finally
again thank you for your help
jennifer

bluebuick91 · #10 11-06-2007, 07:09 AM

I forgot to ask on the last post, but how do you put the pivot pins back in once you remove them with the remover? I am planning on doing this project today sometime, so will need to know how before I get started. Trying to do it myself, since I don't have the $200 for the shop to do it for me...thanks for all the help! I am taking pictures as I go in case I or anyone else come across this again!

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