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#1
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Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
I have the bolt loose, but does the damper/balancer have to pulled with a gear puller? I can't quite remember if there was a trick for removing it. Looks like it needs a 3 arm puller. Seems like when I worked on the other Lesabre, it slid off without too much trouble. I am working on replacing the crank and cam position sensors. Thanks.
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#2
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Re: Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
What year are we working on here? Regardless, never use a "three arm puller" on the harmonic balancer!
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#3
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Re: Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
Quote:
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#4
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Re: Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
I guess the year would help, wouldn't it? It's a '97. The damper has 3 small holes in it as if lined up for a puller. I think I had to use a puller on the last one I removed from our other Lesabre (have 2 '97 Lesabres). It was stuck on fairly good.
I think I could get to the cam sensor from the top, but the crank sensor has the fins that line up with the back side of the damper/balancer. I am changing them because I have a situation where the car is dying intermittantly with no codes. It starts right back up and otherwise runs great. Fuel pressure is good. I have cleaned all connections, grounds, etc. These 2 sensors have never been changed on the car and they seem to be a problem area. The car has about 150,000 on it. Thanks. |
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#5
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Re: Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
This is the type of puller you should use (pic below). The balancer is a "press fit" on the 97. Cam sensor controls fuel injector timing and even with it disconnected, the injectors will fire, however, with only one chance in six that the injector timing will be right. The car may sputter or hesitate upon acceleration, but it will not have a random stall. Crank sensor, wiring to the ICM, ICM terminal, or the ICM could be your problem. I assume all battery connections are clean and tight.
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Knowledge can be communicated, but not wisdom! ![]() ![]() |
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#6
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Re: Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
I have it off. I used a 2 arm puller (large), but had to grind an edge into each foot so it would not slide off. Also, I had to drill a divet into the center of the bolt to stay on. It was on very tight, but did draw and finally pop off. Thanks.
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#7
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The balancer outer & inner rings, have a rubber insert between them. Usually, when a balancer fails, the rubber ring will loose it’s bond and separate from the inner/outer ring. This is the reason we suggest not using a 2/3 jaw puller over the outer ring because it can damage the bond between the two rings and the balancer integrity will be jeopardized.
It sounds like you are making progress, keep us informed!
__________________
Knowledge can be communicated, but not wisdom! ![]() ![]() |
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#8
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Re: Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
HotZ28, Thanks. I have bunch of pullers, but not that one. I can't find some of them at the moment, but I know they are around. It is definitely one I could use! It won't take too much longer now and I'll have it done. I'll clean it all up some, then replace the sensors and put it all back together. I want to inspect the wiring to the crank pos sensor. On my other Lesabre, one wire broke loose right at the connector. The wiring was pulled very tight from the factory. Right at the sharp bend at the connector, one wire corroded and broke through. I had a difficult time locating a salvaged connector. The one I used was not for the crank pos sensor. It was off another part of the car and had to be changed slightly.
The crank sensor may take care of the problem. If not, I'll then focus on the ICM and wiring. It would be nice if there were a code, but none so far. I first cleaned up all of the battery connections, wiring, etc. I also cleaned all of the grounds along each fender. I checked and cleaned the grounds along the sill inside the door on each side. The problem is still occurring though. It generally runs great, but dies infrequently and without any warning which is difficult in traffic. It always starts right back up immediately. Thanks. |
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#9
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Re: Removing Damper to Get to Crank and Cam Sensors
Okay. It is all done and back together. It seems to run well. Right after starting, the check engine light came on. It showed 2 codes: PO306 and
P0135. I cleared the codes and they did not return. All wires looked good. Both sensors went in easily. I cleaned up the back of the balancer and put it all back together. I guess I'll know in a few days if it fixes the dying problem. |
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