Lets talk about ATF and motor oil.

[shadowgerm]

Just got a used 94 Metro, runs great with 128,ooo miles.

I can't find information on how many quarts of motor oil it takes.

I also like to change the ATF myself. What kind AFT does the car take and how much do I need? Is there a filter for the transmission on 94 Metros?

Thanks all!

[RossT]

Do you have the 1.0 or the 1.3 (3 or 4 pistons)?

If you have the 3, your engine takes 3.75 quarts with the filter. Your best weight is 5w30. Some like to use a heavier oil, but GM put out a notice saying not to use anything thicker than Xw30.

If your engine is in good mechanical condition, you can try synthetic oil and extend your drain intervals.

I personally am using regular 5w30 and change it often.

You car uses dexron-3 ATF. But dexron 3 has been upgraded to dex-6 (synthetic), I would use the old stuff. Yes there is a filter and a gasket and a drainplug and it's rather easy to change.

Good luck!

[shadowgerm]

Originally Posted by RossT

Do you have the 1.0 or the 1.3 (3 or 4 pistons)?

If you have the 3, your engine takes 3.75 quarts with the filter. Your best weight is 5w30. Some like to use a heavier oil, but GM put out a notice saying not to use anything thicker than Xw30.

If your engine is in good mechanical condition, you can try synthetic oil and extend your drain intervals.

I personally am using regular 5w30 and change it often.

You car uses dexron-3 ATF. But dexron 3 has been upgraded to dex-6 (synthetic), I would use the old stuff. Yes there is a filter and a gasket and a drainplug and it's rather easy to change.

Good luck!

Thanks, I have the 1.0 liter.
So for the ATF change I have to take the entire bottom plate out? Would a drain and refill be suffice?

[shadowgerm]

Originally Posted by RossT

Do you have the 1.0 or the 1.3 (3 or 4 pistons)?

If you have the 3, your engine takes 3.75 quarts with the filter. Your best weight is 5w30. Some like to use a heavier oil, but GM put out a notice saying not to use anything thicker than Xw30.

If your engine is in good mechanical condition, you can try synthetic oil and extend your drain intervals.

I personally am using regular 5w30 and change it often.

You car uses dexron-3 ATF. But dexron 3 has been upgraded to dex-6 (synthetic), I would use the old stuff. Yes there is a filter and a gasket and a drainplug and it's rather easy to change.

Good luck!

Thanks, I have the 1.0 liter.
So for the ATF change I have to take the entire bottom plate out? Would a drain and refill be suffice? Also what is the capacity of the ATF reservoir?

[citydragon]

Originally Posted by shadowgerm

Thanks, I have the 1.0 liter.
So for the ATF change I have to take the entire bottom plate out? Would a drain and refill be suffice? Also what is the capacity of the ATF reservoir?

If you can get a hold of a Sprint/Geo/Chevrolet 1985 thru 2001 Haynes Manual, it has complete step by step with pictures on this job including torque and thread sealing on bolts, you can't go wrong following this. Plus a lot of other useful things.

[RossT]

The pan only holds 1 quart.

If you don't know the history of your car, I would drain, drop pand and replace filter. If you know for sure that the filter was changed recently (past 2 years) then a couple of drain and fill would be fine.

Taking the pan off and removing the filter is really easy on this car. Also the cork gasket seals nicely and I have never had leak.

If it were my car, I would replace the filter and do a couple of drain and fills. You can also remove one of the transmission cooler lines at the trany and put it into a bucker and start the car and run until the fluid flow slows. Then measure the amount that came out and replace. This would get more fluid. I really like the Chevron dexron fluid, I think it is now labeled as "D3" they can no longer call it dexron-3 cause GM updated the dexron to dex-6. You can buy the Chevron atf at any Checker, Shucks or Kraegen (CSK auto parts store)

edit, dragon above is correct there are 2 or 3 of the pan bolts that have and "X" on them. These require a sealant when you put them back in the same hole they came out of. I use the white liquid teflon from permtex on the threads and have never had a problem.

[hot_sd]

Since you just got the car it would probably be a good idea to change out all the fluid. The best way to do this is via the oil cooler lines as RossT has mentioned. However, only one of the cooler lines carries ATF from the torque converter to the cooler. The other one is the return line to the oil pan – if you remove the wrong one there will be no fluid. The best way to do this is to remove both and do the procedure – fluid will come out of one of the lines. Also don’t just do it unless the fluid flow slows down – start by waiting for a quart ot two to come out then stop the engine. Refill the lost amount and repeat until you’ve exchanged at least 7-8 qts.

Then remove the pan, replace the filter and clean the magnet. Then refill the amount lost due to removing the pan. About 1.5qts as I recall.

Also this would be a good time to flush the oil cooler while the lines are disconnected. Aerosols for this are available.

For reference just for working on the trans the ATSG service/rebuild manual is worth buying in case you want to do any troubleshooting in the future.


http://www.atsg.biz/cgi-bin/shopper....26pricecode%3D

[RossT]

Yep, the line you want to remove is the one closest to the engine. This is the output line from the cooler in the radiator. Put that hose in a bucket and start the engine. You can add atf thru the dipstick as the engine is running and the bucket fills up. Just keep track of how many quarts you add and how many are coming out.