Suburban door LATCH...not handle, rod or panel.

[mishalah]

1996 Suburban: driver door LATCH. How do I get the rods disconnected so I can get it out?

The latch works fine from the outside, but not from the inside. I have the panel off, the inner panel off, and the outer door handle off. The inner rods can be moved with the inner handle, or manually, but even though I see movement in the LATCH it doesn't open by using the inside rods.

How do I disconnect the rods without bending or breaking something? I have tried with the window down (obviously more room to move the metal panel away) and with the window up (to get the outer handle off).

I need SPECIFIC instructions. No one ever seems to give this info..certainly not the crappy Haynes/Chilton manuals, nor on several forums I've visited. Everyone who owns one of these Chevy/GMC trucks built during those 20 years needs this info unless they want to pay a dealer to do it.

Thanks.

[j cAT]

these rods have a clip that attches to the rod , the other end has a hole this is where the rod goes thru..lifting the clip off the rod then rotating 90 deg the clip, the rod should slide off the door latch..

this clip is at the end of the rod ...lift up with flat blade screw driver..

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by j cAT

these rods have a clip that attches to the rod , the other end has a hole this is where the rod goes thru..lifting the clip off the rod then rotating 90 deg the clip, the rod should slide off the door latch..

this clip is at the end of the rod ...lift up with flat blade screw driver..

I'll try that, but the ones that were on the door handle rods were very tight and hard to get off. It looks so simple, but getting a tool in there is not easy. Maybe a bigger hammer (JK).

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by mishalah

I'll try that, but the ones that were on the door handle rods were very tight and hard to get off. It looks so simple, but getting a tool in there is not easy. Maybe a bigger hammer (JK).

spray these ends with a lube product ...then with a good new flat blade screw driver you will be able to lift the clip off the rod...

sometimes a very long needle nose works in those hard to reach areas..

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by j cAT

spray these ends with a lube product ...then with a good new flat blade screw driver you will be able to lift the clip off the rod...

sometimes a very long needle nose works in those hard to reach areas..

With a combination of those tools and a pair of heavy flat front pliers I was able to pry the clips up a little, then use the flat part of the plier face against the tip of the rod, and the other face against the surface of the (now slightly bent) clip to force the rod out.

I did remove the inner handle rod from the inner handle first so I could maneuver the latch into a better position. I actually pulled it through the access panel right below the latch.

Anyway, it's out. Oddly, it seems like it works...but it sure wasn't moving the latching portion so the door could be opened from the inside (no matter how much travel I got from the rods). I hope a new one fixes the problem. I know it's going to be a major beetch getting it all back together.

Thanks for your help.

Sorry I didn't get any pics while I was fighting with the pieces. maybe on the way back in.

BTW: I lowered the window all the way to get more play and clearance from that steel inner panel.

[j cAT]

I now never have trouble with the door locks..Using wd-40/power lube spray with a couple of drops of 30wt non detergent oil every year, these items last forever...

in the north country with ice and snow you also use silicone spray on all the door gaskets ...last thing you need is not being able to get into the vehicle , when the weather gets nasty...

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by j cAT

I now never have trouble with the door locks..Using wd-40/power lube spray with a couple of drops of 30wt non detergent oil every year, these items last forever...

in the north country with ice and snow you also use silicone spray on all the door gaskets ...last thing you need is not being able to get into the vehicle , when the weather gets nasty...

Very true. I'm wondering if cleaning it up and lubing it will make it work again. I can't see anything that looks broken and the spring looks ok....although the inner handle was not returning to it's full inward position unless I pushed it. Even then it would pop back out a little as though the rod was being forced back at it.

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by j cAT

I now never have trouble with the door locks..Using wd-40/power lube spray with a couple of drops of 30wt non detergent oil every year, these items last forever...

in the north country with ice and snow you also use silicone spray on all the door gaskets ...last thing you need is not being able to get into the vehicle , when the weather gets nasty...

Very true. I'm wondering if cleaning it up and lubing it will make it work again. I can't see anything that looks broken and the spring looks ok....although the inner handle was not returning to it's full inward position unless I pushed it. Even then it would pop back out a little as though the rod was being forced back at it.

Now, if I can get my P0300 random misfire resolved...

[mishalah]

Update:

I cleaned and lubed the latch mechanism (several times) and it seems to work as it should. All the rod connections will activate their respective levers and those will activate their respective alter-direction levers. From the outside handle lever the spring loaded "cam" will push the latch release part past the latching piece, and it will open the door (simulated). From the innner handle rod lever it will push the "cam" far enough to push the latch release piece out of the way of the latching piece. It is, however, very, very stiff.

I attached the inner rod to see how much travel it requires....only about 3/8" horizontally to move the lever enough to move the "cam" and release the latch. The inner handle actually looks solid, and it has much more travel ability than what is required to move the latch lever 3/8". The inner handle stuck out a little before I started this adventure, but would move fully inward by pulling the rod toward the latch. Ie, the handle doesn't seem to be the problem because it can move fully. I put pressure on the handle lever on the inside while I moved the handle to see if it bent or "gave way". It didn't. So, maybe the handle is ok (of course..that's the cheapest part of the mix).

I cleaned and inspected the inner rod. Seems ok, but I have no way of knowing just how long it should really be due to the numerous bends. I also have no way of knowing if it is "giving way" (flexing?) too much to force proper movement of the latch lever(s). I guess I'll have to find a new one to compare it with.

Back to the latch: Since I don't know how stiff this mechanism is supposed to be without being installed and set up properly I guess I'll have to find a new one of these (probably at a dealer since no one local seems to have new ones) and play with it. I have heard of sloppy or worn out springs, but this does not seem to be the problem since it takes a lot of pressure to move the parts by hand. Maybe too much pressure. BUT.....BUT...if it so stiff and pushes back so hard against manual operation, why doesn't it push the inner rod back far enough to fully close the inner handle??????

The outer handle worked and returned to its position perfectly (at least it did before I got hold of and took it out). Soooooo..the outer handle does everything correct, but the inner portion of the mechanism resisted complete opening operation...even though they appear to work with sufficient pressure manually. Maybe it is that dang rod. I should be so lucky!

Suggestions?????

[j cAT]

the door latches work hard with the door closed and open ? if it is hard only when the door is closed this is usually the door pins/bushings worn..

or if you are lucky you can adjust the post pin..

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by j cAT

the door latches work hard with the door closed and open ? if it is hard only when the door is closed this is usually the door pins/bushings worn..

or if you are lucky you can adjust the post pin..

I took the latch to the local dealer and compared it to his new (made in Mexico) latch. It was actually stiffer in hand operation, but the mechanism seemed to work exactly the same. Parts guy did point out a bit of rubbing on my latch...indicating possible hinge bushing wear. I tried moving the door up and down at various positions from a few inches open to full open. It didn't show any movement or looseness.

I didn't notice whether the handles were any harder to operate in the closed position than while open, though. It would seem like most doors would do that due to the type of mechanism and friction. Parts guy suggested starting with the inner handle, but as I said, it does have full travel at the inner lever. The fact that the rod doesn't return the handle to it's fully closed position makes me again suspect the latch. It's almost like there should be an adjustment of the rod position. But that would be too easy.

[j cAT]

the door locks on the body post stationary pin...with a torx male you can loosen and adjust the stationary body pin to accept the door latch correctly...ya it can also be the door hinge bushings lift up on the door when the door is almost touching the vehicle in the closed position..the bushings normally wear unevenly as most very large people will use the door as a lift to exit the vehicle..

[mishalah]

FYI:

I cleaned and lubed everything in the handle to latch mechanism, and the window regulator components, put it all back together, and it works "good". So far.

I see that the outside door handle is cracked at the upper right corner where the lift mechanism/boss hits the handle frame. Pot metal. So, I'll take it easy with the opening lift until I can get a new handle.

I repeat: for a tough truck this thing has far too many weak parts. (Also had to replace the tranny "neutral" shift switch because the connections were crumbling and the shifter seal was cracked and leaking. BTW: don't let anyone tell you that the tranny must be disassembled to replace that seal. It can easily be done by dropping the pan (a good time to do a fluid/filter change anyway). Switch cost $35; seal was $6. Knowing it's not leaking or going to break down = priceless.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by mishalah

FYI:

I cleaned and lubed everything in the handle to latch mechanism, and the window regulator components, put it all back together, and it works "good". So far.

I see that the outside door handle is cracked at the upper right corner where the lift mechanism/boss hits the handle frame. Pot metal. So, I'll take it easy with the opening lift until I can get a new handle.

I repeat: for a tough truck this thing has far too many weak parts. (Also had to replace the tranny "neutral" shift switch because the connections were crumbling and the shifter seal was cracked and leaking. BTW: don't let anyone tell you that the tranny must be disassembled to replace that seal. It can easily be done by dropping the pan (a good time to do a fluid/filter change anyway). Switch cost $35; seal was $6. Knowing it's not leaking or going to break down = priceless.

lubing these door latches every year from day one will get this door issue not to be a concern..where you are I bet the doors and other parts get a lot of dust and grit in there so cleaning then when dry spray with a good lube should keep everything operating easy ..good luck ..

[mishalah]

I hope this will be the last of this. The handle/latch worked ok, then wouldn't release. I could see the handle wasn't travelling far enough so I notched the escutcheon at the back. Worked great for about 1 day...then handle broke completely in 2 parts.

OK....so this does confirm that the pot metal handle was cracked all along, and all the other work was a waste of time (except lubing). Anyway, I installed the new handle I had already purchased and it works great....drilled out the one rivet and replaced it with a bolt/nut. The rest clips on. It works fine, but it still feels very stiff.

We'll see.........