Beginners questions

[debian4life]

I am very new to vehicle repair. I went to school for computers so auto repair is very new to me as I have always paid the Ford Dealership to do my repairs. I now have two kids and one has cystic fibrosis so I can not afford to pay the dealer to do an IMRC repair, fix the dome light-door ajar issue, repair a broken window motor on the passenger side or some of the other issues.

My actual question is what basic tools and specialty tools should I get to do these repairs? I have read a lot of the valuable information on here and want to try these repairs. Does anyone have any other recommendations as to what I should try or not try?

Thanks in advance for the help

[LeSabre97mint]

Hello

Well....I would do all of the repairs....but I've been getting my hands dirty for about 30 years.

Do you have a place to work? Do you have the tools, or the willingness to invest in them. Do you own a good repair manual? Do you have friends that can help out when you get in a bind? Are you the kind of person who can figure things out, or do you have to be told? I'm not trying to be mean, or rude by asking these questions. I feel these are some of the things one should take into account.

There are things to take into account when working on a vehical. Know what's wrong, know how to take it apart, and to get it back together without too many extra parts. (a slight joke)

Some tools that you should get: torque wrench, socket set (both inch and metric, 3/8 and 1/2 in drive) floor jack and jack stands. Some autopart stores, such as AutoZone, "rent" tools. Basicly you buy them and they allow you to return them for a full refund.

I hope this gives you a glimps of what you might be getting into.

I say go for it.....

Regards

Dan

[Blue Bowtie]

Sorry to hear of your difficulties. I'm guessing you've growing accustomed to making the best of an otherwise less-than-ideal situation. We'll try to help as much as possible. If you have some technical ability, and a little diagnostic aptitude, the repairs are not difficult.

A good start is a decent basic tool kit. Specialty tools you might need for a power window regulator replacement might be a large rivet setter and trim panel clip removal tool.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...174&pricetype=

http://www.setools.com/dpt.shtml

For the door jamb switch and just about any other electrcal diagnosis (including PC power supplies, patch cable testing, and various other computer uses) a decent digital multimeter is a useful tool.

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fl...keUnitedStates

A service manual can be an invaulable aid in disassembly, assembly, troubleshooting, and general repair. Even a $15 Haynes manual has some helpful tips and information.

[DRW1000]

I have to agree with the above two responses in that if you have a fairly good mechanical aptitude and are willing then you can probably do most of your own repairs. I have been working on cars for about 30 years and I have made some embarassing mistakes. One time I was replacing a timing belt that had snapped (luckily in my driveway). I took the front cover and a few other obstructions off only to discover that I could not put the new one on without undoing the motor mounts and jacking up the engine. I had to get it towed to a repair shop partially disaembled to get them to complete. I was still ahead of the game though (or at least no too much further behind).

In any event a good assortment of tools as mentioned above including a multimeter and a good socket set. I would suggest you consider a code reader too. I usually treat myself to a tool whenever I do a repair. The last thing I bought was a compressor and air ratchet. (Of course not really a nessessity but nice to have). A helpful and knowledgable neighbour can be a huge asset to "bounce" ideas off of or perhaps to borrow a tool you do not have.

I think the most important tool is knowledge and this forum. Read up on the job before you begin to see what is involved. Perhaps start with some simpler tasks such as fluid changes, spark plugs and then move on to brakes etc. If you are not afraid to get your hands dirty I will bet you may actually start to enjoy it and you can't beat the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.

[debian4life]

Thanks for the great information! I appreciate all the feedback and help!

[wiswind]

The IMRC actuators are PRICEY.....usually one of them fails (if you have the vaccum powered ones) and leaks...causing the other one to not get the vaccum that it needs.

I saw the vaccum actuators on www.rockauto.com for about $168 each.
Also, check http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214072
which is Millennium FORD in Seattle that has some good web prices.

To determine which IMRC is bad.....you can disconnect one, plug the line....and see if the one that is still connected pulls in when the engine is running. If not......plug the 1st one in....and unplug the other one....and plug that line.....and see if the connected one pulls in.

Another thing that "can" happen, is carbon or crap build up on the "butterflies" inside the lower intake manifold.

There is a link at in my signature that will show the IMRC butterflies on my '96....newer years (newer than 1998) will look a bit different, but the principle is the same.

I have a subscription to Alldatadiy, which is about $25 for the first year...and about $15 each year thereafter. This give you the TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) for your year.
Also, much repair information is available at www.autozone.com under the vehicle specific repair guides.

Dome light staying on is usually caused by a door sensor not making good contact.....many posts about that.....

You can do a search within this windstar "room" and find many of the issues that come up.

Also.....if you are doing work yourself....do some research on the correct fluids for your year of windstar.
Change that tranny fluid AT LEAST every 30K miles..... 21K for "severe" service.

Finally, I would ask around, and find a good independent shop near you......I just did that. You can get some great service from them.

[debian4life]

Thanks wiswind! I have learned so much from this forum so far and the best part is that these forums are much cheaper than a Ford repair center:-).

[OldFaithful]

I have, through the years, generally done my own mechanical work on my automobiles and everything else. I have always spent less money to complete the repairs even purchasing a special tool or two along the way. Now, you can often rent those special tools which makes the cost more reasonable yet. I have basic ratchet sets of 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" drive both US Standard and Metric along with an assortment of screwdrivers, files, wood chisels, and a set of combination open end and end wrenches in both US Standard and Metric. I didn't buy them all at once but a few at a time as I needed them.

A set of torx fittings for the 1/4" drive set makes them indispensible and for the larger torx the 3/8" drive works well. The wood chisels will shave the gasket material and sealants from the surfaces, particularly with steel serfaces. I still use them on the aluminum surfaces but I use them very carefully for it is very easy to gouge the aluminum. I use 600 or 1200 wet or dry paper wet with penitrating oil to clean many difficult areas. That penitrating oil seems to soak through stuff that lacquor thinner or acitone will not loosen for you.

I use steel wool soap pads to clean up aluminum parts IF I can remove them and make sure that there is not any steel wool remaining when I reassemble. Do not use plain steel wool on aluminum because it will cut right into the soft aluminum but the steel wool with soap will shine up that aluminum and not remove the metal and that idea comes from model gas engines for model planes or cars, the parts of which are almost all aluminum and close tolerances are a must.

I use plastic baggies to contain fasteners as I dissemble and I tape that baggie to the removed part and lay them both aside until I need them to reassemble. I use masking tape to mark different size fasteners coming off the same part and that really saves time on reassembly.

And I usually take the car to a high pressure wand car wash, put the tire cleaner on the engine oily or greasy areas and particularly the area that I intend to work on, then power wash with soap and then rinse with plain water. I routinely do this in the spring after salt season and in the fall after leaf season to all of my automobile engines. They are cleaner to work on and run cooler and my masking tape will usually stick to the parts.

I used to have to cover the distributors with a baggie to do the wash and even then have to pull the distributer cap off and dry it out with a dry towel but now a days with the electronic ignitions, I have not encountered any problems. I spray off the battery as well but I take care not to put the direct force of the sprayer at the cell filler caps so as to not force non distilled water or solution into the cells.

A good manual is always helpful even though I may modify the procedure to better suit the conditions at the time. A little time spent with a manual planning out the repair, where you will put spare parts until you reassemble, how you will clean them and with what always saves time and reading forums like this one, taking advantage of all the experence of those who have already traveled the road that you are about to embark on is invaluable and save much time and money.

I usually use latex gloves and change them right after I have used a thinner to clean parts. No question is stupid and given a specific job, we are all beginners from time to time.

Good luck and enjoy.

Jim

[Blue Bowtie]

Old Faithful has excellent tips and procedural aids, and he's right about being a beginner. Every time something new comes along, we're all "noobs" for a while. Anyone undertaking this kind of endeavor today actually has it so much easier than previous generations. Even though systems are becoming more complex, they are still only individual systems. The information that we used to have to acquire through service bulletins, scheduled training, publications, and word-of-mouth is usually available in near real-time because of the internet. The "learning lag" in the past could be a year or more, even for training factory technicians. Printed material, film strips, travelling training specialists, and later even video tapes could not possibly be as current as the nearly instantaneous availability of information that exists today.

These discussion fora (forums?) are also a great boon to those troubleshooting and repairing, since there are many things that never make it to publications. GM would never issue a service bulletin stating just how weak some of their purchased sun shells were in 4L60 transmissions. Honda would never publish anything about the hoardes of electrical problems they suffer. Daimler would never publish anything about how weak the front ends of those "tough" Ram pickups really are. They only do so when forced by the NHTSA under threat of non-voluntary recall. Anything else would be an admission of a potential warranty problem that they'd rather ignore. Even factory training doesn't cover these issues. But those kinds of things are widely available and common knowledge among these message boards.

[road_rascal]

When I first met my girlfriend in 1990 (now wife of 11 years) she drove a ratty old 1981 Plymouth Reliant with the (in)famous 2.6 Mitsu. I didn't know squat about auto repair. Within a year I was changing plugs, water pumps, brakes, fuel pumps, shocks, exhaust (never, ever will I do that again), etc. The internet wasn't widespread back then, but today that's a huge resource for DIY's. Take your time, read the repair books a few times, and you'll do just fine .

[debian4life]

Thanks for all the information and encouragement. I am looking forward to trying my first repair. I am going to attempt the infamous IMRC replacement. My only fear is what to do if i cannot finish the repair or if it is not done properly. I would hate to think I cost myself more money by doing it wrong than getting a repair shop to do it for me. Oh well I gotta start somewhere and that CEL is driving me crazy! Thanks again everyone!!! I will let you know how I do on the IMRC's.

[debian4life]

Good morning,

I knoiw this is a long time since I requested info on the IMRC repair, but after many bouts of pneumonia with my son and hip surgeries on myself I finally completed the IMRC repair and it went smooth. I used to be very scared of working on my cars, but after reading all the information on here I am now more confident to work on my vehicles. So far I have fixed on my Windstar the IMRC's, rear A/C issue, brake problems and on my Escort I have tackled a tune up, brakes, and an Idle air repair. I know these are simple repairs, but I am really proud of what I have learned. I now read this site every day and am starting to feel ready for more complex issues coming up.

Thanks again!

[Ed_Strong]

Most people get intimidated by car repairs... But you're on the right track. As long as you do a good research, get a good Repair Manual or CD to follow step by step procedures and get the right tools (right tool for the right job) you can do anything along the lines of back yard mechanic with limited acces to specialty tools and equipment.
I've done all kinds of repairs since I owned my first car when I was 19 years old and now on my 30s I can tell you I must have saved between $10 to $15K (maybe more) in car repairs!
A word of advice... Don't go out and spend all your money on tools you won't use. Instead you can loan them from AutoZone if you have one close by and the tool is expensive and will only be used for just one job or you can buy them as you need them for the repair you'll be performing at the time. That's one of the perks I love, I get to keep the tools and my money from the repair job.
And of course you can always stop here for advise and directions on whatever job you'll want to tackle, big or small.
Good health to you and your family and happy repairs!