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#1 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Louisville, Kentucky
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Hello everyone!
I've 1996 GRAND PRIX, 220,000 miles with a 3.1 (3100 engine). I'm trying to give this thing a tune-up for it kept cutting off on me last weekend. I was lucky to make it home in it. It died on me right in front of my driveway. Me and the wife had to pull it into the yard with SUV truck and cable. The engine was spinning but wasn't firing from what I could tell. I pulled a couple of spark plugs, attached it to a spark plug wire to verify whether or not it was firing. There was no firing from either plug nor was there current at the ignition coil. I had various folks telling me what the problem could be. Some say the timing chain had broke (wrong) due to the extremely high miles. Others say the ignition coil was faulty (wrong again). I had Auto Zone test the ignition module/coil packs. They all checked out fine. Another reason was faulty fuel pump (wrong). The fuel pump was replaced like a year/half ago. The problem was a corroded/rusted spark plug wire at the ignition coil. I've decided to do a complete tune-up. I need to know if anyone can tell me how to access the spark plugs on the rear side of the engine. I rotated the engine forward as instructed in the Haynes manual for this type vehicle but I still wasn't able to get to the spark plugs due to not enough space in between the engine/firewall or chasis (whatever it's referred to as). The last thing I want to do is take it to a shop that charges $150+ for a tune-up. I would appreciate any tips on how to access the rear spark plugs so I can get back on the road with confidence ). Thanks very much for your time! |
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#2 | |
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AF Newbie
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
how are ya, ok well i just did mine in my car, u unhook the motor mounts the 2 on the front of the engine, just pull the bolts out. Then push the car backwards when they are unhooked. The motor will roll forward when the car is pushed and you can use a block of wood, just have someone else throw it behind the wheel. Just becareful not to push so hard to stretch things...hoses...wires ect.....good luck and use only ac delco plugs with the proper gap and replace the wires if they are not newer.......
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#3 | |
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Doing just fine sir! I will give it another shot to see what happens. I will let you know the outcome. Thanks for responding!
QUOTE=milladog]how are ya, ok well i just did mine in my car, u unhook the motor mounts the 2 on the front of the engine, just pull the bolts out. Then push the car backwards when they are unhooked. The motor will roll forward when the car is pushed and you can use a block of wood, just have someone else throw it behind the wheel. Just becareful not to push so hard to stretch things...hoses...wires ect.....good luck and use only ac delco plugs with the proper gap and replace the wires if they are not newer....... [/quote] |
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#4 | |
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AF Regular
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
It is real easy on a 3.8 and yours should be easy too.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=638220
__________________
1997 Grand Prix SE, 3.8 (L36), 4T60-E (auto) M13 2002 Grand AM SE1, 3.4 (LA1), 4T45-E (auto) MN5 2003 Silverado LS, 5.3 (LM7), 4L60-E (auto) M30 1988 Ford Bronco EB 5.0 (AOD) manual BW1356 & hubs |
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#5 | ||
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
I have a 3.1 not a 3.8.
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#6 | |
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
It is real easy on a 3.8 and so a 3.1 should be easy too.
(I have never done it to a 3.1)
__________________
1997 Grand Prix SE, 3.8 (L36), 4T60-E (auto) M13 2002 Grand AM SE1, 3.4 (LA1), 4T45-E (auto) MN5 2003 Silverado LS, 5.3 (LM7), 4L60-E (auto) M30 1988 Ford Bronco EB 5.0 (AOD) manual BW1356 & hubs |
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#7 | ||
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
It's isn't easy at all.
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#8 | |
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In God We Trust
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
The best you can do is to rock the motor forward. Have someone push it backwards, and then go push the E-brake to hold it. Or else use a ratchet strap between a motor mount and the radiator core support to pull the motor forward. Then get a sparkplug socket and about a 5 inch extension. I did my girlfriends plugs in her grand prix SE in about a half hour without even moving the motor forward. Mine on the lumina was much worse. Moved the motor forward, but still took quite a while with all the air pump junk in the way. Got it done though. Be sure to be carefull not to cross thread a plug.
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-2000 Grand Prix GTP 170,000mi (daily driver) -2000 Olds Alero 100,000mi (soon to be DD with gas at $3.45/gal) -1997 Chev K1500 4x4 115,000mi (Natalie's truck [nans_grandprix]) AF "2.0" Community Guidelines Conservative Victory 2012!!! "I'll Keep my Guns, Freedom, and Money. You can Keep the Change!" ----->>>>> Did You Know? <<<<<----- |
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#9 | ||
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Thanks for responding! I finally was succcessful at removing the plugs/wires on my Grand Prix SE. I can't believe you did it without moving the engine forward. You must be very experienced. I unmounted the torque struts or upper motor mounts (whatever they are called), rotated the engine forward, had the wife insert a couple of 1 foot pieces of two by four behind the alternator which held the engine forward and allowed me access to the plugs. I removed the coil packs and some type of harness that sits behind the coil pack to get better access to the plugs. I saved myself over a $130 so I'm happy with the outcome. Next time, I know exactly how to do it. It probably took me 2 hours or so due to inexperience
). My Grand Prix was firing at all prior to replacing the wires/plugs. It started right up after I installed the new wires/plugs! I hope this takes care of the firing problem that I have been dealing with for the last two weeks. It was like one day it fires and the next day, it just sits there crank crank crank but doesn't start.Take care! Quote:
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#10 | ||
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Hello,
I finally was succcessful at removing the plugs/wires on my Grand Prix SE. I unmounted the torque struts or upper motor mounts (whatever they are called), rotated the engine forward, had the wife insert a couple of 1 foot pieces of two by four behind the alternator which held the engine forward and allowed me access to the plugs. I removed the coil packs and some type of harness that sits behind the coil pack to get better access to the plugs. I saved myself over a $130 so I'm happy with the outcome. Next time, I know exactly how to do it. It probably took me 2 hours or so due to inexperience ). My Grand Prix wasn't firing at all prior to replacing the wires/plugs. It started right up after I installed the new wires/plugs! I hope this takes care of the firing problem that I have been dealing with for the last two weeks. It was like one day it fires and the next day, it just sits there crank crank crank but doesn't start.Take care! Quote:
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#11 | |
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
I just changed my plugs in my 92 3.1.. I didn't rock or rotate the engine, I just removed my alternator and with a few choice words (mainly while trying to remove the wires which I replaced) ,a little reaching, all my plugs and wires were changed in about an hour
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#12 | ||
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AF Newbie
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
Thanks for the info! I didn't think of removing the alternator! Maybe I will try that the next time around
). How much clearance did you have? If I can do it without removing the coil packs/other parts in the rear area, I will definitely give it a shot next time around. I don't think I will buy another vehicle with engine sitting sideways. It's just too big of a headache to work on them. Quote:
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#13 | |
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
Hey hillre, I just did the plug/wire nuckle buster last month I didn't rock the motor over none neither just used a 12" extension to spark plug socket, I did kneel on the frame infront of the radiator to reach in/brace myself. Hey a 1976 chevy Monza was worse, those motors had to be hoisted off the mounts to reach the plugs!
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#14 | ||
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AF Newbie
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
Hello, how is it going? You must be very experienced. I don't think I could have been successful if I didn't rotate the engine. I wasn't able to see the plugs at all until I rotated the engine. However, the bottom line is that I did replace them and avoided taken the vehicle to a local rip-off shop who charges $150+ for tune-ups. I haven't had anymore problems with engine starting and there are no misfiring. It's running good as new
)). Thanks for sharing and responding! Later!Quote:
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#15 | |
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AF Newbie
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Re: Removal of Spark Plugs on Rear Side of Engine
Just did mine last weekend. Here's how I did it. You do not need to rock the engine remove mounts or any of that. Get yourself a small pivot extension, then put the plug socket on the plug first. Then put the extension into the socket, then the wrench on. works everytime. I tried slipping the whole thing in but it makes it way harder. Give it a try!
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