2001 Regal LS - no dash, or tail lights

[ez2plz]

Recently purchased a 2001 Regal LS (loaded). The Dash lights and tail lights have quit working (at the same time). All fuses are in good shape.

After reading through 45 pages of this forum, I've come to the conclusion that if the battery connections and charging system are in good shape, then the next best possibility is the ignition module.

I have cut and pasted instructions from the fourm as to how to replace the module and harness. I find the instructions very good and complete.

I have two questions.

1. Will removing the ignition modual cause me any problems with the key interlock system? In other words am I going to have problems getting the key to send the right code after re-installing a new module and putting the key cylinder back in place.

2. Maybe more important. Am I on the right track? If so is it very hard to clean the contacts in the module rather than buying a new one, and would you recommend doing this.

Great forum people!!!!!
Thanks
Jim

[BNaylor]

It sounds like you are on the right track to me. You could troubleshooot with a DMM further and prove for sure it is the ignition switch.

The key cylinder used for the Passkey VATS is separate from the ignition switch and harness assembly so no reprogramming or key relearn is needed.

If you check our old posts out you will see a few of us have removed the ignition switch and cleaned the contacts but that is up to you. The part only costs around $100-$125 at the GM dealer. Good luck!

[Bassasasin]

I have 2000 wiring but not 2001...
Suprised its not the 15amp or the 7.5 amp fuse in the IP fuse block.
Gee you type like your in Omaha (now). LoL.

Good Luck. .

[ez2plz]

Now I am begining to second guess myself. I've been reading about the multifunction switch and wonder if that might be the problem. Most of the problems with that switch refer to brake lights though. I have good turn signals and brake lights. Only the dash lights and tailights won't come on.

By the way I've found a new Delco ignition switch online for $62.00.

[jdl]

My information shows, the instrument lamps and tail lamps get their voltage through the headlamp switch. That is the circuit, you need to check. I'm not saying the switch is faulty, but you need to check the circuits coming and going.

Just to add, there should be a brown/white wire that carries voltage to the tail lamps, with the headlamp switch turned on, that wire should be hot, if it isn't, that leads you to a 15 amp fuse in the instrument panel fuse block, if the fuse is ok, check that one of the terminals that the fuse plugs into, is hot. If it isn't, that will lead you to the headlamp switch. That doesn't mean the headlamp switch is faulty, you'll have to check for voltage going to the switch. If the other circuits that operate off the headlamp switch are functioning, then the switch is getting voltage.

[BNaylor]

I agree. He needs to check the voltage at the PARK LP fuse (20 amp) socket. That way he can rule out battery supply (hot at all times) and wiring leading up to. The Regal FSM wiring shows no connection with the multifunction switch based on his symptoms from what I can see. Headlamp control switch yes. The same switch provides the 12 volts to the IP lamps and dimmer control for the Instrument Panel and climate control, radio and center console background lighting. The taillights are part of the park light circuits.

The PARK LP fuse is located in the engine compartment fuse box.

Also, the original poster needs to clarify whether it is just an IP background lighting problem or are all lamps such as warning/idiot out at ignition to on.

[ez2plz]

Well I have rechecked the 20 amp fuse (LP - #34) in the underhood fusebox. All is well. Next was the headlight switch itself. Thats where I ran into a problem.

I took off the cover plate on the end of the dash and the switch is right there in plain sight. Next question.

You guys are helpful beyond explaination. Is there a procedure to taking out this switch posted somewhere on this site or elsewhere on the net? Before I go through a bunch of needless removal of dash pieces and such I thought I would ask.

Thanks for the great help

Jim

[BNaylor]

1) Open driver's door
2) Remove panel on side of dash
3) Remove 2 screws holding switch assembly
4) Remove electrical connector
5) Remove and replace switch assembly

Thats it.

[ez2plz]

Ha Ha --- Well I guess it asked for that!!! I found a picture of the switch assembly on the net and realized I asked a silly question when I saw the bracket attached to the switch.

Thanks a lot for the help. I'll be replacing the switch and I think that will do it.

Jim

[ez2plz]

We got the lights working. It was a $70.00 mistake but at least they are working.

I guess I never mentioned that the Regal I've been posting about was my son's car and some misinformation by him lead to the mistake. I had asked him if he had any blown fuses and had checked the fuses in the underhood box. I never checked the fuses in the interior box because he assured me that he had pulled "every fuse" in the box and checked them. He also never told me that he had replaced two taillight bulbs when he first got the car two months ago and that the bulbs he had replaced showed signs of corrosion.

After installing the new light switch the problem still remained. He told me that the 7.5 amp fuse in the interior box for the dash lights, was not getting any juice and the fuse was still good so there must be a broken wire somewhere. That was the point that I took it upon myself to have a look at the interior fuse box. There is a 15 amp fuse there for the taillights and that fuse was blown. It seems that the 15 amp fuse must feed (in part) the 7.5 amp fuse marked for the dash lights.

So after removing the whole taillight assembly and finding the same two bulbs rusting in their sockets the mystery was solved. It seems that GM has not done a very good job of keeping water out of that massive taillight box. We will monitor the bulbs for rust and if needed we will have to apply some silicone sealent to the top of the box where the black plastic meets the red plastic across the top of the box. Anyway the problem was fixed with two new bulbs, some dielectric grease, and a new fuse. I sure wish he had told me about those rusted sockets in the begining of this thing.

Thanks for all your help. I've learned a lot more about Regal problems from all the reading on this forum and will be on the watch for some of the other problems he might run into.

Jim

[kmrahe]

I have a 2000 GS. Leaks in the taillight housing of these cars seem quite widespread. I see lots of them on the road with one or more taillight bulbs burned out, mostly on the left side, most likely for the same reason. I'm still trying to figure out where/how the leak is occurring. The only thing I've been able to find is an engineered vent behind a little rubber cover, of which there is one near the backup light bulb on either side of the housing. These look pretty well protected, though, so I'm thinking the the water is actually coming in somewhere else. I only wish I had noticed the problem before the car went out of warranty!

Kevin

[ez2plz]

Originally Posted by kmrahe

I have a 2000 GS. Leaks in the taillight housing of these cars seem quite widespread. I see lots of them on the road with one or more taillight bulbs burned out, mostly on the left side, most likely for the same reason. I'm still trying to figure out where/how the leak is occurring. The only thing I've been able to find is an engineered vent behind a little rubber cover, of which there is one near the backup light bulb on either side of the housing. These look pretty well protected, though, so I'm thinking the the water is actually coming in somewhere else. I only wish I had noticed the problem before the car went out of warranty!

Kevin

I think I know where the water comes from. At the top of the housing where the red plastic meets the black back of the housing there is a thin rubber strip that is suspose to ride against the back of the trunk lid and make an attempt to form a trough where the water can run off either side of the lid.

I think that the joint between the red plastic and the black housing is allowing water inside of the housing. If I keep having problems with the lights corroding and blowing fuses, I may attempt to use a silicone type sealer at that joint.

Thanks
Jim

[kmrahe]

I sealed the top of the taillight housing with silicone (actually just the left 1/2 of it), and it seems to have taken care of the water intrusion problem.

Replacing the corroded lamp sockets was a whole other matter, though. I checked a couple of the chain auto parts stores (NAPA and Advanced Auto), but apparently none of them carry the exact replacement for these sockets, of which there are 6 in this car (4 for tail lights, 2 for license plate illumination). I know that parts are usually on the expensive side when you get them through a dealer. I figured $8 would be over-priced, though I was prepared to pay as much as $10-12 each (I figure they can't cost more than about 75 cents to manufacture). What I wasn't prepared for was a price of $44.95 each. I asked if that was for the whole harness with all the sockets, and the guy looking them up said that was for just one socket, and that there were 6 of them. He said they didn't have any in stock, and as I laughed my way out I said it didn't matter because they wouldn't sell me any at that price anyway.

Thankfully, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I found a serviceable part at NAPA that, while not an exact replacement, will work, and for a whole lot less money (<$5 each). Their stock/part # is LS6467. If you get one, simply trim off the corners of the 2 shorter tabs, effectively eliminating them (the OEM parts only have 2 tabs). The remaining long tabs will go into the housing just fine, though you may have to push fairly hard to get them in far enough to twist them into their final position, which should have the wires exiting vertically.

It's bad enough that GM's messup in the design/assembly department caused this problem in the first place. But to then turn the replacement parts into a cash cow is pretty awful lame. Isn't this a safety issue? There ought to be a recall IMHO.

[ez2plz]

Sounds like you figured out the new socket problem. I haven't sealed the top of the housing yet but I think I might now that I know what the sockets cost -- geesh!!!!