Timing chain replacement on Quad 4

[01EB5.0]

How do you even manage to get to the timing chain on the 95 Quad 4 motor? The Haynes manual makes it look easy but i have the engine in the car still. Does it need to be removed to complete this service? Thanks!

[xeroinfinity]

It will all come off from the pass side.
Might pull the wheel off to acess things easier.

If you havent done anything like this before,
take notes or pictures.
Label wires and bolts & nuts so it all gets back together correctly.

and Good Luck

[gmack221]

It can be done in the car ... jack up the passanger side of the car & put it on a jack stand, take that tire off, remove inner fender. On the other side of the motor hook a ratchet strap to the motor mount, then hook to a solid area of the radiator support, just snug it up the keep the motor from tipping backwards. Now put a floor jack under the passanger side lower motor mount (looks like an 8, commonly called a dog bone), now you have the motor supported so you can remove the passanger side upper motor mount, serpentine belt, set the motor to top dead center, pull the crankshaft balancer & the cover for the timing chain. Change the timing chain & re-install in the reverse order.

Also on a side note if you haven't changed the water pump lately you should do it ... and since your already in there ... get a dealer thermostat also ...

also a 1/4" ratchet works well on the bolts holding the timing chain cover on.

did you have a chain let go on your? how do you know it need replaced?

If its your first time doing this one I'd suggest keeping 6 - 8 hrs open in your schedule.

[01EB5.0]

Originally Posted by gmack221

It can be done in the car ... jack up the passanger side of the car & put it on a jack stand, take that tire off, remove inner fender. On the other side of the motor hook a ratchet strap to the motor mount, then hook to a solid area of the radiator support, just snug it up the keep the motor from tipping backwards. Now put a floor jack under the passanger side lower motor mount (looks like an 8, commonly called a dog bone), now you have the motor supported so you can remove the passanger side upper motor mount, serpentine belt, set the motor to top dead center, pull the crankshaft balancer & the cover for the timing chain. Change the timing chain & re-install in the reverse order.

Also on a side note if you haven't changed the water pump lately you should do it ... and since your already in there ... get a dealer thermostat also ...

also a 1/4" ratchet works well on the bolts holding the timing chain cover on.

did you have a chain let go on your? how do you know it need replaced?

If its your first time doing this one I'd suggest keeping 6 - 8 hrs open in your schedule.

Well, i'm aiming for the head gasket and in order to get there i gather the chain has to be removed. The engine has a bad oil leak on the back near the thermostat. The oil has a lot of coolant in it so I know something is blown. The engine runs good an dhas good compression, it just leaks bad. No oil is in the coolant. I was quoted $1500 for the repair by some shops and am trying to help out a frien dwho just lost his job. It is his car and i am going to do the job for him. Any help to get to the head gasket would be great.

[gmack221]

well your working you way in the right direction ...

before you take off the timing chain its self break the bolts loose that hold the timing chain gears on, then remove the chain, then the timing chain backing plate, then the cam housings (if your carefull you remove the housings with the cams & lifters in them, there's no need to mess with them if you can get them off clean), then remove the intake & exhaust (pull fuel rail w/ injectors in rail), plastic housing for radiator hose, & head. under the head in the block on the passanger side rear is a hole that supplies oil to the lifters, there is a check ball in there that should be cleaned or replaced (dealer part), this check ball keeps the oil from draining back to the pan when motor isn't running, it builds up with gunk. best way I know to remove it is with a drill bit, but your going to need a new one if you do it that way.

hopefull he hasn't ran it too long with coolant in the oil, rod bearings are known to go out #2 cylinder on this motor ... might be worth taking the time to check ... if its a good friend. that gets complicated though ... or you can always fix the head gasket & hope for the best. If your going to go thru all that and have an engine lift & stand it would be easier to pull the motor, more time but easier.