How difficult to install window regulator (manual) in my '98?

Greg M · #1 02-12-2007, 07:58 PM

My driver's side window has gotten worse over the last year or so. First, it started leaning forward in the door and got out of the track, which made it catch over the rubber trim on the outside of the door, which pushed it forward more and kept it out of track. Now it has gotten so bad that I have to hold the window with one hand while cranking with the other just to get it up--and it's in the 30s out there now!

I've been reading and researching and have come to the conclusion that it's the regulator that needs changing. The crossbars in the regulator are pretty flimsy really, and look loose when rolling the window up. So I'm considering buying the regulator and installing myself.

But I want to ask you guys a couple of questions first:

1. It looks like a couple of nuts and 3 rivets are holding the regulator on. If I put a new one in, I can handle the nuts of course, but those are some heavy duty rivets. Is this something I would have to outsource? A body shop for instance?

2. The clips that hold the window to the regulator appear to use some sort of epoxy and a rivet to hold it. Is the epoxy a special kind, and if so, where could I find it?

3. Where would be the best place to get a quality replacement regulator for a fair price?

crazy Jim · #2 02-12-2007, 08:41 PM

*Drill the rivets out and replace them with nut and bolt.

*On my car the window is just glued to the clip, I bought some silicon adhesive for it at Pepboys.

*Rockauto.com
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

skibum1111 · #3 02-13-2007, 06:27 AM

On my 95, the clip is glued to the window but is bolted to the regulator, yours is probably the same. As for a regulator, check the local salvage yards, you might find a good one there. Bring a cordless drill and several drill bits for the rivets. Replace the rivets with bolts (as stated above) making sure you use the shortest bolts possible due to clearance issues. Also, check the rear window track, that seems to be the one that breaks the most, usually at the top of the door. It's held in by a bolt at the bottom of the door and a clip at the top. To take this out you obviously have to take out the window, also the outside trim if possible as that makes it much easier. Be careful not to break the clip when you install the guide. Good luck.

Greg M · #4 02-13-2007, 09:56 AM

Thanks for the help guys. Much appreciated.

I thought about replacing the rivets with bolts before, then a friend suggested against it. But I really can't see where it would matter, other than in the difficulty of fitting them in from behind since it's pretty hard to reach them. I think I'll try the bolts.

I've used salvage yards for parts before with good results. But I don't know about the salvage yard for this particular part. It seems to be pretty poorly made in the first place. I was hoping that the aftermarket version would be a little more sturdy.

Again, thanks for your help. When I get the part, I'll post results in hopes it can help someone else down the road. (Since this seems to unfortunately be a common problem on GAs).

xeroinfinity · #5 02-13-2007, 10:17 AM

I would NOT recomend repalcing the rivets with nut&bolts.
As they will get loose over time and either fall out of get loose and screw up the regulator again.

You can buy a cheap rivet gun with rivets at most parts stores for less then $25.

The adhesive you are suposed to use to hold the glass is an epoxy that is made just for glass. Also sold at most parts stores.

Of coarse you can cut corners and costs, but in the end, you will be back in there fixing it again.

Check Ebay auto for New regulators.

Just my

crazy Jim · #6 02-13-2007, 10:31 AM

I believe the rivets are about 1/4" in dia, if so, it may be difficult to find/use that large a rivet puller. I would recomend nyloc nuts, they should not come loose as they are designed to lock on. I use aircraft quality titanium or aluminum self locking hardware and they absolutely will not work loose.

xeroinfinity · #7 02-13-2007, 10:42 AM

True Jim that nylon locking nuts would work.
The thing is the bolts need to be shorties, as if they pertrude inside or out of the door frame they might get caught on on some internals and cause problems.

That is why thier are rivets in thier as they dont stick out to much.

The bolts would need to be hardend or they could shear off over time, but the locking nuts would still be on there

Greg M · #8 02-13-2007, 07:55 PM

I bought a new replacement regulator on Ebay today ($54 w/shipping). I'm going to call around when I get ready to do it and see if some body shop can handle the rivets.

FWIW, there is plenty of room on the corresponding inside surface of the door panel for a nut and a bit of bolt to stick out. I'll have to see if it's feasable when I get the regulator.

I'll keep you posted, and thanks again for the help.

Greg M · #9 02-27-2007, 09:44 PM

I got this job finished last week but I'm just now getting around to posting.

All in all, it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Having done it once now, I could do it again (but I hope I won't!) in under half the time easily. It's just that not knowing what you're in for can stretch things out a bit.

I did use nylon locknuts in the door handle area instead of rivets. This was the hardest part of the job as I had to reach inside the door with my big 'ol meathooks to hold the bolt while tightening the nut. But it worked fine and there was plenty of clearance when the inside door went back on.

There was no need for any epoxy at all. The window is held on with a rivet through the clip which goes through the hole in the window. All I had to do was detach the white clip from the old regulator then put it on the new one.

Anyway, eveything works fine now. Hopefully this thread will help someone else with this problem in the future.

Thanks guys for the assistance.

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