Trying to replace my spark plug wires and plugs

[Metal_King]

Hello!!

I am trying desperately to replace my spark plug wires and spark plugs on my WIndstar without getting raped by the mechanics.

THe front 3 plugs look easy. Unfortunately, the back 3 look like climbing Everest might be easier.

I took the car to Auto Zone and the codes P1518 and P0303 came up. The 0303 code means I have a misfire in the #3 cylinder, which is in the back of course. I am assuming new plugs and wires will do the trick. It's getting to them that looks to be impossible.

I am heading out to Mammoth Mountain for some skiing tomorrow and would really like to get the minivan running by the morning.

Any pointers for a semi average mechanic like myself?

[corning_d3]

Two have to be changed from underneath, and one can be reached from behind the passenger side wheel. It's not very easy and a lift is suggested.

[pitteach]

I have replaced the plugs on my 2000 3.8. I removed the cowl and did it from up top. It's hard to see the plugs but you can do it by feel. I always avoid sitting under the van if I don't have to. All tolled it took about 45 minutes including the removal of the cowling. You can get a good look at the rear plugs through the wheel well if necessary. Be sure to use Motorcraft or Autolite double platinums.

[Metal_King]

Thanks for the reply guys.

I have taken the upper and lower cowling off the block. But, trying to replace them from up top looks menacing. I have wheel ramps (garage sale!) and have the front wheels up. I can understand not wanting to get under the car.

I will keep you guys updated as the wanna be mechanic in me continues...

[Metal_King]

All 6 are off!!!

Back to Auto Zone to get the motorcraft or autolites.

[12Ounce]

Great work!

Don't mess up by overtorqueing the replacement plugs ... 7 - 8 foot lbs is all that is recommended. That isn't very much! Overtorqueing the plugs will lead to stress in the plug body that may lead to failure and misfire.

Use a bit of petroleum jelly or elect grease on the plug cable caps. Helps the removal of cables next time around!

[Metal_King]

Unbelieveable. I can never do a job right. Everything is back together, except for some kind of exhaust tubing that I don't remember where it goes.

It's an s-shaped tube about 3/8 inch in diameter and I have no clue where it goes. I just hope that it doesn't go in the back of the engine.

Ford part XF2E-6C342-BC

[Metal_King]

Ha!! I found where it goes. It connects from the REAR valve cover to the portion on the air intake between the filter and throttle control. YES!!

Now, I go start it.

[Metal_King]

Damnit!!

The #3 cylinder is still misfiring.

Any ideas? Now, I'm just frustrated.

Could it be the rotor...err, I mean the rectangular rotor/coil box?

[busboy4]

Originally Posted by Metal_King

Damnit!!

The #3 cylinder is still misfiring.

Any ideas? Now, I'm just frustrated.

Could it be the rotor...err, I mean the rectangular rotor/coil box?

Could be, or injectors - berryman's chemtool in the gas for that. However, your first post included P1518 which is bank 1 Intake Manifold Runner Control stuck open. That being open will cause a somewhat rough idle, and if it is stuck open you probably have a vacuum leak caused by the actuator (assuming '98 or older van). You might start by securing the rear IMRC in the closed position and plug the rear IMRC actuator's vacuum line (eliminate the vacuum actuator from the vacuum system) and see what changes.

Post back, good luck. I wish I were off to Mammoth.

[wiswind]

I agree that the IMRC issue may be the cause....or contributing to the misfire....so I would follow the advice given.

I have also used the Berryman's B-12 Chemtool, in the metal can with success.
Clogged fuel injectors is a common issue, and the cleaner should clear them up.

[huskerdooo]

My only comment would be to add some lube to the wires in any case where you replace them or take them off.

I recently replaced my plugs and it took longer to yank the wires off than it did to replace the plugs. The plugs were easy. Getting the wires off was a nightmare.

[ogre73]

I had a misfire on my 2001 and after changing plugs and wires, running fuel injector cleaner, and even removing the upper manifold cover and cleaning all carbon out and checking the manifold bolts, I still had the misfire. When I pulled the coil, it was cracked in two places. What I mean is the sealant that they put in there, that hardens over the bottom, was cracked and allowing arcing to the block. On ebay I found the coil for $15.00. After that it worked beautifully.
What I am saying is don't count out the coil just yet.
Ogre

[corning_d3]

True. Also, I've seen many coils die from trying to fire a bad plug for too long.

[Metal_King]

Hello again guys.

I am back from Mammoth and had the best skiing of my life. I can finally conquer some black diamonds.

OK, back to the Windstar. It was definitely the coil. I bought that at Pep Boys for $75, and it is off and running again. But, the check engine light is still on. I am assuming that is still the Intake Manifold thingy. I bought the Berrymans B-12 metal can stuff and put that in. We will see what happens.

But, the main thing is, I am back on 6 cylinders and I am not abusing the catalytic converter now.