Shuttering

[AvalonJohn]

Guys,

Need a little help. About 6 months ago my Winnie started to shudder slightly under light to moderate acceleration, usually going up inclines. Wasn't too bad so ignored it. Got a little wrose so I performed the "Isolator Bolt" fix. Replaced bolts, gaskets, plugs, wires. Whole 9 yards. It's continued to get worse and has increased in intensity and frequency. The tranny was rebuilt at 65K and fluid was changed at 95K. Only fluid was changed not filer, screen, and gasket. Car now has 119K on it, so it's been 25K since fluid change. Is it reasonable to think that the shudders are from the tranny ?? If so i will get them to do a full flush with Mecron V. Anyone know a good one or is it good enough if I have them use whatever their Mecron V is ? What else could this be is not the tranny ? alos, I've seen that some have put a additive in the fluid to help with shudders ... what is it and is it safe for the tranny ?

Thanks,

AvalonJohn

[12Ounce]

When was the fuel filter last changed?

[AvalonJohn]

About a year and a half ago ....

AJ

[12Ounce]

Any chance of hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and locating it so it can be watched while you drive up a hill?

[garync1]

At this point if you have not change the coil yet. You may need to wait and see. Most likely if it is the coil as it gets worse your CEL will start to blink..Then you will know the coil need replacing.. My coil seem to last in the 99,000 mile range. After the coil replacement a while later I notice my van began to shutter again but just mildly.. The dealer change the trans fluid and still no change.I did notice however after about 10 miles of city driving my trans would leak a little if I pulled my trailer to the dump which is 7 miles from my house it would leak and shutter very bad. Took to a trans guy and he said it may be the pump going bad. I put the red bottle Lube Guard in from NAPA and it has seem to help.. Don't know why. I have never been a big fan of bottle treatments.. But I may have to change my view on this one..I heard about this product on the Forum and NAPA sells it behind the counter the red cap gray bottle is not the same as the red box red bottle..But it may work for you if its your trans..

[AvalonJohn]

!2 Ounce/garync1,

I'll try each. I'll probably get a complete ATF flush first and go from there. garync1, should I use the Lubegaurd in the red bottle with the red box, right ? Do I use the whole bottle and is 1 bottle enough ?

AJ

[12Ounce]

Please don't get a machine flush from dealer or anyplace else. Too many issues with contaminants being left in tranny ... no way to avoid it.

A self-flushing, where you use the tranny pump, is what Ford recommends in the shop manual. No machines attached. You will find it discussed on this forum. I have used it several times on several vehicles.

I have no problem, or recommendation, about adding Lube-Gaurd ... may try it myself someday.

[wiswind]

Your profile mentions a 1999 windstar, which is in line with the isolator bolt TSB you mention.
The '99 also had the issue with the front valve cover that is mentioned in the TSB information.

If the engine is causing the shudder and is not bad enough to cause the CEL to come on, it is a guessing game.
One other thing, which has been mentioned a lot on this forum is the Delta Pressure FEedback Sensor (DPFE).
It should cause a CEL if it is bad, but it is possible, like the ignition coil, to be slightly bad, but not bad enough to cause a CEL.

One thing that I HAVE struggled with in the past is the Windstar's tendancy to get dirt buildup at the spray end of the fuel injectors....and cause a slight miss, that has sent me chasing a couple of times.
For this reason, I would highly recommend that you get a metal can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool fuel system cleaner.
They sell it at AutoZone and a number of other auto part stores.
It is one of the less expensive of the many choices of cleaners.
My mechanic gets the credit for tuning me in on this particular brand.
It is SOVENT based, whereas most are detergent based.
I will tell you that it DOES work....where many others do NOT.
This is one of the cheapest and easiest solutions......and a very likely fix.

For the transmission, I would change the fluid.
Also, a auxillary transmission cooler is a good idea.
I would also verify low speed radiator fan operation, as this will greatly help to keep the transmission cooler.
This is a easy test.
With the vehicle parked, turn the A/C ON, and check to see if the radiator fans are running.
The fans should be on anytime that the A/C is ON, and the vehicle is not traveling above a minimum speed.
If the fans are NOT running, then it is possible that the dropping resistor for the radiator low speed fan is defective.
I posted pictures of this item.

I also posted pictures of the transmission fluid change process.
They are in the pictures that the link in my signature will take you to.

[garync1]

Originally Posted by AvalonJohn

!2 Ounce/garync1,

I'll try each. I'll probably get a complete ATF flush first and go from there. garync1, should I use the Lubegaurd in the red bottle with the red box, right ? Do I use the whole bottle and is 1 bottle enough ?

AJ

YEP only need one red bottle..

[tbirddmnd]

I'm having a similar problem on my 2001 Windstar SE and performed the EGR port cleaning procedure yesterday, which is detailed here:

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

My check engine light went out after I did this EGR port cleaning but I'm still having a miss and lousy gas mileage now. This van has 66,300 miles and the original plugs, wires, and fuel filter. Before this happened this van ran strong for a 3.8L, and it happened shortly after putting some fuel in at a gas station. Could it have been bad gas that did something to my fuel filter? My one and only code was P0303 for a miss in cylinder 3, the CEL was flashing then shone steadily, then back to flashing.

I checked the wires visually in pitch darkness for any sparking or arcing; nothing at all. I'm going to try the IAC cleaning procedure next to see what that does. I ran a can of SeaFoam in the gas tank last week and nothing changed.

I'm pretty sure I can change out the fuel filter on this van myself, but do I need a special tool to do it? Not relishing the thought of jacking it up, crawling under there to change it out and then get a little bit of gas sprayed on me for my trouble! The smell stays with you for a long time! Hopefully it's something simple - I've called around for price quotes on a tune-up for this van, average seems to be $300! I could do a tune-up myself but I am NOT a contortionist! The front cylinders (4, 5, and 6) seem easy enough to get to, but the back 3 (1, 2, and 3) are impossible to reach. Sure hope it's not the infamous coil. Is a coil replacement something I can do? What's the cost on these?

Thanks for helping a newbie to this forum out! This problem is really pesky and I'd like to get it taken care of quickly and for as little as possible. The van has a couple other things wrong with it; the infamous heater blend door problem, the driver's side window motor is bad, the speedometer jumps around at speeds above 40 MPH, and on the freeway I get an intermittent "CHECK TRANSMISSION" in the data window.

[12Ounce]

I had a bad fill-up on a vacation trip once. Too much alcohol, I believe. Immediately the engine began loosing power ... and it worsened until I found and replaced the fuel filter. This time I let a mom-pop service station do mine since I was on the road.

The fuel filter is easy enough to change. I would advise getting one from the Ford dealer ... just to make sure the retaining clips are correct. I've seen some ill-fitting clips supplied with aftermarkets. You don't want that thing coming loose! Just a pair of pliers perhaps ... depends on your finger strength.

The rear plugs are easy also ... after you bite the bullet and remove the plastic cowling.

[tbirddmnd]

I cleaned the IAC valve - it shines inside now - and no change. I'm wanting to change the fuel filter next before I perform the tune-up.

If it comes down to the tune-up (wires, plugs, DPFE sensor - where is this on the 2001?? Can't find it!) would removing the cowl give me enough space to get the rear cylinders from up top instead of having to use my ramps?

Thanks!!

[12Ounce]

I find the rear of the engine area pretty easy to reach with the cowl off. Just takes some cardboard, or rubber gym floor tiles, across the engine and radiator to take care of the old tummy.

[tbirddmnd]

Well I changed the fuel filter, not too bad to do. No special tools aside from an 8mm socket on a screwdriver attachment to loosen that clamp, and used my fingertips to press in those buttons on the lines leading to each end of the filter. Of course I'm exactly as I didn't want to be - can't get that damned gasoline smell off my fingertips!

No difference in the van by the way, still runs and idles rough. Looks like I'm gonna have to do the tune-up with the double platinum plugs, new wire set, new coil pack, and the EGR/DPFE sensor since I'll be in there anyway. Where exactly is the DPFE sensor on a 2001 anyway? It's not in front where I can see it!

At least my EGR ports are clean. And my MAF is clean too.

Thanks!!

[ibia22]

Got a '99, I know the problem!

I did the isolator bolt fix, valve cover, plugs, EGR valve, DPFE sensor, fuel filter, B-12 chem tool in gas tank and in intake manifold. And it still shuddered at all speeds under moderate to heavy acceleration.

So, I broke down and paid $110.00 to the stealership, for a professional diagnosis. They quoted $300.00 (in addition to the diagnostic charge) to replace the Vapor Canister Purge Valve. Yeah right. Took my car back untouched.

Bought the part online from Rock Auto for $40.09 shipped! And swapped it out with the old one in less than 10 minutes.

Now, my '99 Windstar is actually fun to drive. Stepping into the gas pedal causes it to roar and scream as it doles out its 200+ ponies.