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Old 09-14-2002, 01:49 PM   #1
IceChickenX
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Talking new X owner, need advise

Just bought my new X...2002 XE V6 4x4... less than a month ago, I just discovered this forum. I think I've read every thread in this forum, and have gained some valuable info. The more I read, the more I have questions, due to the fact I'm inexperienced with off-raoding (Been off-roading many times with father when little but, inexperienced with maintainence regarrding off-road vehicles). ANYWAY.....

My questions are:

Why choose manual hubs over automatic (for serious off-roaders)
What type of cleaning/maintainence/inspections do you perform post
off road trips (going thru water, mud, etc...)
Do I still need to trim the fender when I add 31's (I currently have
P265/70R16's)
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH So many questions...to little space to type!!!!!

Was considering getting brush guard, but I decided against that...thanks
Chainsaw and rrdstarr! Your sharing of wisdom came just in time!

I almost forgot....Nissan doesn't have a bug shield yet for my 2002 X
Go figure?!?!?! Instead I went with a Lund! (My first Mod.!!!!) What a
beauty! I hate to post a pick (b/c it won't be an off-road shot, all I have is driveway)...........Was planning on going off-road until my company sent me out to California for 3 months for thermal testing on Satellites

Help! Thanks for your newbie patience
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Old 09-14-2002, 02:48 PM   #2
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265/70R16s are already 31" for all intents and purposes. The 2002 can actually fit a 32" tire without trimming, since the flares incorporate essentially the same extra clearance already.

Manual hubs: They're supposed to be tougher/stronger than auto hubs, that's the main benefit. Otherwise, a lot of their so-called benefits are misunderstood or exaggerated. I'll explain...
You'll hear about auto hubs "unlocking" when you switch direction in 4WD. This is true, the mechanism that allows them to lock and unlock on their own is something of a cam/ramp setup. As you switch direction, the mechanism comes off the ramp and unlocks for part of a rotation before it goes up the ramp in the other direction and re-locks. During this partial rotation of the axle, only the rear wheels are getting power. If the rear wheels have enough grip, they'll move you in the direction you desire on their own while the front end is unlocked briefly, no problem. But, if they don't have the grip, they will spin. Spinning the rear wheels at the wrong time can be trouble. You can dig yourself deeper into the hole/mud, or worse yet, if you're on a side-slope the rear end can slide sideways briefly and get you in an even tougher spot. Also, as the rear wheels spin, the front axles reach the same RPMs and when the hubs do lock again, they have to "catch" the spinning axle and get the wheel moving again, and that's quite a shock to the system and can cause damage.
What an auto hub will NOT do is leave you unable to shift into 4WD once you're stuck, or unable to re-lock if you change direction while stuck. People think you have to actually move for the hubs to lock, but in reality all it takes is for the axle shafts to rotate inside the hubs. You're not relying on the rear wheels to get you moving when they're unlocked prior to them locking.
With manual hubs, once you turn the dial, they're locked right away, 100% of the time, you can change direction without becoming 2WD for a moment, and there's no shock load on the hubs/driveline like when the auto hubs (re-)engage if the rear wheels spin.

I'll leave the maintenence question to someone else, I just make sure to thoroughly clean the underside of the X. I don't spend much time in water, but as long as you keep moving steadily through water (that isn't above the tops of the tires) the water isn't apt to find its way into the hubs, axles, etc. If you end up stopping, that's when water is prone to getting into things. Suffice to say, the more time you get into deeper water, the more often you should inspect or change the hub grease and driveline fluids.

Brent
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Old 09-14-2002, 03:05 PM   #3
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Thanks for the great info.......the reason why I ask about the post trip maintainence, is...I've read on some threads that you (plural) need to repack the bearings after going thru mud or water....

Is it hard to change from auto to Man. hubs?

sorry if I'm slow to respond right now....listening to Ga. Tech @ Clemson...when the game is over (5 min. left in 4th) I can respond faster.....
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Old 09-14-2002, 03:30 PM   #4
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OffroadX,
Now that my alum has suffered their first conference loss to Clemson, I can ask more questions...
Per your description of auto hubs, you mean to tell me, for example, while in 4low (moving forward), I then choose to move in reverse, the hubs unlock, and I'm no longer in 4 wheel drive? If this is the case, I see the advantage of having manual hubs.
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Old 09-14-2002, 04:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by IceChickenX
OffroadX,
Now that my alum has suffered their first conference loss to Clemson, I can ask more questions...
Per your description of auto hubs, you mean to tell me, for example, while in 4low (moving forward), I then choose to move in reverse, the hubs unlock, and I'm no longer in 4 wheel drive? If this is the case, I see the advantage of having manual hubs.
sorta but only briefly. this is only really critical if you are on rocks or on hill climbs. because what happens is you are going on a technical part up hill on rocks, and say you have to stop to backup to turn a different direction cause the trail is tight. the moment you take your foot off the brake and then apply the gas to move forward is that exact moment you need to move forward as soon as possible. If you have automatic hubs, for that split second it is possible that the hubs have become unlocked. If they did, you have to totally rely on your rear tires for that initial second that you need to pop up over that rock lets say. well the rear may not be enough. If you had manual hubs, that split second would have included the front wheels turning as well and may be the difference between you popping up over that rock or spinning the wheels and perhaps sliding backwards. and like Brent mentioned, when the front wheels to finally lock depending on how much gas you gave it, you could put stress on the auto hubs. On some trails manual hubs can be the difference between making it up and not, but that is rare. but most times on that same trail it will just take you A LOT more work. I have a definite trail that I have run in my mind for this example so that is why i am explaining it as such.

Manual hubs are one of those things that you know you need them if in fact you do. it really depends on the type of wheeling you do and the terrain that you like.

there are FAR better mods for you to do initally than manual hubs. like I said, if you need them, you will know you need them.
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Old 09-14-2002, 04:43 PM   #6
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very interesting...After reading all the replies about 5 more times, I think its sinking in. Experience, as you said, will be my greatest foe/ally depending on what trail is taken.

Quote:
If you have automatic hubs, for that split second it is possible that the hubs have become unlocked. If they did, you have to totally rely on your rear tires for that initial second that you need to pop up over that rock lets say.
(This is the engineer in me asking this)...if your on an incline, what's the distance you travel down hill before the hubs lock up again?

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Old 09-14-2002, 09:32 PM   #7
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I'll just toss in my 2 cents here.

You don't need to repack your bearings every time you go through water. You could to be safe, but in reality it's not that common for the grease to be fouled. Running water, like a river is more likely to foul the grease, and going too fast through standing water increases your risk. Anyway, I put about 25,000 miles of driving and offroading on my truck before I repacked the bearings and the grease was still good (doesn't mean this applies to everyone, just don't think you have to do it with every puddle you go through).

Like the other guys said, there are better places to spend your money that manual hubs. Get some good 31" tires and go wheeling with a local Xterra club. Find out what kind of offroading you like and see what mods others have that do the same kind of driving you do. Then go from there.
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Old 09-14-2002, 10:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by IceChickenX
(This is the engineer in me asking this)...if your on an incline, what's the distance you travel down hill before the hubs lock up again?
As Brent said, it is not a question of distance. if you get in the situation in my example you will know what I am talking about. it is that split second you begin to roll back that you need the power front and rear right then and there....say a rock ledge.
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Old 09-15-2002, 04:58 PM   #9
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the manual hubs are a cheap and easy mod. if you have a snap ring tool it only takes about 20mins per side to swap them. and you can carry your auto hubs as spares.

as for cleaning after wheeling, i always stick the hose in all the holes along the frame rails. you'll be surprised how much crud comes flowing out. i am not sure about 2002's, but chuckh pointed out that its good to occasionally take off the fender flares and clean out the crap that gets stuck behind them.

when i am done wheeling and cleaning i usually crawl under the truck and give it quick once over. check the steering linkage, cv boots, fuel lines, and suspension stuff. these trucks can take a huge amount of abuse so breaking stuff is pretty hard to do.
find a local xterra club and enjoy yourself.
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Old 09-15-2002, 06:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by evergreen

as for cleaning after wheeling, i always stick the hose in all the holes along the frame rails. you'll be surprised how much crud comes flowing out. i am not sure about 2002's, but chuckh pointed out that its good to occasionally take off the fender flares and clean out the crap that gets stuck behind them.
Yeah, that's a good one. After I'm done wheeling I stop in at the spray@wash and go over my truck. I just use the spray, no scrubbing or anyting, in order to blow off all the junk. I have skid plates so I blast down there. If I end up washing my truck by hand afterwards (at home), I make sure to clean under the rear flares. Take a hose and stick your hand back there. There is a ton of gunk. Also, every once and a while, pull off all the fender well plastic moulding. You'll get crap back there as well. Clean it, and lay down some hard wax to help prevent rust.
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:30 PM   #11
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Schludwiller and all who responded,
Thanks all the info., that should keep me busy for a while, the 31's will be my next mod. When?? Thats another question for another day....
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