00 Windstar Radio removal

PopI · #1 10-18-2006, 12:18 AM

Ok, did I already mention that I'm mechanically declined?

In an effort to fix my clicking blend door motor, I purchased the U shaped tools to remove the stereo.

I've tried it with them in about an inch, tried it with them shoved in as far as I could, tried to wedge in a butter knife (no luck with that)... and the thing won't come out.

Anyone with pics of what is 'behind the scenes' so I can understand what these U things are supposed to do (I get the concept... but obviously something is amiss here).

Thanks in advance.

PopI · #2 10-18-2006, 02:32 AM

Another hour of trial and error finally resulted in successful removal of the radio. Trick was to use butter knives on the L and R of the radio, in addition to the U Tools for additional pulling leverage.

Now... what's next?

Dang good thing I have an office job.

garync1 · #3 10-18-2006, 08:59 AM

look for the white color motor you will still need to remove the glove box just drop it down push in the sides were the stopers hold it open when you open the glove box. that as much removed as it will need to be. I have pics if you need them. Gary

garync1 · #4 10-18-2006, 09:41 AM

http://www.msnusers.com/FordWindstar..._homepage.msnw
Scroll down to the right and click on the pics to make them larger.
Hope this helps. The secret to removel of the radio is to push in the tool to you hear a click then push the tools toward the the drivers side and the other to the pasangers side door while you are pulling out the radio. There are snap clips were the tool goes in to that need to be pushed in. While you are pulling out. I think there are 3 bolts holding the blend door motor in and they are small. most of them can be accessed from the glove box area. A small 1/4 inch ratchet and extestion are needed from what i can remember... Sorry the pics are not that clear. The motor has a D shape shaft and slides in one way. hope this helps.. Gary

PopI · #5 10-18-2006, 02:45 PM

Garync1 -
Thanks for the pics/link. I think I need a different tool than what I have to get the actuator out. Thanks for the size details... we'll see if I picked up the right tool when I get home tonight.

Now... where do I find a new (replacement) blend door actuator/motor? Obviously the dealer parts dept... are there any other options?

Can I order something like this through AutoZone?

What about a junkyard... I've never been to one so I don't know how that sort of thing works... would I have to do my own actuator removal out in the junk yard (I'm thinking like a pick-your-own berry patch situation)?

I didn't intend for this thread to develop this far, otherwise I would have given it a more appropriate title.

Thanks again, everyone, for your help.

garync1 · #6 10-18-2006, 03:14 PM

As far as the part the dealer is the only place i know that has it. I think it was 56.00 bucks, as far as a junker keep in mind the plastic gears and it may as well go bad quickly.I am not sure but i think they upgraded the new part. It seem to feel a little heavier than the old one.. Just a guess on that.. I called it an actuator they called it a motor so its good to take the old one with you.They had one in stock so that ment to me they had issues with it..Just think about it out of all the ford models and mine being a 2001 why would they have it in stock. The parts guy said the same thing.. They said they keep some old trans in stock for some of the older Ford cars. Taurus being the main one..

PopI · #7 10-18-2006, 03:35 PM

Funny.
I called the Ford Dealer... they happen to have one in stock also. Current price is $59.33. They said that since it is an electrical component, there are no returns if I chicken out in my DIY attempt.

Service Dept (via phone) says there are 3 such blend door motors in that area so he had a hard time getting a repair estimate. I explained to him it was right behind the radio, but he didn't seem any more confident after that.

His 'worst case scenario' for any of these 3 actuators would be 1.5 hours of labor (plus parts). So... $135+$59= $194 (plus tax). That's a lot cheaper than the $450+ I was expecting... but still... it's $135 more than want to pay.

Such a dilemna.

Chances are I'll try my new tools tonight to see if I can remove the actuator and conclude that it is the problem (vs. a broken door). If I can manage to do that (and not lose the screws) then I'll purchase the part on thursday and install it that evening or Fri. morning.

PopI · #8 10-18-2006, 03:39 PM

If I completely remove the blend door motor, can I still drive the vehicle without harming any of the other components? Will it trigger the 'check engine' light?

I'm disconnecting the battery while doing the work of course - but I'm concerned about operating the vehicle without this thing installed. I don't need to damage or fry anything else of course.

garync1 · #9 10-18-2006, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PopI

If I completely remove the blend door motor, can I still drive the vehicle without harming any of the other components? Will it trigger the 'check engine' light?

I'm disconnecting the battery while doing the work of course - but I'm concerned about operating the vehicle without this thing installed. I don't need to damage or fry anything else of course.

Will not harm a thing...And its a plug in so you dont have to disconnect the battery but always a good practice...

PopI · #10 10-19-2006, 12:43 PM

Ok, after a long battle (which included dropping my socket into the center console and subsequent removal of the lower dash) I finally extracted the blend door motor. What a pain.

Anyway, with the motor removed, but still plugged in, I moved the temperature slider and watched the protruding rod turn. If I gripped the rod (to prevent it from turning) I then hear the 'click' noise that started this project.

The plastic gears that others mentioned must be located inside this motor housing? How can I determine if the gear is stripped vs. the door broken? I can't find an angle to peer into the little hole to view the door. What do I do?

If I can get a screwdriver in this hole to the door then I must be able to rotate it one way or the other, right? Even if I do that, though... how will I know if the door itself is broken or not?

Finally, just for kicks I tried to put the old motor back in it's spot, but I guess the extruding rod is no longer in the same orientation as when I pulled it out. How do I get it back to the right spot? This will certainly be an issue when I get the new motor to install - the last thing I need to do is to strip the gears on the new motor!

garync1 · #11 10-19-2006, 02:02 PM

The motor rod is in the Shape of a D right?? It will go back to the position the controls are set too. As for the Blend door being broken if you can hear the door contacting end to end as you move it the door should be ok. As for the motor there are little metal strips that are the sensor for the controls so thats were the D shape of the rod come into play. Wont allow it to rotate 360 degrees.
When you install it back it may not wont to bolt back right just make sure the D shape rod goes in right and rotate slowly by hand tell bolt holes line up.Dont force it hard it should turn into position easy.
Now as for your claping noise did it go away after you removed and unpluged the blend door motor??? there should be no sound with it removed and unpluged.

PopI · #12 10-19-2006, 03:00 PM

Yes, the rod is in a D shape... and when the car is operating without the blend door motor there is no clanging, banging or any other noise. That must be a good sign from what you stated. That's great because I was starting to have my doubts that my efforts would be futile and I'd end up with a $2000 repair bill.

I'm heading out to purchase the new blend door motor and will hopefully be able to install it tonight.

Your explanation on how to get the motor back in really helps to increase my comfort level. Thank you!

garync1 · #13 10-19-2006, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PopI

Yes, the rod is in a D shape... and when the car is operating without the blend door motor there is no clanging, banging or any other noise. That must be a good sign from what you stated. That's great because I was starting to have my doubts that my efforts would be futile and I'd end up with a $2000 repair bill.

I'm heading out to purchase the new blend door motor and will hopefully be able to install it tonight.

Your explanation on how to get the motor back in really helps to increase my comfort level. Thank you!

DID you pull the glove box down ?? that should help out alot for thats were most of my photo shots came from..of the motor.. easy to pull down just push the sides of the glove box in..so the stopers will clear and glove box will fall..hanging .

PopI · #14 10-20-2006, 01:29 AM

Long story made short:

Got the new motor, checked to make sure that I could turn the blend door (using short but wide screwdriver in the 'D' hole (yes, it rotated 90 degrees) so I installed the moter and it seems to work like a charm.

I have had the glove box opened (all the way to the floor) and the radio out... but I found that having the lowest part of the middle dashboard removed helped provide a lot of additional access room. I'm talking about the section below the center cupholder (not the heater part).

Thanks again to all of you on this forum for all the helpful advice. Especially you, Garync1! Your advice, direction and support helped to make this project a success! Hopefully I can pay it forward to some other poor Windstar owner.

PopI (that's Popeye, not poppy).

Happy Motoring to you all!

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