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#1
09-02-2006, 03:58 PM
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525i proper coolant bleeding method
i have a 1990 525i it needs the cooling system bled. i do not have a bleeder cap on the expantion take it snapped off some time back but i have the bleeder ontop of the thermostat and all that comes out of it ever is steam
any ideas 
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#5
09-04-2006, 09:00 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
You say the radiator bleed screw is broken off? It should be a brass screw on top left side near the expansion tank, but on the radiator body itself.
Bleeding the cooling system is a real pain until you figure it out, which took me about three or four times of having to bleed it. There are numerous sites on the web that speak to coolant replacement and bleeding the system. They all say to turn the heater controls to full hot position. Do that. What works for me is to take the brass screw out of the top of the radiator, and open the bleed screw on the thermostat. Start pouring the coolant mix into the expansion tank, and here it the important part: USE A FUNNEL so that you can fill it above the neck line of the tank. Fill the funnel cone, and it will slowly offset the tank contents to add more to the radiator, and keep adding until it comes out the thermostat bleed screw port. Close the thermostat bleed screw, and continue to add more coolant to the funnel until coolant comes out the top hole on the radiator: where the brass screw is.... If you brass bleed screw on top of the radiator is broken, then I would expect that you have a leak there.... You may need to get the broken screw out and replace it with a new screw. The alternative is a new radiator which is costly. Crank the engine and run it until the thermstat opens. (You did install a new thermostat, right?). Usually this is when the temp gauge reaches 12 noon postion. Stand back, and crack open the thermostat bleeder screw just enough that coolant and air bubbles start to spurt out. Put a catch basin under the vehicle to catch the poisonous coolant.... Check the top hose that leaves the thermostat to see if it is getting hot. The one that goes down by the fan to the bottom of the radiator. If the car is HOT but this hose is NOT, then your radiator is clogged. Take it to a radiator shop for cleaning, or buy a new one. After bleeding hot coolant and air out of the thermostat for a while, Close the Bleeder: cut off the car, let it cool completely. Add more coolant, and repeat this cycle. You should only have to do this about one time.... maybe. You know you are done when you meet two conditions: The car does not overheat: Temp Gauge reads 12Noon, and the heater gets hot: air bubbles are gone from the heater circuit. The first time I broke open my cooling system, it took me three days get the cooling system to work.... what a pain! Good Luck!
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ShadeTreeBill 1989 525i Cirrus Blue Automatic 2002 White Malibu (wife's car!) shade tree mechanic - an amateur or otherwise marginally competent mechanic who primarily works on cars out back under a "shade tree" which serves both to provide a cool place to work, and a handy tree limb to attach the block and tackle to remove the engine.
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#6
09-05-2006, 08:25 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
well the car is sitting here until this weekend im doing the headgasket and a few other things while i have 2 extra cars to drive. I figure ill drain the coolant and oil because its starting to have a bad oil leak right at the headgasket etc so im going to pull everything apart sometime this week and this weekend do the whole gasket job. If anyone has any tips on that please let me know. Thanks
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#7
09-05-2006, 08:34 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
I did the headgasket on mine two times: the first time when the timing belt broke,and I had to replace the head due to damaged valves, and cracked castting....
ABout a year later I had to do the head gasket again since it had started leaking.... the only reason I could figure out was that I did not use a 'degreaser' on the head and block surfaces before reassembling. I used a new good quality gasket, new headbolts, and followed the torque procedure to a T, but it "blew" about a year later. The second time I took it apart (last January) I was careful to degrease both surfaces using brake cleaner, and made sure no drops of oil contaminated the joining surfaces. Other than that, make sure to torque the head bolts, and the nuts on the intake and exhaust manifolds properly. I used an entire "gasket kit" that supplied all needed gaskets. Last time I also replaced the exhaust manifold to tailpipe gaskets since I had an exhause leak there. The hardest part of that was getting the old nuts off. Use a lot of penetrating oil, and patience.... That's all I can think of at the moment... have fun!
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ShadeTreeBill 1989 525i Cirrus Blue Automatic 2002 White Malibu (wife's car!) shade tree mechanic - an amateur or otherwise marginally competent mechanic who primarily works on cars out back under a "shade tree" which serves both to provide a cool place to work, and a handy tree limb to attach the block and tackle to remove the engine.
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#9
09-07-2006, 07:27 AM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
Well... there is a torque spec for virtually every nut and bolt that you will remove in the process.
If you do not have one, you should definitely buy at least the $15 Haynes book, the Bentley book is even better but the Haynes book will give you all the torque specs and other valuable info about the process.... Briefly though: Intake manifold to head : 22 to 24 ft lbs Torx style Head Bolts: 22 ft lbs, then rotate an additional 90 degrees, then turn another additonal 90 degrees Exhaust manifold: 16 to 18 ft lbs. There are other head bolt styles : Hex I don't know what you have... Best to pick up a book. Disclaimer: use info I supply at your own risk, see definition below! Good luck, and have fun!
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ShadeTreeBill 1989 525i Cirrus Blue Automatic 2002 White Malibu (wife's car!) shade tree mechanic - an amateur or otherwise marginally competent mechanic who primarily works on cars out back under a "shade tree" which serves both to provide a cool place to work, and a handy tree limb to attach the block and tackle to remove the engine.
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#10
09-07-2006, 02:14 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
headbolts on mine have 6 points looks like i can stick an 11mm socket on it to remove? all the parts came today took off the throttle body and valve cover now to tackle the head.
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#11
09-08-2006, 05:50 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
If they are hex head bolts yes.... the surfaces between the points are flat.
If they look like stars, then they are the torx head bolts, and you must use a torx socket. I got a set of 5 at Advance Auto... not expensive. You cannot reuse the head bolts in either case, they are "Stretch type" bolts that must be replaced each time they are removed....
__________________
ShadeTreeBill 1989 525i Cirrus Blue Automatic 2002 White Malibu (wife's car!) shade tree mechanic - an amateur or otherwise marginally competent mechanic who primarily works on cars out back under a "shade tree" which serves both to provide a cool place to work, and a handy tree limb to attach the block and tackle to remove the engine.
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#12
09-08-2006, 11:43 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
luckily i looked at the timing belt while i still have everything apart waiting for new head bolts i like to get everything before i get it all apart and realised im fucked i need all this shit i should have replaced. But the timing belt had a huge crack down the middle of it and the cap and rotor and bently manual are coming monday so everything should be good to go on tuesday
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#13
09-09-2006, 12:41 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
Yeah, I was just thinking that I should warn you about the timing belt.
And I hate to mention these items, but I would strongly suggest you replace the timing belt tensioner ( I had to "go back in" on mine about a month after to do this) and most folks also suggest you go ahead and do the water pump while you are in there. I happened to know that mine was only a year and half old so I didn't do the water pump, thought I am still nervous about it.... The timing belt tensioner was only about $25 from alleurasianparts.com. Mine started squealing like a banshee about a month after I did the head the first time. Let me know how it goes!
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ShadeTreeBill 1989 525i Cirrus Blue Automatic 2002 White Malibu (wife's car!) shade tree mechanic - an amateur or otherwise marginally competent mechanic who primarily works on cars out back under a "shade tree" which serves both to provide a cool place to work, and a handy tree limb to attach the block and tackle to remove the engine.
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#14
09-11-2006, 01:36 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
i have the whole timing kit belt and tensioner. Now to remove the head do i have to pull the timing cover off and take the tension off the belt? i got the exhaust off the head and the only thing that feels like its holding it is the timing belt
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#15
09-11-2006, 01:36 PM
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Re: 525i proper coolant bleeding method
water pump is only a month old so i know thats good i got a new cap rotor and coil while i was at it along with a new thermostat and a good oil filter good oil and bmw coolant. hopefully all goes well btw bill thanks for your help
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