As everyone probably knows, i've had quite a few various minor problems with this cutlass. However, everything is completely fixed and the car still looks fantastic on the outside. I'm planning on buying sometime in the next few months a certified pre-owned 2004 Mitsubishi Galant LS (haven't test-driven yet, but i'm sure the 230hp/255ft-lb torque 3.8L 24V V6 will sound nice) with around 30,000 miles on it. Basically, i've checked market prices, kelley blue book and other sources and i'm just curious what you guys thought as well when I make my decision. These are the things I have to consider and I would like some honest opinions from some of you knowledgeable folks in here. It would be greatly appreciated and would weigh heavily on my considerations.
The car has fantastic speakers, partly because of the expensive, phenomenal CD Deck I put in there about a year and a half ago (which also can play MP3/WMA CDs and has a jack meant for an iPod). It also has a brand new muffler and exhaust system that really sounds FANTASTIC (very, VERY nice sound) and the engine itself has always been good. We have replaced the spark plugs/plug wires, MAF sensor, coil packs, new valve covers, sealed up a small coolant leak with some of Bar's stop leak liquid, updated the water pump, new radiator, K&N Air Filter and replaced the fuel pump (it failed) too. We also spent half a day re-sealing the intake manifold, too, because it had been leaking.
Half of that was just to update things because of the intentions of selling it this year. Yes, we did all of this ourselves. The one thing we didn't do ourselves was in 2003 when we had a completely brand new transmission installed in it. We could have had a rebuilt one installed when all the clutches burned out on the car, but we opted for the new one. It wasn't precisely the same, was more rugged and I must say that it really shifts well. My buddy drives a 2004 Impala LS and he claims that it shifts just as well as his does, so I think that can be very appealing to a potential buyer.
The mechanic that installed it said the very core, internal part of the engine and also the transmission will probably outlive everything else on the car. Basically, NEVER has it ever stalled, cut out or failed to start up on me. It has a brand new battery in it now, and it started up consistently in -20 degree temperatures (I'm in Minnesota) without use of its engine block heater. The only problem is it seems to have a HUGE amount of power, always jumping out like you're racing someone. If you floor it at a stoplight, it will launch you forward with the greatest of ease but sometimes there is some torque steer. I'm not sure if thats because of what we've done, the air filter, different transmission or just an aspect of the car but it just seems different from other ones i've driven.
The ONE problem, the one thing I have never fixed because it never concerned me was that there was a problem with the ABS hub. It either needs replacing or some closer inspection at the wires, but I have been driving without ABS for a long time now. The car just seems to do good in winter as it is, so I just ignored it. The tires are losing some of their tread now, however, but its not close to being bald or anything.
So thats what I have to consider here. What do you guys think about all that? I would like some good, constructive opinions on prices. My mechanic cousin thinks I could get about $1000-1500 because, while it has 126,000 miles on it, it has a brand new transmission and he said the exceptional CD deck ups its value a little, too. I wasn't sure if all the repairs and changes done to improve the engine's already-stellar reliability would drop that price or keep it steady. I'm just new to selling and buying cars, hence the advice requested. If nobody cares to provide input, well hey thats okay! If I posted this in the wrong spot, well then I apologize for not searching for the right spot and hope it gets moved to that area.
Thanks for any of your opinions, because they will really help!
Scott