A/C only works on full blast!

[HammerStriker]

I am having tons of problems with my A/C in my 2001 Durango.

First : it will not cool at idle

Second : the blower only turns on when put at full blast

Any ideas?

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by HammerStriker

I am having tons of problems with my A/C in my 2001 Durango.

First : it will not cool at idle

Second : the blower only turns on when put at full blast

Any ideas?

don't know about the cooling at idle other than my durango A/Cs shuts down when when engine temp gets too high. Should be below halfway mark on temp gauge.

The Fan only working at high speed should be the Cooling Fan Resistor block. On my 1999, it's mounted inside the firewall, visible but not accessible from the engine bay. Sits below the passenger wiper. Has coils & not much to it. I understand that it is in different places depending on the year & other variations. If you have to remove the dash, count on a long day or weekend & brush up on your best cuss words.

Supposedly, some models aren't too bad. My SLT, 5.9 was a nightmare. I could only get the dash out far enough to change the fan (which was totally dead) & was going to change the resistor block while I was in there. Way too much trouble & I think I would burn it for the insurance before attempting it or possibly shoot Lee Iacocca.

Warning: changing the fan won't fix this problem per the dealership.

[HammerStriker]

Thanks for the info! I found this link floating out there (busy day at work), and think I'll try this first. But that still leaves the hot air at idle problem.

http://www.gtrippleb.com/auto/durango/tech/durango_blower_resistor.htm

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by HammerStriker

Thanks for the info! I found this link floating out there (busy day at work), and think I'll try this first. But that still leaves the hot air at idle problem.

http://www.gtrippleb.com/auto/durango/tech/durango_blower_resistor.htm

While you're buying the resistor block, pick the brain of one of the mechanics about the hot air at idle. Not sure how that function works myself. I think it has to do with a thermal input that supplies a cutoff or remove a ground to the AC. It may be a simple fix. Sometime, the guys at Autozone, Carquest or Napa can help. Have never gotten any useful advice from Checker myself but that just might be the store near my house. They also turned my slightly marginal brake drums into total pieces of crap.

[HammerStriker]

I forgot to reply, sorry steelerguy. Anyway, I asked about the hot air at idle, and I got the standard deer in the headlights look, followed by a probably the compressor. I'm gonna go ahead and doubt the source, but.....

will a compressor of a new durango/dakota work for my 2001 durango? I ask cause I found a "newer used" 05 compressor for dirt cheap, and was wondering if I should go ahead and buy it to see if it fits. Any suggestions?

Here's the model number of the newer one : 55056435AB

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by HammerStriker

I forgot to reply, sorry steelerguy. Anyway, I asked about the hot air at idle, and I got the standard deer in the headlights look, followed by a probably the compressor. I'm gonna go ahead and doubt the source, but.....

will a compressor of a new durango/dakota work for my 2001 durango? I ask cause I found a "newer used" 05 compressor for dirt cheap, and was wondering if I should go ahead and buy it to see if it fits. Any suggestions?

Here's the model number of the newer one : 55056435AB

If you haven't changed the resistor block first, then you really need to. The compressor has nothing to do with fan only operating at the highest setting. That fan system works without the A/C even activated. I am 99% sure of that...as in, you can go ahead & spend the money on whatever compressor & your fan on high only problem will still be there.

Now I am no AC tech, but I would think that same resistor block change might even fix your hot air at idle. Either way, fix the obvious before using a system shotgun approach.

If you do end up needing a compressor, I would go to a reputable A/C shop that does nothing but AC. 2 reasons: 1. they usually know more about AC because that's all they do. 2. They are usually cheaper in both the short & long run as they tend to get things right the first time & not replace parts that don't need replacing.

Don't be surprised if they do suggest or insist on replacing all of the major A/C component in order to warrant the compressor. That is standard & necessary in most cases.

Unless you do it alot, A/C work is not easy. I would not change a compressor myself.

[HammerStriker]

Thanks for the advice!

I also forgot to mention that I DID change the resistor, which fixed the fan problem. For anyone else tuning in, make sure you have a small flex head ratchet and really small hands. I have neither which is where my 6 year old son finally started to earn his keep.

This unfortunately did not fix the idle/heat problem, and stop and go traffic is starting to be unbearable in Houston, TX.

Any other quick fix suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[steelerguy]

Originally Posted by HammerStriker

Thanks for the advice!

I also forgot to mention that I DID change the resistor, which fixed the fan problem. For anyone else tuning in, make sure you have a small flex head ratchet and really small hands. I have neither which is where my 6 year old son finally started to earn his keep.

This unfortunately did not fix the idle/heat problem, and stop and go traffic is starting to be unbearable in Houston, TX.

Any other quick fix suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Was it on the inside of the engine firewall, right below the passenger side wiper?

That's where mine is.

[HammerStriker]

No, it was under the dash in the passenger side floor board. It was a total pain in the @$$ to get to. Good news was that the fix only cost about $11.

[bpolley]

I paid the mechanics to do mine. $260 later.... Needless to say, I wasn't cussing like my normal sailor self until I got the bill..