Can you use "too much" Micro Set/Sol

[Captain Mark]

Hi guys,

Just wondering if any of you believe that too much microset/sol can be used on a decal?

I find that I tend to get carried away with things often, I guess it's just impatience, and end up going from mircoset to microsol very quickly on virtually all decals, and then putting about 3 coats on in reasonably quick succession.

Is this too quick?
Honestly I've not got enough experience with this product to know, and now I think I've just stuffed my FW13B again... not a happy camper.

The main problem I'm seeing is the decal getting VERY bubbly and staying that way. I know it's normal to see this, and to leave the decal alone, but it just seems to get worse and worse. I can put a few nicks in the decal to help it settle, but with so much microset/sol on it's so soft that I can't really get any success with this.

Thanks for any advice guys,
M

[Lambo003]

Hey there. . .

It really depends on the quality of the decals you're workin' with. As you know some react differently than others and there's such a broad range in between, it's tough to get a handle on how much solvent to use at any given time . . .ugh. . .

What I've found that works fairly well for me is to limit the use of the solvents all together and go back to the manufacturers directions of using only water. Squeegee out as much water as I can then follow up lightly with the solvents if they give me a hard time . . .

If I have a really complex curve I'll use a diluted setting solution before applying the decal. Usually a brush full of water to a brush full of solvent then work as quickly as possible to get it to the proper position . . .

The diluted solvent gives you a bit more time to fuss with it . . .

[935k3]

I have a tip that works quicker and causes no wrinkling. Try using a hot damp cloth pressed somewhat firmly over the decal. This makes the decal conform instantly with no solvents needed. I bought an electric hot water pot and keep it near when I do decals. I dip the cloth in the boiling water and then drain the excess water by pressing it on a paper towel, then quickly press the decal. For smaller areas and decals I use a Q-tip instead of the cloth.

[Vric]

Better yes, a very hot lamp (I use 50w bulb)

With just a bit microsol, it can conform to anything.

[Captain Mark]

Interesting tips, I might have to test some of those out tonight.
Cheers all.

[SeaBee]

Also heard (but not tried it yet) that an old hairdrier works a charm...

[freakmech]

Hey Cap"n... you have responded to my CF work before, and i must say that i use Micro-sol as a last resort. I use Micro-set and a hairdryer first and most often and if that doesnt work then i go to the Sol. Take your time.... that is most important!

[KTem]

Originally Posted by 935k3

I have a tip that works quicker and causes no wrinkling. Try using a hot damp cloth pressed somewhat firmly over the decal. This makes the decal conform instantly with no solvents needed. I bought an electric hot water pot and keep it near when I do decals. I dip the cloth in the boiling water and then drain the excess water by pressing it on a paper towel, then quickly press the decal. For smaller areas and decals I use a Q-tip instead of the cloth.

Wooo, thanks! I just tried this (half an hour ago), and it works like magic! First time applying CF, and it actually went on smooth! No, 935k3 hasn't paid me for saying this

[klutz_100]

Captain Mark - beware the light bulb!
I melted my Boxster dash that way
It definately works, but it's also a method where "less is more" is sound advice. You can redo a decal but it's hard to redo a melted plastic part