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#1
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I've decided I'm going to replace my rear brakes myself (I am going try at least). I've never done this before.
Is it real difficult? My haynes manual has a step by step instuction, so hopefully that will help. It says nothing about bleeding the brakes. Do I have to do that? My pads came with some lubricant. One is orange, the other is brown. What are they for? (I assume one is anti squeal and the other may be high temp grease). Where do they go? My rotors are 3 years old, should I even take them off and get them resurffaced? Where could I get that done? More questions to come? Also, if anyone knows of a good brake change write-up, let me know. I could use all the help I can get. thanks, marc |
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#2
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Re: rear brakes
There use to be a write up on whats in the box (well it was a photo with discriptions of each part).
the guys user name was JasonB (he owned a 99 Amigo), and he has a geocities site (might be worth a google). I would try to contact him to see if he still have the photos yet.
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-Ryan Isuzu Moderator Car Show Tips Operations manager with a results-driven passion for process improvement FAQ 98-04 Isuzu Rodeo, Rodeo Sport, Amigo, Trooper SOLD - NOV2015 - 2000 Amigo, V6, HT winter, ST summer, 2wd |
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#3
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Re: rear brakes
Well, you know how many miles I have; I'm currently on the 3rd set of brakes all around, but have never had to resurface or replace rotors.
FWIW - I do not recommend brakes from Autozone, truck went through them within 25-30k miles. I highly recommend to make certain to bleed and bleed the brake system when you're done, then take her around the block, come back and bleed once more.
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1997 3.2L V6 Rodeo 32" Yoko's, 16x8 MB Wheels, 2" lift, Brushguard, KC Fog's, Loadwarrior Rack On it's way to 185k strong ![]() 2004 3.4L Tacoma TRD off-road 4x4 Double cab 32" Yoko's, Westin Bull-bar, KC Fogs 60K miles
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#4
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Re: rear brakes
My fronts are finally due for a resurfacing. I get some pulsing. Clean up and lube the caliper pins well and do be sure to bleed the brakes. The Haynes is pretty good for the brakes on my '97. You can do it. Just take your time.
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#6
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Re: rear brakes
Quote:
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2000 VW New Beetle TDI 2007 Honda CR-V |
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#7
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Re: rear brakes
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What is "what's in the box"? |
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#8
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Re: rear brakes
http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:...ient=firefox-a
http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000127.html
__________________
-Ryan Isuzu Moderator Car Show Tips Operations manager with a results-driven passion for process improvement FAQ 98-04 Isuzu Rodeo, Rodeo Sport, Amigo, Trooper SOLD - NOV2015 - 2000 Amigo, V6, HT winter, ST summer, 2wd |
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#9
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Re: rear brakes
Dang Marc. I wish I would have known! I have a brand-new, in the box rear pad kit from St.Charles sitting in my workbench drawer. I have no use for them now
. It for a 2002+ tho. Not sure if that makes a difference (front brakes are way different on 2002+). I ordered brakes all the way around awile back, but the backs were still good yet. If anyone wants the rear pad kit for a 2002+, I'll give them to you. Just pay the USPS shipping. zip = 14170.G/luck Joel
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2016 Subaru Forester 2.5i base CVT 2016 Nissan Quest SV |
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#10
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Re: rear brakes
I finally got around to doing my rear brakes last weekend (did the fronts a few months ago). Disk brakes are easy, basicly remove the lower caliper bolt/slide pin, flip the caliper up and slide it off the bracket, replace pads, push the caliper piston in, put it all back together.
I didnt bleed my brakes. If you dont have a leak or get the fluid low enough to suck air into the system there really is no point. Though when the weather gets warmer I'm going to flush the system with new fluid. I only had my rotors turned because the surface was in bad shape from the years it spent in wisconssin. That took the longest because I had trouble finding someone that could turn them that was open on a sunday. Most of the places I went didnt have an adapter for their brake lathe big enough to work on them. I didnt bother having the parking brake drums turned. BTW, I have Satisfied Pro Ceramic pads on mine. They might dust the wheels a bit more and may not last as long as OEM (will find out eventually) but I like their pads and this thing will STOP!
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--Dave 1999 Rodeo LS 3.2 4x4 5 Speed 32x11.50-15 BFG T/A KO 3" Lift - Rancho 9000x Rear No-Slip Locker Flowmaster 2.25" 50 Series There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." - Dave Barry |
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#11
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Re: rear brakes
thanks for all the replies. It looks like I should be able to do this. Any idea which is which when it comes to the two packs of lube? Orange and brown. Also, the one that is the anti squeal, where exactly does it go?
Marc |
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#12
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Re: rear brakes
Quote:
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1998 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4 1996 Ford Dunderbird LX 3.8L |
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#13
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Re: rear brakes
I didn't use the OEM packets with mine. I've got jar of permatex 'synthetic' silicone brake caliper grease. It's green and super sticky. The stuff hangs around a loooong time on pad slides & seems to have worked well on the brake jobs I've used it on. It better be good stuff, I think I paid like $14 for jar from carquest. I'll prolly be able to pass it on to my grand kids
.Joel
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2016 Subaru Forester 2.5i base CVT 2016 Nissan Quest SV |
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#14
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Re: rear brakes
Thanks for all the replies, I think I'm ready to tackle this. I just need the weather to cooperate.
I have aquestion about the calipers. I am just curious what kind of calipers I have. Floating, sliding or fixed? marc |
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#15
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Re: rear brakes
When you seperate the calipers, be sure to open the brake bleed zert to let the fluid out. DO NOT just let it flow back into the resevoir. It usually has all kinds of crud in it and you may find yourself replacing the master cylinder sooner then needed. Brake fluid is cheaper then a master cylinder. If your really ambitious you may want to purge all the fluid and add fresh.
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Life is good with my 97 Passport |
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