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Old 11-16-2005, 07:09 AM
mjohnston65 mjohnston65 is offline
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Question Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!

I have a 2001 Monte Carlo LS 3.4l . My electrical woes started with the occassional turn signals quitting on me. I reset them with the hazard lights through jump starting them. My low engine oil level light comes on daily and I have the perfect level of oil on the stick. My engine coolant teperature gauge quits on me and the radiator fan whines until the check engine light comes on so I pull the pcm fuse and replace it and it drives fine for a day or so only to fail on me again. Any ideas??? Does this simply need reprogrammed? Something replaced? Grounding probs? THe coolant is flushed normally but dexcool really is a horrible coolant. After a recent flush it still has sludge but when I check my gauge it is clean. HELP!!! Update, tonight I had 2 problems 1- low engine oil light and 2- service my traction system soon. This really is starting to sound like my battery can't pull this system or the alternator is slowly going or the electric system is going south fast. My car also hesitates going into second gear. Help?

Last edited by mjohnston65; 11-17-2005 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 11-22-2005, 01:54 PM
CEO Wrench CEO Wrench is offline
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Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjohnston65
I have a 2001 Monte Carlo LS 3.4l . My electrical woes started with the occassional turn signals quitting on me. I reset them with the hazard lights through jump starting them. My low engine oil level light comes on daily and I have the perfect level of oil on the stick. My engine coolant teperature gauge quits on me and the radiator fan whines until the check engine light comes on so I pull the pcm fuse and replace it and it drives fine for a day or so only to fail on me again. Any ideas??? Does this simply need reprogrammed? Something replaced? Grounding probs? THe coolant is flushed normally but dexcool really is a horrible coolant. After a recent flush it still has sludge but when I check my gauge it is clean. HELP!!! Update, tonight I had 2 problems 1- low engine oil light and 2- service my traction system soon. This really is starting to sound like my battery can't pull this system or the alternator is slowly going or the electric system is going south fast. My car also hesitates going into second gear. Help?
This could be a multiple problem or just a bunch of symptoms of one issue. First, flush the coolant thoroughly and use regular antifreeze, not Dexcool. If your car does not have a voltmeter, go to Walmart and buy a digital one that plugs into the lighter plug (cost is around $15). Glance at it from time to time to make sure the voltage stays in the 14 - 14.5 range. If that is fairly consistent, then have the battery load tested. It's possible that it has reached the end of its life, or may have an intermittent short in one of the cells - that can make for some real electrical problems.
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Old 11-29-2005, 10:53 AM
rhayslip rhayslip is offline
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Re: Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!

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Originally Posted by CEO Wrench
This could be a multiple problem or just a bunch of symptoms of one issue. First, flush the coolant thoroughly and use regular antifreeze, not Dexcool. If your car does not have a voltmeter, go to Walmart and buy a digital one that plugs into the lighter plug (cost is around $15). Glance at it from time to time to make sure the voltage stays in the 14 - 14.5 range. If that is fairly consistent, then have the battery load tested. It's possible that it has reached the end of its life, or may have an intermittent short in one of the cells - that can make for some real electrical problems.

I'm having the same trouble with my blinkers quitting as you. I noticed what you said you did, but not sure I understand. Could you explain?
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Old 11-30-2005, 07:39 AM
mjohnston65 mjohnston65 is offline
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Re: Re: Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!

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Originally Posted by rhayslip
I'm having the same trouble with my blinkers quitting as you. I noticed what you said you did, but not sure I understand. Could you explain?

When they quit I go through the motion of a right hand turn with the signal lever. Once I have the lever moved into position I hit the hazard flasher triangle and then turn the hazard off and my turn signal works again. SOmetimes this must be tried a few times but always works in the end and I don't have the problem again for months or weeks depending on what seems mostly on is static in the environment.
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Old 12-12-2005, 01:20 PM
CEO Wrench CEO Wrench is offline
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Re: Re: Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!

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Originally Posted by rhayslip
I'm having the same trouble with my blinkers quitting as you. I noticed what you said you did, but not sure I understand. Could you explain?
You will either need to replace the turn signal switch, or possibly you can fix it. Here's why the switch usually fails: there is a small plastic tab on the switch body (located behind the steering wheel) that breaks off, causing the rotating mechanism to lose contact with the switch body, or only contacts it intermittently. If you jiggle the switch lever forward and backward, the brake lights and turn signals may work properly.

I have replaced these switches before, but figured out a cheap but effective way to fix it instead.

Here's how: I first carefully snipped off the switch tab I mentioned earlier(on the right side), then drilled a small hole where the tab was, and put in a very small round-head fine-thread screw (approx 1/16" diameter by 1/2" long) in far enough to hold these two pieces together enough for them to maintain continuous contact. It worked beautifully, and saved pulling the entire switch out of the column, plus the $60+ for a new switch.

PS - You will need a wheel puller, but you can make an inexpensive steering wheel puller using a large thick flat washer with two holes drilled that are spaced apart the same distance as the two threaded holes in the steering wheel. Get two metric bolts that fit the steering wheel threads, and screw them in evenly. You may need to insert a spacer or two between the steering shaft and the washer, but as you tighten the two bolts, the wheel will pop off.
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