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#1
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I have a 2001 Monte Carlo LS 3.4l . My electrical woes started with the occassional turn signals quitting on me. I reset them with the hazard lights through jump starting them. My low engine oil level light comes on daily and I have the perfect level of oil on the stick. My engine coolant teperature gauge quits on me and the radiator fan whines until the check engine light comes on so I pull the pcm fuse and replace it and it drives fine for a day or so only to fail on me again. Any ideas??? Does this simply need reprogrammed? Something replaced? Grounding probs? THe coolant is flushed normally but dexcool really is a horrible coolant. After a recent flush it still has sludge but when I check my gauge it is clean. HELP!!! Update, tonight I had 2 problems 1- low engine oil light and 2- service my traction system soon. This really is starting to sound like my battery can't pull this system or the alternator is slowly going or the electric system is going south fast. My car also hesitates going into second gear. Help?
Last edited by mjohnston65; 11-17-2005 at 05:52 AM. |
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#2
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Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!
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#3
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Re: Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!
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I'm having the same trouble with my blinkers quitting as you. I noticed what you said you did, but not sure I understand. Could you explain? |
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#4
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Re: Re: Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!
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When they quit I go through the motion of a right hand turn with the signal lever. Once I have the lever moved into position I hit the hazard flasher triangle and then turn the hazard off and my turn signal works again. SOmetimes this must be tried a few times but always works in the end and I don't have the problem again for months or weeks depending on what seems mostly on is static in the environment. |
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#5
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Re: Re: Re: Electrical/coolant gauge/low oil level/ turn signals?? you name it!
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I have replaced these switches before, but figured out a cheap but effective way to fix it instead. Here's how: I first carefully snipped off the switch tab I mentioned earlier(on the right side), then drilled a small hole where the tab was, and put in a very small round-head fine-thread screw (approx 1/16" diameter by 1/2" long) in far enough to hold these two pieces together enough for them to maintain continuous contact. It worked beautifully, and saved pulling the entire switch out of the column, plus the $60+ for a new switch. PS - You will need a wheel puller, but you can make an inexpensive steering wheel puller using a large thick flat washer with two holes drilled that are spaced apart the same distance as the two threaded holes in the steering wheel. Get two metric bolts that fit the steering wheel threads, and screw them in evenly. You may need to insert a spacer or two between the steering shaft and the washer, but as you tighten the two bolts, the wheel will pop off. |
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