Pulling Motor

[GeneP]

Past posts I did described my son's attempt to install a Powerdyne "Power Plate" which immediately broke resulting in the motor swallowing hardware. Since, we have removed the head, checked everything on the top end, removed the swallowed hardware, and reassembled. After putting it back together it had a tap after start-up the would quiet down after a couple seconds. Thinking it was a lifter we pulled the valve covers and couldn't find anything wrong and with it running with the valve covers off we couldn't identify where the tap was coming from other than lower in the motor. We since added some Marvel Mystery oil then some STP thick stuff. The tap has since progressed from a tap to a pretty good KNOCK so I figure its time to start looking for a long block (Time does not allow me to tear the motor down myself). Question is would it be easier to pull the motor alone and leave the tranny or just pull both at the same time.

Truck is a 95 S10 Pkup, 4.3, 2WD, auto, lowered 3".

Thanks,
Gene

[ctesla]

Gene,
engine alone will suffice. once the starter is removed, you can use a pry or larger screwdriver to rotate the flexplate to get the three torque converter bolts, and the actual eng/trans mating bolts, and she's apart.
use a bottle jack and/or block of wood to support the front of the transmission, so when the engine separates, the trans won't drop...
this will help when also stabbing the new engine, as it will give you an alignment with the pins on the trans, and it will still be blocked in the same location.
since the truck is lowered, might be easier to drive it onto ramps, then jack stand it, and pull the ramps and wheels and tires, to allow some clearance below, as you'll need to yank motor mounts (a good time to replace if miles), and exhaust pipes, a great time for headers since the engines out.
if you yank the trans, have a small cup/bucket ready for when the propshaft gets pulled out of the tailshaft... and, at this time, change trans mount, and maybe u-joints and carrier bearing on driveshaft, drain/fill and new filter in trans too, maybe tap and add a metallic drain plug into pan, if it doesn't have a plug in it.
regardless, you might call locally around for some salvage yards may have a 4.3 with less miles than yours for under $600-700.
you could stab this one, keeping your original to rebuild, or piece into the donor. either way, save your core until everything's in, swapped, and running, as you might just need something from yours before turning it over to a parts house or the scrap yard.
in my opinion, it is easier to pull the engine on its own; if it were a FWD car, then yea, drop the whole K-frame- wheel to wheel, and work on it on the floor.
also, while the truck engine is out, heater hoses, dist cap, water pump, fan clutch, battery cables, ANYTHING that will be easier to change without the engine in the bay, DO IT. you will thank yourself if you decide to leave the engine going in; in. you do not want in three months to be fighting something that would have been SO easy now, before it is REALLY winter.

hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing

[GeneP]

Thanks Chris,
Good tips you recommended. He just put headers on it to include a new gibson exhaust. Motor mounts and starter had also been replaced about 6 months ago. He does have a shift kit to install in the tranny. My main concern was how close the back of the motor was to the firewall. Looks like a few busted knuckles to me getting those bolts out. I've had a few motors & tranny's out in my younger years but that was when there was loads of room in the engine compartment even with big blocks & I was full of piss & vigger. Son does most of the labor now. I just point & advise what to do next.

He keeps it pretty clean under the hood so the job shouldn't be that nasty. There are a few bone yards around here to include the "You pick & pull" ones. but with all the rain we had that would suck. He can get a Goodwrench reman from a local dealer for $1,700 w/core charge. I'm leaning towards that just for the sense of security of having a new motor. Hate to go through all the work & have an oil burner or another one that knocks. We'll probably stick a mild cam in it before the install.
Still pissed that he spent the $90 (Against my original better judgement) for the Power Plate just to have it destroy his perfectly running motor. Live & learn I guess..............

Thanks,
Gene

[dugie6551]

I have a 1984 S10 and prefer to pull the motor and trans as one piece. I have done both (just motor and motor/trans). The "knuckle-busters" getting the trans bolts with it still in the truck is the reason I pull both at the same time.

Some advise/experience: After removing the entire front clip (fenders, bumper, rad support, etc.) the first time to remove the motor & trans. I have re-installed everything so it all can be taken apart in under an hour (with air tools and not all the bolts put back in the original spots). I have the fenders on with 4 bolts not 8 (I think), wheel wells come off attached to the fenders. I have found it much easier now to pull off the front clip then crawl under the truck and bust my knuckles.

I have the engine out of my truck now and I am able to move the truck outside while working on the motor. And I also do not have the chance of damaging anything trying to "squeeze" the motor out of the engine bay.

If you pull just the motor, put a piece of steel square stock or bar between the frame rails to support the front of trans with a couple of the bolts. This way you can move the truck out of the way if you need to.

Edit:
Another tip I just thought of: BEFORE you remove the hood bolts; take a drill bit (I used a 1/4" bit) and drill through the hinge and hood. This way when you go to re-install the hood just put the drill bit through the holes in the hinge and hood, which "lines up" the hood in the original spot. If you don't do this you will spend a lot of time trying to adjust the hood bolts to make the hood close properly.

[OverBoardProject]

Kids will be kids.
If that 1 mistake is the worst that he's done in a while you got off lucky.

Besides it'll give you 2 some quality time together.

I didn't have the option of easily hauling the transmission out with my motor since mine is 4x4.
What I fould with the top bell housing bolts is completely remove the motormounts from the block.
Then lower the motor all the way until it's siting on the frame.
It'll give you enough room to reach those bolts.

If you want to pull the transmission with the motor you'll probably have to jack the front of the truck up about a foot or so. Too let the transmission swing down, then out