restoring hints and help

[chevelle_chic]

i plan to buy a 1970 chevelle SS to restore and I was wondering if anybody in here could give me any advice on how I should approach a project like this! You can private message me also! All help will be greatly appreciated!

[ctesla]

...just a few tips from working fab and restore...

instead of conventional spray rig, a gravity feed will eliminate overspray on frame and body
a DeVilbiss # JGA 501 or equivalant works wonders.

as far as adjusting panels to align (fender sits lower than or in farther than door), loosening and shimming doesn't work; try slight pressure with a slapping spoon on the back side of the fender, and a finishing hammer tapping lightly on the edge (2-3") away to align fender and door edges.

if your removing headlight rings and other trim to polish, tape all the protuding tabs, and/or screw then into a scrap piece of plywood; this will keep the tabs from catching a buffing wheel and shooting it across the shop, keep the rings from flying through the air, and save alot of chase time.

you do not want to sandblast back sides of decklids and hoods: this can cause outside panel to warp.
instead, apply paint remover and steam clean. when sandblasting the actual braces on the inner side, use license plate or other small piece of metal and slide along edges to deflect sandblast and avoid warpage of flat panels.

if you remove ANY component for solid painting, after prep, lay out components on saw horses with a sheet of plywood wrapped with masking paper; after painting, parts will be clean of dust and debri, and also not stick to the surface left to dry on.

if you decide to deep clean heavily pitted sheet metal, build your own acid dip tank:
plywood base, 2x4 edges screwed on, a 4mil plastic wrapped over and stapled to sides:
take swimming pool acid in a 1:2 ratio with water in the "bath" and allow submerged parts to soak for 30-60 minutes; rinse parts, use regular phosphoric metal prep by hand, and prime...
pour baking soda (two pounds for every ten gallons) in pool to neutralize acid before dumping.

a Dremel kit is your best buddy for widening holes for trim or insignia and will perform many other tasks.

think through any accessories you want to add prior to painting and pr-drill holes...
if not that far out in thinking, or an afterthought after paint and restore; take two inch masking tape and stick (as a cupped back bowl) around where drilling; this will "catch" most metal chips on its folded out edges of tape rather than sticking on the finished paint work; no scrathes and easy clean-up.

if you don't have a small square edge sander, get one; it saves so much time sanding panels if not pulled from a vehicle, as you can sand right up to the edge of a panel or door...

this is just paint/body/prep---
---not even touching engine build-up, driveline mods, suspension tuning, exhaust fabbing, etc.
hope this helps,
ctesla
if specific questions entail; post it in this website, as I have seen a multitude of talented and intelligent people in these forums;
but do not hesitate to ask,
chris
nrt racing
713.933.5773 (7A-10P central)

[nova68]

all i can say is take your time and do it right dont hack job anything. And be ready to spend many hours on working and getting it right.

[MrPbody]

Try to get a car from the West coast. A lot less body work is generally needed. Mechanicals are easy to get parts for, and plenty of expertise around. Avoid "rust belt" cars (anywhere they spread salt on the roads for ice and snow).