favorite boost gauge

[apostrophe28]

so me and my friend w/ the Evo Viii are looking at gettin boost gauges for our cars, we see all dif. types like autometer and hks but which is the best and which is your favorite?

[1viadrft]

I heard Autometer is complete crap and in-accurate. Inaccuracy and boosting up doesn't mix.

I'm getting a GReddy Warning Boost gauge when the time comes... has memory-playback and a warning setting...

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by apostrophe28

so me and my friend w/ the Evo Viii are looking at gettin boost gauges for our cars, we see all dif. types like autometer and hks but which is the best and which is your favorite?

it doesnt really matter, as long as they work...

im personally getting ready to try out Autometer as i have heard nothing but good.

HKS makes good stuff though.

[1viadrft]

Originally Posted by k3smostwanted

im personally getting ready to try out Autometer as i have heard nothing but good.

Jason... you may want to look into Autometer and get some feedback. I haerd from a couple of guys with Z32's that Autometer tends to be a bit inaccurate...

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by 1viadrft

Jason... you may want to look into Autometer and get some feedback. I haerd from a couple of guys with Z32's that Autometer tends to be a bit inaccurate...

hmm...i will do some research on it before i order.

it will be a while anyways...i just spent another $600 on this damn car and it doesnt even run.

we will see...the only thing i will need right now is a boost guage and my Boost Controller has a built in one that i can use for now. i still need to get my ECU shipped off and re-chipped.

[Broke_as_****]

Originally Posted by k3smostwanted

it will be a while anyways...i just spent another $600 on this damn car and it doesnt even run.

Yeah welcome to TT ownership. Think of it as a small warm up for that engine build you plan on doing in the future.

From:

Originally Posted by 1viadrft

I heard Autometer is complete crap and in-accurate.

To:

Originally Posted by 1viadrft

I haerd from a couple of guys with Z32's that Autometer tends to be a bit inaccurate...

In five posts he will be ready to have Autometers child.

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by Broke_as_****

In five posts he will be ready to have Autometers child.

Originally Posted by Broke_as_****

Yeah welcome to TT ownership. Think of it as a small warm up for that engine build you plan on doing in the future.

oh that is chump change from what i have already spent the past few months but nothing compared to what you have spent over the last several months. that last $600 was for a start on my new brakes at all 4 corners and BOVs.

after i get the car running, i am going to get my brakes back to "Excellent" instead of squeaky. then i will be focusing on suspension...then its back to the performance goodies (fun stuff).

as for engine build, i keep changing my mind but i dont think i will do half as much as you...i think i am just going to do the bottom end strong enough to handle the power i want to produce. then in the future after that i will do some headwork.

[Broke_as_****]

Originally Posted by k3smostwanted

as for engine build, i keep changing my mind but i dont think i will do half as much as you...i think i am just going to do the bottom end strong enough to handle the power i want to produce. then in the future after that i will do some headwork.

Uh...if memory serves all I did was get the pistons heat coated and the rotating assembly balanced because the stock bits were in excellent condition and I'm not trying to push huge power. The only other internal performance upgrade was the cams. Most of the extras I bought were OEM parts like a new water pump I probably didn't need. But if anything was going to give me problems it was probably going to be some small mundane part so it's mostly peace of mind and insurance against having to dig into the engine bay again any time soon.

To give you a realistic idea of what it will cost, I spent around $2200 on my engine internally.

~$300 for ARP head/rod/main bolts
~$200 for the heat coating on the pistons
~$200 for new piston rings, main bearings, engine plugs, and etc
~$1500 in total labor charges for everything from short block tear down to head assembly to connecting rod reconditioning. May sound like alot but when you are going down the long itemized list and remember that a standard labor fee for a good shop is in the area of $90 an hour or more...it was actually pretty cheap.

To go farther:
~$600 for forged pistons
~$600 for aftermarket forged rods
~$250 to get the cylinder heads and valves heat coated (something I was going to do but didn't remember of until after the heads were together...oh well...)

So there is $3650 right there. Add head porting and a valve job if that floats your boat. Plus anything else you are going to do to the block like overboring or coolant galley clean up (though that was something I did myself). Long story short, you can see how this **** gets expensive real quick. You can easily be into an engine $5000-$6000 and not have anything but the long block.

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by Broke_as_****

Uh...if memory serves all I did was get the pistons heat coated and the rotating assembly balanced because the stock bits were in excellent condition and I'm not trying to push huge power. The only other internal performance upgrade was the cams. Most of the extras I bought were OEM parts like a new water pump I probably didn't need. But if anything was going to give me problems it was probably going to be some small mundane part so it's mostly peace of mind and insurance against having to dig into the engine bay again any time soon.

To give you a realistic idea of what it will cost, I spent around $2200 on my engine internally.

~$300 for ARP head/rod/main bolts
~$200 for the heat coating on the pistons
~$200 for new piston rings, main bearings, engine plugs, and etc
~$1500 in total labor charges for everything from short block tear down to head assembly to connecting rod reconditioning. May sound like alot but when you are going down the long itemized list and remember that a standard labor fee for a good shop is in the area of $90 an hour or more...it was actually pretty cheap.

To go farther:
~$600 for forged pistons
~$600 for aftermarket forged rods
~$250 to get the cylinder heads and valves heat coated (something I was going to do but didn't remember of until after the heads were together...oh well...)

So there is $3650 right there. Add head porting and a valve job if that floats your boat. Plus anything else you are going to do to the block like overboring or coolant galley clean up (though that was something I did myself). Long story short, you can see how this **** gets expensive real quick. You can easily be into an engine $5000-$6000 and not have anything but the long block.

thats not so bad...for some reason i thought you went all out on the engine. i thought you bought a whole new valvetrain basically.ehh...

i look to spend a few grand on the engine. i was gonna get all teh ARP bits, forged pistons, forged rods and everything balanced, honed, and cleaned. then just ahve the stock heads rebuilt...

what happened to the upgraded valvetrain broke? i swear you were getting new springs, valves, etc. i thought it was gonna be one high revving SOB.

anyways, we will see...engine build will come when the time presents itself. since i am getting such a late start i dont think i will be doing any major overhauling this coming winter except for turbos, fuel injectors, ported exhaust manifolds, etc.

ehh...what the hell, might as well get the engine rebuilt with forged goodies. just kidding...

[Broke_as_****]

Originally Posted by k3smostwanted

stuff

Thank you, I forgot about the JWT valve springs I put in, so add $367 for that.

ehh...what the hell, might as well get the engine rebuilt with forged goodies. just kidding...

Yes. It starts out as a joke. First time I saw the inconel manifolds I thought "Pfft, I'll never get there."

And...here I am, probably be ordering them finally in the next few weeks, along with the down pipes and turbos.

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by Broke_as_****

Thank you, I forgot about the JWT valve springs I put in, so add $367 for that.



Yes. It starts out as a joke. First time I saw the inconel manifolds I thought "Pfft, I'll never get there."

And...here I am, probably be ordering them finally in the next few weeks, along with the down pipes and turbos.

ehh....well im glad to here your making progress. i will hopefully have mine done in a few weeks, for the most part. i think the only thing i have left is to send my ECU out to get chipped...im sure i will thank of many more things that i forgot and will be forced to do. Twin Turbo modifying is fun, but expensive...

[xXxRocker5150]

You guys ever heard of the company called toucan??? cuz they have some boost gauges too...

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by xXxRocker5150

You guys ever heard of the company called toucan??? cuz they have some boost gauges too...

toucan has ractive gauges and i would never waste my money on any ractive parts...

[xXxRocker5150]

sorry about my newb-ness but what does ractive mean??? Like do they just give an approximation like the stock gauge or what???

[k3smostwanted]

Originally Posted by xXxRocker5150

sorry about my newb-ness but what does ractive mean??? Like do they just give an approximation like the stock gauge or what???

no, ractive is a brand under toucan. basically toucan is just a ownership of a bunch of smaller brands. ractive makes cheap parts that a 16 year old kids can afford to get the look of what a real aftermarket part looks like but doesnt give the same quality.

for example, they will sell a cone airfilter with a tube hooked on the end. just soemthing cheap...well, it looks like a nice cold air intake system but it only cost you $50 instead of the going price of $150. atleast thats how i feel about them...