92 3.1 Sedan possible oil pressure problem

[ONJNo1]

Hi. New reading the forums and have gotten lots of good info, but am stuck. For several months, when I started the car, a large cloud of blue/white smoke intermittently came out of the exhaust, with nothing else showing once the car started. It came more and more frequently. Then, about a week and a half ago, the car would start fine, but once it warmed up, there would be a progressively louder knocking in the upper engine, with a significant loss in power which grew worse as the car heated up...to the point there was almost no power at all. Now, it knocks and has no power even cold. I have been told by several mechanics that only listened to it (never touched the car), that "the oil pump is dead.. you've burned up the bearings, buy a new car". I wish to check the oil pressure (only have a dummy light) and then flush the system per the many posts here (using Marvels myster oil), but I can not find the oil sending unit to attach the oil pressure guage. The Haynes book I have does not even mention it. Any help/ideas would definately help. I can follow the Haynes book if it is detailed enough, but am essentially car stupid.

[jeffcoslacker]

I don't know if it's worth it. It does sound like that motor is toast. It'd be easy to swap it with a good one than try to fix all the damage.

[cadgear]

Oil starvation can create so many problems..I would say go with another engine, even a junkyard one, than try to diagnose and repair all the damage if there was indeed oil starvation. Crank might be bent, journals could be scored, bearings would be toasted, cylinders scored, cam lobes and journals worn/scored..just a lot of things to check and clear. Pretty much an entire lower engine overhaul.

If you are/were burning oil, then you'd want to replace most of your exhaust. Things like O2 sensors and cats don't enjoy an oil dose. The symptoms leading up to it sound like ring problems or maybe valve stem seals, though I think with no power cold or hot now the rings are gone.

I've been checking the oil every other gas-up. I do it out of habit, but I've been called paranoid for doing so.

[ONJNo1]

Good morning all. The problem is ongoing, so I figured I would keep everyone posted.
On a whim (and desperation), I decided to attempt an oil flush using Mystery Oil. I figured it wouldn't hurt since I had already bought all the oil and stuff. Anyway, I warmed up the car alittle, removed the drain plug...and only approximately 1.5 quarts of black sludgy oil came out!
Now, I may be a Sunday School Mechanic.. barely able to change the plugs.. but I know how to read a dipstick.. and mine was telling me I had more oil than I needed. Where did all the oil go? I just had it changed 3,000 miles ago!
Anyway, I replaced the filter and put the Mystery Oil in and 3 new quarts of oil. Started the car... clack, clack, purr... the engine stopped clacking like a madman. There is still a discernable putt-putt-putt from the exhaust at idle. I have been driving it for 25 miles now with that stuff in and the loss of power is gone and everything seems fine so far.
I *have* noticed a slight difference in the engine. Maybe it is my caution, but it feels like it does not have as much power as it used to... meaning, it takes longer to get above 60mph. BUT, if this has fixed the problem, I can live with it.
I do not doubt, that I caused alot of damage to the engine driving around with little to no lubricant.. so I am still waiting for the other shoe to drop..when whatever part I fried decides to give up.
Next step, at 100miles, am gonna replace the oil and filter with better quality stuff and add Slick50.

Thanks for all your inputs. Next project, gotta pull the dash apart to clean off my evap core like everyone else, as I have almost zero air flow in the car also. Happy 4th of July!

[travelair]

I drove mine for 20,000 miles after the tapping started. See one of my other posts for the results of that. Here's the deal, it may last for a few years or it may let go tomorrow. The day mine died sounded no different than any other day. When it suddenly sounds and feels like an invisible helicopter has landed on your hood, you will know its time is up.

[Manny_boy]

Please do not use Slick50, it contains PTFE (teflon), which through lab tests has proven to be more harmful than good for engines. If you want to use an additive, pick up some Lucas, works wonders. Or if you think you've done major damage, pick up a can of Engine Restore (Silver can), it is supposed to fill some of the scratches caused by engine wear, and restore some lost power. Some people I know have used it with good results.

[jeffcoslacker]

Originally Posted by Manny_boy

Please do not use Slick50, it contains PTFE (teflon), which through lab tests has proven to be more harmful than good for engines. If you want to use an additive, pick up some Lucas, works wonders. Or if you think you've done major damage, pick up a can of Engine Restore (Silver can), it is supposed to fill some of the scratches caused by engine wear, and restore some lost power. Some people I know have used it with good results.

Uh oh. You're baggin' on one of the few products I can vouch for. But I think I can straighten this out. I've used Slick 50 for over 15 years now, in many vehicles, and have been very pleased with the results. In fact, the only bad thing I can say about it is, if you have a nylon timing gear on the cam, it will slip and jump time earlier when treated with Slick 50 than without. But, that's further proof that it does what it claims. Normally the friction between the chain and gear will keep them rolling together until the teeth are almost gone. With Slick 50, it is able to slip the links over those little bumps where the teeth used to be, and will slip. This is assuming that the motor wasn't treated until serious wear had already occured in the timing set. If used from new or near new, the nylon gear will last far longer than one in an untreated motor.

Now here is where the trouble starts. Slick 50 is meant to be used to keep a motor in good condition from wearing. It is not meant to "help" a motor in poor condition to run better. This is how the logic works for some people:

"I had a bad noise in my motor, and two days after I put (insert the suspect treatment product name) in my engine, it threw a rod! That stuff is no damn good! Ruined my motor."

No it didn't. You ruined the motor. It was gone before you put the stuff in it. Did you think it was magically gonna rebuild the bottom end while you drove?

I can think of a few reasons not to put Teflon in a motor that is already hogged up with deposits and sludges. Who want's really slippery crud circulating in there?

Use Slick 50 in a new car. Or a well maintained used car. Don't use it as a last resort for a hurting motor. There are other products that are made for this, and some actually will benefit it. Restore is a good suggestion. Lucas is a great product as well. Manny is right in this situation. But I've run 4 bangers past 300,000 miles (without a single internal failure) with Slick 50 every 50,000 miles, you can't tell me it is harmful.

[Manny_boy]

That makes sense...never thought of that...thanks Jeff....