Body work

broughy84 · #1 02-06-2005, 08:58 PM

Well guys, I am getting quite a chunk back from Uncle Sam so I am doing some surgery to my 88. I just finished with the wheel wells on the bed. I really wanted to cut them out and weld new in, but I can't weld.

So I cut all the rust out and bondoed them with fiberglass bondo and then finished it off with lightweight filler. It looks pretty good for the first time I have EVER done body work, or at least I think so. My neighbor is letting me use his garage and air tools so it's really going well. Tomorrow the tool box is comming out, the bed is getting pressure washed real good and then we are going to pull it in the garage and take the bed off. He has a 4000lb winch mounted to the roof of the garage so it will make it easy. We are going to sand blast the bed and put a "rhino" liner on it. I really need to ge the parts ordered to do the rocker panels and cab corners. Anyone have any ideas about the cheapest place to get the weld in pannels? How about those rubber fender flares? I need some to cover the imperfections from my inexperienced trial. Any cheap places to get them? Any prefference on brand? Oh yeah I need a bench seat too. I don't think I will find one cheap though.

We are going to paint this truck Cobalt Black. It's going to be SWEET! Well I will take some pics so yall can see how it's comming and such!

Oh yeah, I am going to take all the rubber off and do away with that shit. I don't really like it, they make the truck look decent, But I am not going to mess with it. I like the nice clean look. I also want to get the 95-98 style mirrors and grille for it! That would be AWESOME!

lonelywolf8588 · #2 02-07-2005, 01:51 PM

Go to LMCtruck.com and order one of their catalogs. You have to get a catalog thought because the online store has only a few of the more popular parts in it and the catalog has all of the parts. They have the lowest prices and pretty much everything to rebuild a truck as long as you have a frame.

abaird · #3 02-07-2005, 04:04 PM

Summit racing has a catalog called truck style that has a lot of aftermarket products. Along with the LMCtruck catalog you should be able to get about whatever you need. You should seriesly think about lowereing it some. Aslo, they make replacement air dams that come with holes for fog lights. That would be sweet too. They are available in LMCtruck. As for the bench seat, look in salvage yards. They might be able to hook you up. You can get the new style mirrors and grille in LMC truck. Check out the the bowtie on my 97. Black with red outline, it would look sweet on a black truck with chrome grille.

broughy84 · #4 02-07-2005, 05:38 PM

Yeah I really like that bowtie...It's cool. I don't know about lowering it though.....I'm not to interested in the lowered look.....If I did though I would want to get rid of the bumper and put a roll pan on it.

Cadillakin'98 · #5 02-08-2005, 12:25 AM

Just a little pointer for ya from a guy who works @ a body shop:

Not trying to critisize, just help you achieve a good lookin truck.

First of all, did you grind 6 to 8" above where you think the rust ended? Whenever you are cutting out rust, you should first gringd it to bare metal about 6 to 8" past where the rust stops. Reason being you might find some hidden rust under the paint.

I know you said you can't weld but I strongly suggest you fill in the cut out pieces with metal. If you cant weld, maybe rivet the patched piece of metal to the body, then bang it into shape (as close as possible) and smooth (as possible). zfrom there you should be able to put a thin layer of bondo to smooth it all out. **The trick to using bondo is to make it less 1/8" thick on the spot you are repairing. 1/16th of an inch would be even better. The thinner you can keep it, the less likely it is to crack.

If yu are going to stick with fiberglassing it, cut out pieces of cardboard to fill in the cut out rusted spots and fiberglass over that. In other words, use the cardboard as a filler. Also, don't mess aroubd when working with fiberglass....USE A RESPIRATOR, GLOVES and all other necessary safty equipment. Fiberglass is some nasty stuff to work with and very harmful to your body if even the smallest particle is inhaled. WEAR A MASK, TRUST ME ON THIS.

Like I said, I'm not trying to criticize you, I don't know what experience you have, but just trying to offer you some pointers to help you along your project. Have fun and good luck with it

broughy84 · #6 02-08-2005, 12:46 PM

Yeah I ground it all out about 6 inches around the rust area. I don't mind constructive critisism. It's helps down the road when I do this again. I pop riveted metal screening in place and bondoed over that.

broughy84 · #7 02-09-2005, 09:48 PM

Well here are some pics. I just took them and it is dark, not to mention snowing so my appologies.

This is the rear driverside quarter of the bed. Note the molding has all been removed. As it will STAY OFF!

Here is a shot of the same side, with the door, I have rough sanded everything with 40 grit, then ran 120 over it and primed it. To get all the gummy tape off I used a wire brush on an angle grinder.

Here is the tailgate. Note that I have removed all the trim and taillights. Primed under the taillights. The Silver and Black piece that goes across the center of the tailgate that say CHEVROLET, is going to remain off. What I want to get is a newer set of badges and put them on. Just the small ones that say Chevrolet and Silverado seperately. If anyone has any of these that they have taken off their newer style trucks. Let me know and I will take `em!

Cadillakin'98 · #8 02-12-2005, 05:59 PM

I can hook you up with some emblems if you really want them. I work in a body shop so I have plenty of them lying around. Boss shouldn't mind me "cleaning up" a little! BUT....it will cost you....

I would like to have the big Chevrolet banner that was on the tailgate if it is still in fairly good condition. I want to hang it up in my workshop area for a little decor!! So it doesn't have to be perfect, but still want it to look decent. Let me know if that sounds fair and I'll get you every emblem you want. And of course the emblems I would get for you will either be new or "like new". Nothing faded, broken , etc.

As far as your handy work, not to shabby! Glad to hear you rivited in metal pieces, then bondo (since welkding couldn't be an option). Hopefully you understood what I was saying about trying to keep the bondo less than 1/8th of an inch thick after sanded smooth. One suggestion I have is to use 80 grit (not 40), then 120 after that, then 220, then 320, then 600, then 1000.....oops, a litlle ahead of myself!! Well, I would use 80 grit, then 120 for now. As you progress I'll guide you if you would like. By the way, are you using a long block??? The tool I'm talking about is approx 1.5 ft long, 4 inches wide, flat where you put sandpaper.... If you aren't using one of these, get one, then I'll explain the purpose and goal for this tool. If you have one, great and unless yo say different, I'll assume you know how to work it.

Last thing, that wire brush thing you described....ouch!! I advise not using anything like this, you'll end up greating more work for yourself. Oher than that, lookin' good!!

broughy84 · #9 02-12-2005, 07:41 PM

Well here's an update with pics!!!

This was this morning, My little helpers helping me undercoat the wheel wells there. (He is my neighbor's 8 year old)

Here it is minus the grill and bumper. I took them off so I wouldn't have to worry about overspray! Notice the blue truck in the garage, we painted that one today!

Here's my buddy again, helping me sand. That's 80 grit, then we used 120, then 220.

Cadillakin'98, I understood about the bondo. Yeah that sounds like a good deal. The banner that ran across it is in the back of my other truck. It is curled in a big circle from being pulled off. It's still in decent shape. I'll take a picture of it and send it to you on this thread, let me know if you still want it and I will find out how much it will be for me to ship it, can you give me a ZIP CODE just for the hell of pricing? I will have to wait for tomorrow to come for the picture, as it will look like shit with the flash on tonight!

TaNK_Em · #10 02-12-2005, 08:03 PM

Looks great, Keep it up, Cadillakin'98 you say you work at a body shop right? Wheres the best bang for my buck for a bumper 89-97 or whatnot model. My best friends dad works at American Truck and Fleet repair he says he can get me one at wholesale prices but im just looking around. Was going to also check the salavge yard.

- Kevin

Cadillakin'98 · #11 02-13-2005, 10:07 PM

Tank Em,

If you can't find one at a salvage yard thats in decent shape, I would get your friends dad to get you one. Chances are he can get it 20 to 25% off list prices. Also, he might use one of the bumper places that sells OEM bumpers that have been reconditioned. Since these are metal bumpers we have (and not those plastic pieces of $#*^ on cars now days), I see nothing wrong with using a reconditioned one. Anyways, those are your two best bets to save money and get one that fits right. Stay away from those aftermarkets out there. You would be better off just going ahead and putting your money in the trash can than using one of those, takes less energy that way!!

Broughy94,

Lookin good man! These pics also let me see a couple of things that I can help you with also. Please remember, just trying to help you, not criticize your work. First, looks like you got a good crew helping you out there, but the sander he is using I hope is only to knock the paint down to get area ready to be worked on, and not for the purpose of making everything smooth and straight. You see, once your panels are repaired, you should be sanding with blocks only. Otherwise yoiu are cutting into the surfaces unevenly which will create high and low spots that you will see after its painted. Get those long sanding blocks that are about 1.5 ft long and 4" wide. Make sure you keep the block flat on the body and sand in a ////// or a \\\\\ pattern to get it evenly sanded. You can start with either 220 or 320 with that block. 220 on panels with heavy primered areas near bondo work, then 320 lightly over all primered areas (including where you just sanded with 220) If you rather be safe, just use 320 over primered areas until you have knocked it smooth all over. Be sure to not break through the pimer (exposing bondo) too much. If you get a little bondo showing through, thats fine but if you get alot showing, prime it again. Remember the //////// pattern or \\\\\\\\\\ pattern. Especially around curves. Use the ////// or \\\\\\ pattern but a little more ====. Hope that makes sense to you. Tell me if you don't understand.

Second, I'm not sure if you are one of those people that thinks you have to sand all the paint off or the whole truck has to be primed first......STOP!!! These things are not necessary. The more primer, the more work you create, and of course the more work created by the more paint that gets stripped off. Not sure if you are one of those that thinks this way, but if so, stop creating unnecessary work.

Last thing, on exposed bare metal, are you using a self-etching primer?? Make sure you do ONLY ON BARE METAL, then prime over with what you are using.

As far as that banner, as long as it looks decent and not really creased anywhere, I'd still swap you for the emblems you need or want. The way you described it rolled up sounds great to me. Anways, my zip (or one you can use for pricing) is 75083. Any futher info of that nature please email or private message me. Wether you are requesting or giving info of that nature. Keeps us both safer I guess. Anyways dude, keep up the good work!! Oh yeah, don't worry about a pic of the banner, can you get a good one of the blue truck you painted instead?!

TaNK_Em · #12 02-13-2005, 10:10 PM

Alright, Thanks for your advice I will be looking into that this spring.

- Kevin

Cadillakin'98 · #13 02-13-2005, 10:17 PM

No prob, should be about $100 by the way

TaNK_Em · #14 02-13-2005, 10:26 PM

Thats it? Not to bad of a price i was thinking it was going to be in the $200-300 doller range. Is the bumper going to come with new bolts or am i going to have to buy that seperate. I think the bumper is attached to the frame with just two bolts or something i tryed takeing it off with a air rachet but those things are rusted on there pretty damn solid here is a picture of my current bumper hehe ha!:

I also have a rocker panel that i need to fix i got the bondo and whatnot my friends dad said to back the screen with newspaper any other advice?

- Kevin

Cadillakin'98 · #15 02-13-2005, 10:41 PM

Is there rust on the rocker panel? If so, cut it off, replace with sheet metal and weld, then grind smooth, then bondo, then etc., etc.

Your bumper is attached to bumper brackets (2) which are held on with a total of 8 bolts. 4 holding brackets onto frame, 4 for bumper holding the brackets. No I do not believe the bumper will come with new bolts. But it might come with new license plate lights. Just depends on where you buy it from. The bumper places down here are not the same as the ones in the tundra where you live! Just playin dude, dont get mad.

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