More help with my first eclipse...

[lorddarkice]

ok, so here is wtf is up.

things you should know: the car is being datalogged so i know everything the logger can tell me, and although i am not a mechanic, i do know a good bit about real car work.

bought it with a busted timing belt.
had the head rebuilt, new B belt, T belt, water pump, sparkplugs.

Currently known broken: the vacume temp sending unit, the one on the therm housing with the two Vacume lines that split to four going to the EGR and something else. cant find a replacement for it...

put it back togeather, found out the MAFS was busted, replaced that.

the car idles fine, with no load it will free rev to around 5k RPM, no knock, but will act as if spark was cut off, or perhaps fuel cut, something to that extent. in first it would run great till 4k or so. 3rd will not even drive, with 2nd being somewere in the middle.

so after that i replaced: air filter, fuel (was 5 months old), fuel filter, spark plug wires, PCV vavle. (temp sending still broken)

that is were the car is. currently it is still doing the same thing, although before it fucks up it is running MUCH better than it was. also, sometimes, not always, there is some white smoke comming from the exhaust. as if it were burning water, seems to have no impact on car's performance not sure what to make of it, it started AS i was adding new gas to the car...


so, things from datalogger that might help...

at one point i decided to rev the car up till it hit the "cutoff" and then hold it there to see what happens. there was 0 knock at first, then the knock shot up between 35-41 at varius points for the 2-3 seconds i held it. the whole time the RPM was falling (giving it 100% WOT). INJP was between 10-16. the advance went from 25% to 5% (at high knock). MAFS readings between 1000-400 and were consistent with RPM graph. the fuel trims were not affected.

so, under 'normal' driving... car seems to do fine, untill it reachs the magic point of cutoff(?) . nothing that flags any attention. the only odd thing is that if you rev it up, then just back off the gas the car will almost die; if you are hitting the brakes it will die. this might just be a side effect, or could be because of the broken V line. brake booster line is attached. also, at times while comming down from higher RPM (after stalling/cutingout) the INJP will go to 0? not sure if this is normal for this car.



other things...
the donor MAFS was from a galant VR4 because the guy went to the GM MAF and had it laying around (free!) i dont think this is any diff. my maf is not broken, just the honeycomb (top and bottom) got fucked up so it wasn't reading right. i unpluged the MAF just to see what would happen and the car did the same thing it was doing, but at a much lower RPM. also, the INJP was very low (2.4 at 3k rpm) and knock was picking up 1-4. so is it possable i have a NA maf? not sure if he swapped in the 4G63, or if it was a real VR4.

i am wandering if the problem is water in the motor? the white smoke looks a whole lot like water to me. could it be the turbo is leaking water into the exhaust or into the intake? also, could the intake manifold be leaking water into the intake air? i didn't have a diegrinder so i hand cleaned it (not the best eather.). not sure if i am acctually loosing water, if i am it is not a noticable amount.

when you let the car get really really hot you can hear water boil. normal?

also it advances the idle some 40% sometimes?



ok, that is about all i can think of. this tuesday or thursday i have a freind of the faimly who is going to look at it... engeneer who was once a mechanic for 10 years, now designs cars! i go to him for just about everything i cant figure out... but i would rather figure it out on my own (with others help) if anyone wants anything else from the logger post it and i can tell you.

[l_eclipse_l]

Try re-gapping your spark plugs to around .28-.30. That might fix your problem with the rpm cutoff.

Sounds like you have a coolant leak, or a bad head gasket. That might explain the white smoke.

Does your car ever overheat past the middle section of the temp guage after running for awhile? You might want to flush the cooling system and put some new shit in. 50/50 coolant and water.

[lorddarkice]

no it never overheats... i'll try the GAP on the plugs... i cant remember what i gaped them to, or if i even did lol.

[sganc4life_4]

For coolant, I usually just put an entire bottle in, then the rest water. Turns out to be around 70-30 at the highest, but it runs great once I flush the coolant.

[l_eclipse_l]

Originally Posted by sganc4life_4

For coolant, I usually just put an entire bottle in, then the rest water. Turns out to be around 70-30 at the highest, but it runs great once I flush the coolant.

50/50 is the recommended concentration, and what most people agree is the best.

[sganc4life_4]

actually on the back of the bottle, it says newhere from that to 70-30 is fine, if i remember correctly

[Gsx_hooptie]

Coolant mixture depends on temperature and driving requirements. Some run more, some run less. Either way, it's not very sensitive. 50/50 or 70/30 would be fine for a DD. I run less antifreeze than water, personally.

lorddarkice: I don't know where to start, your problems are over my head. I'd do as eclipse said and start with the simple stuff: check and gap the plugs. Water shouldn't be boiling, swap out the old coolant. When you put the head back on did you replace the HG and check for engine/head warping? Most obviously, I think, double check that the timing belt is just right. Even one tooth off is bad times. I'll let you know if I see a vacuum temp unit on my E-Bay journey today

I hope someone will chime in with the datalogger stuff. I'm lost on that.

[lorddarkice]

the car broke the timing belt it didn't overheat, but the head was resurfaced along with the buildup (acctually, magnafluxed, hot tanked, resurfaced and rebuilt).


what is the thing directly UNDER the intake side of the intake manifold? the thing on the block. it has two vacume lines attached to it? because the temp sending lines go to that and the EGR is not reading a temp. wandering if that is having something to do with it?