'99 Electrical Problem--Help Needed

[jboler]

I have a 99 model LX, that will not keep a battery charge. I have recently installed a new battery, and a new alternator. I continue to have the same problems.

Any ideas?

[garync1]

will it keep its charge through the day and over nite it wont crank.?? If so you have somthing pulling from the system.. Also did you have the system checked with a volt meter to make sure the charge is getting to the battery. If not do so it could be a relay somewere...hope this helps

[busboy4]

Hi Jboler

I knew a guy locally with the same type of problem on his '98. It turned out his rear wiper was out of postion and continued to draw power in an attempt to "park" itself after the vehicle was shut off - that is what Ford said anyway.

Sleuthing these problems out is tough. What most would say to do is to hook up an ammeter "between" the battery and the van and check for/measure current draw. Then one-by-one remove a fuse and see if the draw is diminished with that particular fuse pulled. If so, you have narrowed down the items which might be your problem. You then have to check items on that particular fuse for electrical draw after you have shut down/switched off the van. It is a tedious process, but what a DIY'er must do to track a random electrical draw.

I of course assume you have checked the usual suspects of dome lights, glove box lights etc.

Good luck, let us know what you come up with.

[jboler]

Originally Posted by garync1

will it keep its charge through the day and over nite it wont crank.?? If so you have somthing pulling from the system.. Also did you have the system checked with a volt meter to make sure the charge is getting to the battery. If not do so it could be a relay somewere...hope this helps

For the first couple of days, I could charge the battery over night, and it would run fine a couple of days. Then you would wake up, and it wouldn't turn over.

Now its actually surging while driving. I suspect that the cable between the battery and the alternator is bad. Is there anyway of testing that? Also, the parts store told me that this van could you either a 110 amp alternator, or 130 amp. I installed a 110. Could that be a potential problem?

Thanks.

[garync1]

If the line you think is bad such as frature or fray I could see there being a problem and if you have a fully equiped windstar you may have the wrong alt. The best way to check is to run a check on the system.. 14-15 volts should be going back to the battery not always true but anything lower than 12 its not getting it charge. as for the surge it possable its starving for amps..as the volts get to low to operate the system.. Advanced Auto or Autozone will do this for free or if you have a volt meter you can do it your self.

[DRW1000]

Originally Posted by jboler

For the first couple of days, I could charge the battery over night, and it would run fine a couple of days. Then you would wake up, and it wouldn't turn over.

Now its actually surging while driving. I suspect that the cable between the battery and the alternator is bad. Is there anyway of testing that? Also, the parts store told me that this van could you either a 110 amp alternator, or 130 amp. I installed a 110. Could that be a potential problem?

Thanks.

Excellent advice here.

Do remembr that some items do continually draw current to keep the memory live (such as the radio presets etc) and the remote function as well as anti theft. These should be extremely low draws (a few milliamps or so).

Also if you have an ohmmeter inline with the battery do not attempt to start or turn on high currect devices as this may (will) fry the ammeter.

As was suggested ensure that you have 14 or more volts when the vehicle is operating indicating that the battery is charging. You should get at least 12.6 when the vehicle is off.

You could try after a good drive to disconnect the negative terminal and measure the battery voltage. then measure in the AM. This will tell you if the battery holds the charge without any drain.

[SteveLauben]

I have a 99 LX 3.8 with the same prob. The fuel pump relay clicks like crazy even with no key in the ignition. The fuel pump sounds like its constantly trying to pump. I replaced the relay and the battery and was good for 2 years. This summer I heard the clicking again but it was so intermittent that I ignored it till this fall. The van was dead one morning. We jumped it and took it to the shop but they could not find anything wrong. I had them do the relay again and they charged the battery and we were good for 2 weeks. Died again. I gave the battery 6 amps overnight and were in good shape again. My best guess is that the relays are cheap and prone to freaking out in low voltage conditions causing rapid battery drain. My wife drives the van and takes many short trips which may not allow the battery to recharge leading to the low voltage situation. My plan is to trickle charge the battery once per month through the winter. Comments welcome.

[DRW1000]

Originally Posted by SteveLauben

I have a 99 LX 3.8 with the same prob. The fuel pump relay clicks like crazy even with no key in the ignition. The fuel pump sounds like its constantly trying to pump. I replaced the relay and the battery and was good for 2 years. This summer I heard the clicking again but it was so intermittent that I ignored it till this fall. The van was dead one morning. We jumped it and took it to the shop but they could not find anything wrong. I had them do the relay again and they charged the battery and we were good for 2 weeks. Died again. I gave the battery 6 amps overnight and were in good shape again. My best guess is that the relays are cheap and prone to freaking out in low voltage conditions causing rapid battery drain. My wife drives the van and takes many short trips which may not allow the battery to recharge leading to the low voltage situation. My plan is to trickle charge the battery once per month through the winter. Comments welcome.

I have never expierienced a relay problem first hand on my 99 but the symptoms you descriped in regards to the low level voltages and the effect on the relays and your theory is consistent with what others have suggested.

Are you on the original battery? Maybe it is not accepting the charge that well. Is there oxidation on the terminals or other end of the cables? Perhaps something else is draining your battery while the vehicle is running and is "stealing" power that would otherwise be avaible for the charging needs. A charging system should be able to "top" up the battery after a normal start fairly quickly.

[jboler]

Well now I am clueless. I've replaced the battery, replaced the 110amp alternator with a 130amp (all of which tested good), and still have the same problem. The charging system is quite simple, but I can't figure this out.

I'm at loss here. Is there a relay that could be causing this problem?

[LeSabre97mint]

Originally Posted by jboler

Well now I am clueless. I've replaced the battery, replaced the 110amp alternator with a 130amp (all of which tested good), and still have the same problem. The charging system is quite simple, but I can't figure this out.

I'm at loss here. Is there a relay that could be causing this problem?

Hello

With the engine running, put a volt meter across the battey terminals. You should get around 14.5 (above 13 anyway) volts.

If you think it's a relay causing trouble, with the battery disconnected, put an OHM meter across the battery cables, and see how many OHMs you get. Make sure things that could be on without the key are off. (ie. cel phone chareger....etc..) I'm not sure what's normal on a vehical that is functioning properly(hopefully someone else will fill this in for us), but if you see it's high start pulling fuses\relays\Maxi fuses. When you see it drop check out that area that the fues\relay... pertains to. This will take time.

Regards

Dan

[DRW1000]

I agree with Lasabremint.

If a battery does not have enough of a charge to start the car then either it is not charging correctly, the battery is not holding the charge or it is being drained excessively.

[jboler]

With the engine running, put a volt meter across the battey terminals. You should get around 14.5 (above 13 anyway) volts.

12.5 is as good as it gets. Usually, it's down between 11.5 and 12.

[DRW1000]

12.5 volts across the battery terminals while the engine is running is too low.

You could have purchased a defective alternator or battery. You could also have oxidation between the cables and terminals. I assume the regulator is part of the alternator.

Did you run the test will all of the accesories off? If not see if that makes a difference.

[jboler]

Originally Posted by DRW1000

12.5 volts across the battery terminals while the engine is running is too low.

You could have purchased a defective alternator or battery. You could also have oxidation between the cables and terminals. I assume the regulator is part of the alternator.

Did you run the test will all of the accesories off? If not see if that makes a difference.

After the system failed, I took both the battery and the alternator off of the vehicle and Autozone test them. Both of them tested good. And it is my understanding that the regulator is built on to the alternator.

[DRW1000]

Originally Posted by jboler

After the system failed, I took both the battery and the alternator off of the vehicle and Autozone test them. Both of them tested good. And it is my understanding that the regulator is built on to the alternator.

If you rule out the battery and the alternator then either:

1) The proper charge is not getting to the alternator because something else is drawing the current and there isn't enough left over for the battery.

2)There is resistance (Oxidation) in the path to the battery

3) The battery is being drained while the vehicle is off.