Information on a 1991 Lumian Euro 3.1

[NeonKnight]

Okay, im the proud owner of a 1991 Lumina Euro 3.1.

I was wondering, How much horsepower and torque do these cars run stock?

I installed a Wannabee cold air intake with a K&N filter, Its kind of like a shortram, runs very nice when the engine is cold. I can floor the car and it swerves pretty good.

The car feels like it has some decent balls. I just think it accelerates a little bit slow on the freeway for my taste. when you go from a light and floor it you can feel that overdrive kick in, and everything else. You feel those rpms jump, and a VERY nice LOUD roar from under the hood. Once you get those high rpms, about 5k the intake sounds so great.

I really just want to know some info on this car. Would also help if anyone can tell me common problems with this car, Besides the Dash, and Crappy calipers in the rear i found out the hard way on that one.

a Bill from big-o tires, with my brothers 10% off since he worked there. Total came out to $630.00

that was for 1 new rotor, 1 laythed rotor, Rear break pads, Front right caliper(torn boot how the hell i dont know??) Bleed brakes replace fluid, i think that was about it. then labor of course, but yea $$$ pretty bad.


The car has 142.X30ish just rolled over yesterday. Shes a good car. i hot rod her too much, but she loves it it wasnt a granny car my neighbor drove it well. Made a great present.

Also the paint is the Torch red color, And the touch up paint is sooo much darker than the normal paint. I guess due to fading. I have a spot on the driver side that is oxidized, the front bumper is nothing but oxidized. And then the hood on the driver side crease is cracking and bubling in the clear coat. But thats the only place. Anything i can do to fix or stop that???


Tomorrow i finally get a chance to wash her. We have been aticipating rain for the last few days here in california. But it finally came today and thats supposed to be it. SHes gonna get a nice wax, shine, some mag&aluminum cleaner.

The other thing wrong with the car, it leaks oil an or tranny fluid. I know it was leaking tranny fluid cuz i had put a bottle in there, and the next thing i know in a month i went to go make a turn and the gears didnt grab, grand father told me it was low on fluid. Put more in had same problem month later. I crawled under the car, Which imho is filthy as all hell. and tightned the tranny pan up. Since then i havent had problems. But supposedly the tranny pan gasket is bad, says my neighbor. and the oil pan gasket is bad also. i hear the oil pan has to be taken out while the engine is dropped.. too much work for me. And i know for a fact that its not the valve covers leaking oil since i had my intake manifold gasket go out a while back and it was replaced along with new Valve covers.

what ever you all can give me i appreciate.

Ill post some pics for you guys tomorrow. after i ahve shined her right

[jeffcoslacker]

Since you already did the intake gaskets, that's about the only major issue to contend with. I believe the 3.1 puts out 170 hp, not sure if I've ever seen torque figures, but I know by seat of the pants it is good for the displacement, especially at low to mid rpm. Highway pickup is a bit slow, unless you stretch the cable and get the double-downshift, at which point it goes like a rocket, but seems hard on the driveline.

I have 118,000 on my '97, it is still tight, no major leaks, uses about 1/2 qt oil between 5000 mile changes. I put a K+N panel filter in it and busted out three 1-1/2" holes in the airbox to let it inhale easier (and make some noise!)

The gaskets on the oil and trans pans are an integral-carrier type, with rubber molded around a metal core with torque limiters around the bolt holes, are very durable and re-useable. Usually if they leak, a retorquing will correct it.

A lot of comments are made about excessive noises at start-up with the 3.1's, especially in colder weather. They are prone to piston skirt slap and valve train noises until warmed up. Perfectly common and normal for these.

Your year still had the old style dogbone roll restrictor mounts on top front, they were breakage prone. But cheap and very easy to fix, so who cares? Crunch all you want, we'll make more.

[jeffcoslacker]

P.S. learn to work on it yourself. That brake job in parts (if bought by you from parts store):

Pads: $35 (if you got really primo ones)
Rotor ~$20 each, new
Caliper $35-45 each

Did they correct the stuck slides in the rear? If not, the rotors will be rusted junk again in a couple of months.

[NeonKnight]

I have no idea, ALl the parts they used were AC delco. except for the breaks. They used some semi metallic things, which were like $24 or so. i think duralast im not sure.

I dont hear a piston slap. never have. Sometimes when the car has been warm if i drop it down to second gear while sitting in the drive way i hear a weird noise, i dont know if its a whine or buzz. its kind of odd. I might record a short video of the car, a small tour of it ya know Also let you guys hear that sound. hehe.

Im going to take some pics tomorrow, i spent 3 and a half hours cleaning the exterior of my car. still need to get the interior.

Also, i think my muffler is getting to sound a lil worn out. Its 8 yaers old. Im thinking of putting some Glass packs on my car, Any suggestions on what to get?

[Manny_boy]

NeonKnight, welcome to the madness!

Jeff mentioned the dogbones - roll restrictor mounts, that are prone to breakage, but there is a company that has solved that problem.
They created an aluminum billet dogbone with polyurethane bushings instead of rubber. The redesigned dogbone futher reduces engine roll and has the effect of getting more usable torque to the ground where we need it. I put 'em on my car and I can feel the difference. I would recommend them to anyone who has the upper torque strut mounts.

I don't want to break the forum rules by posting sites, so if you want the info about the dogbones PM me.

Jeff, I didn't know that the 97's don't have the dogbone . I haven't had much of an opportunity to spend wrench time on a '97. My buddy has one, but since I taught him to work on his own lum, I don't see under his hood much.

[NeonKnight]

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

P.S. learn to work on it yourself. That brake job in parts (if bought by you from parts store):

Pads: $35 (if you got really primo ones)
Rotor ~$20 each, new
Caliper $35-45 each

Did they correct the stuck slides in the rear? If not, the rotors will be rusted junk again in a couple of months.

Well i have no idea what stuck slides are, i asked my bro and he looked at me funny, and said he doesnt know.

I usually do all the work on my car, But this time my brother told me and my father that it would be a pain in the ass, and gave my father the impression it couldnt be done by the 3 of us. I knew i should have taken it to my grandfather. He used to be a GM tech for a long time. hes retired now.

Thanks for all the input guys.

I was also thinking of finding a 89 - 90 Grand prix and steal the Turbo off of it, And also take the manifold and intercooler etc. Throw it into my car. see how sweet she runs then
the fact is finding that car lol