93 Rodeo 3.2 Won't start

[Bonzmobile]

I have searched the archives and found similar problems, but their solutions have not worked. Truck has 204K miles and was running great. Tried to start it cold the next day and the engine just cranks but will not start. No wierd noises. Valve train is operating. Here is what I know.

-I do have spark to all six plugs. The plugs are new.
-I do not have power at the fuel pump. Fuse is good. I replaced the relay and the fuel filter, but no change. I can use a jumper wire at the relay box and get the pump to work, but still won't start.(fuel tank is full)
-Check engine light and the blower do not come on when the key is turned to the ignition position. If I pull the charge relay the blower will work. Is this a clue?
-ECM relay and Charge relay are good.
-Just removed/ refit alternator and it checked out OK. What a PITA!
-Battery posts and clamps are real good and clean.

-Cleaned all of the following and tried to start it after each one; main power to relay box and to alternator, ground to alternator, ground to battery tray, ground to frame right behind alternator, two grounds from valve covers, two grounds on intake, and one ground on DS fender by master cylinders.

So what the heck have I missed? This ones got me stumped.
Thanks in advance for your responses!

[Cat Fuzz]

Sounds to me like it might be a problem with the ignition switch but this is one of those things I could probably figure out only if I had the truck in my own garage. You might need to find some wiring diagrams to help you.

[2eyefishclaw]

Llook fro three connectors on the pass side under the hood they may be on the inside of the fender or somewhere under the p/s resivoir disconnect them look for corrosion or water in them or maybe even just poor connection in one or more of them its pretty common

[Bonzmobile]

Cat Fuzz,
You wouldn't be heading to Chicago any time soon? I do have the Haynes manual so I will try to check that out, thanks.

2Eye,
The rain just stopped so I went out to check those connections. Three connectors were black, green and blue and mounted to the fender under the brake master. All three had multi colored wires going in and out.All were dirty outside but clean inside. No luck. Tried to wiggle each with the ignition switch on and the blower motor switched to high. No luck.

The pass side had only two connectors by the relay box. One black one gray. White and white with stripes wires going in and out.Clean inside too. No luck. Did the wiggle thing with these too. No luck.

Willing to try anything at this point so please keep the ideas coming.
Thanks!

[Bonzmobile]

OK, last night I made a little progress but now even more stumped. There is a thin ground (black with a couple silver dots) wire up high on the pass side inner fender between the firewall and the relay box. I unbolted this while the ignition was switched on and the fuel pump cycled and blower came on for two seconds. The check engine light came on too!

Tried to start it but starter would only spin motor for a second then stop. I can ground that wire and hear the ECM relay clicking. Tried to start it a few more times with the wire still ungrounded and all of a sudden it started! Runs a little rough and dies when you touch that wire to ground.

Tried to start it again and the starter jerks the motor with quick little jabs. (I can see the fan jump so I know it is not the solenoid just clicking.) Kept trying it and it started again after a few minutes. Thought about driving it but didn't want to get stuck somewhere. Let it run until it got good and warm then shut it off and watched the games last night.

This has got to narrow things down a bit, but I have no idea where to go from here. HELP?

[Bonzmobile]

Got it running again like in previous post with that little ground wire disconnected. Let it get warmed up and thought I would try to drive it around. Released the emergency brake and within 10 seconds it runs really rough and dies. I was able to duplicate this three more times in a row! Then gave up.

Any suggestions? I'm running out of ideas, time, patience and enthusiasm.

Or any good dealer or import shop in the west Chicago 'burbs?

Thanks.

[Bonzmobile]

Any last minute thoughts? I hate to take it to someone. But I think I'll have to have it towed to a shop tomorrow.

[93 Rodeo]

Please le me know if you figure this one out. I have the same issues, and have tried just about every thing that has been suggested on the threads. I broke down and replaced the alternator last night, and no help. Thinking of shooting the the poor thing and putting it out of its misery.

93 Rodeo 3.2 2WD 5speed, 168,XXX miles

[2eyefishclaw]

just getting back to this I dont habe any new info I searched around and found nothing the only other thing I could think of if you have not already tried is cleaning all of the under hood grounds and installing a star washer between the body and eyelet of the wire

[93 Rodeo]

Been there done that, It is a real head scratcher.

[Bonzmobile]

Thanks for your replies! Nice to know I'm not the only one '93 Rodeo.'

2eye, I thought I had cleaned the grounds well, but noticed that they really don't ground to the sheetmetal. The sheetmetal that the eyelet contacts under the bolt is painted. They seem to ground to the washer on the bolt which would then use the threads of the bolt/nut as the final connection. With this in mind I will go thru all of the female threads with a wire brush and add a star washer as well. Do you star washer all of your customers vehicles to try to prevent this problem?

Thanks!

[Bonzmobile]

1:30pm Friday

Hey '93 Rodeo',
Go pull your #8 in dash fuse. (Labeled Engine Back.L) It's a 10 amp. Let me know if it's blown. I could swear I checked mine but now having second thoughts. Trying to figure out if I recently did something or if it's been blown all along.
Thanks!

6:45pm Friday

OK, it gets wierd again. Following the Haynes manual I checked the connections for items that use the #8 fuse. Disconnecting each one and installing a new fuse with the ignition on just to watch the fuse blow (voltmeter in dash dropping like a rock every time). Then I pulled the plug on the cruise control module in the pass. side kick panel and the fuse didn't blow! Damn truck started right up too! Let it warm up and drove around for 15 minutes. Parked it turned it off and tried to restart it and the damn fuse blew again! Aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now What???!!!

[Bonzmobile]

Saturday 5:45pm
Ripped more of the dash apart to figure out where the white/yellow wire from #8 fuse goes. Found a harness connector behind the drivers side headlight. Pulled it apart and checked the fuse and it didn't blow. Truck started right up multiple times. This is good!

This harness goes under the engine, past the starter and connects to the tranny at the reverse light switch, the neutral switch, the speedo/odo and also to the O2 sensor.

Any history of this harness going bad? Or do you think it's a bad switch?
Feel like I'm getting closer............

[Bonzmobile]

Well........ I FINALLY figured it out!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It was those damn ham-fisted goons at Jiffy Lube who messed it up. After they checked the oil level in the manual tranny they tightened up the inspection plug on the side of the tranny and snagged/pinched/crushed the wires going to a sensor!!!!! I'm guessing it was the reverse light sensor that is on the pass. side up high on the tranny, above the inspection plug. That insp. plug has a wide flange on it and the wires got trapped behind it as the plug was tightened causing a short and blowing the #8 fuse.

Guess I've learned a few things from this.
1. This truck is very, very sensitive to electrical changes. They seem to affect it in ways that defy logic. Ahhhh computers!

2. Clean your grounds! I can now eat off of mine.

3. Trust this board to help. It did not give me the exact answer, but set me on the right path to find it. Perseverance and a Haynes manual can really help too. So can beer... (Trucks broken, you're not driving anywhere!)

4. Eliminate the obvious right away. I missed the blown fuse. I didn't realize it until I pulled it out completely. It had a tiny break that was VERY hard to see.

5. Take your truck to someone you trust! Or better yet, fix it yourself! I can only imagine what a shop would have charged me for this. How many electrical modules would they have said needed to be replaced?!!!

Had a coupon for Jiffy Lube. Most expensive (money, time and frustration) five bucks I ever saved!

Happy to have my truck back! Bonz is happy too! Looking forward to 205K!!!

Thanks to everyone who responded and those who just prayed.