1995 doodge neon hunting problem

[buickhawk]

Hello,
I have just bought a dodge neon with a hunting problem. It starts fine and warms up fine. After a few miles of driving and then coming to a stop, the engine begins to rev,(3000 rpm) then it goes down and revs again and again, and again. I have yet to get the codes from it, but is there something I should suspect. Timing belt and MAP sensor have less than 50 miles on them. Would the TPS, crankshaft position sensor, or egr do this? I would expect the egr to cause problems all the time.
One last thing to note is that the revving is enough to cause the interior lights to flicker. I am thinking that the battery may also be a little weak.

[Rayden54935]

Well, it appears you and I have the same problem with our Neons. I have yet to figure out what the answer to the problem is. Whether or not you find a solution on this forum or elsewhere, please let me know what you do find out and I will do the same if I find the answer first. Good luck.

[skatendestroy]

if your lights flickering while its doing this it might have something to do with an alternator problem

[buickhawk]

The codes I got were: 43 11 25. I think 43 and 25 are related. The 11 is a mystery though. I also noticed that after I warm the car up, and I accelerate quickly, I hear a rattle coming from under the hood. Then the car begins to behave badly. Going around the streets at 30 doesn't cause problems. I think the car behaves the way it does, because it is in limp-home mode. Let's rename it chysler is stupid mode, because all it does is make the car act stupid.

Changed plugs and wires - car has more power, but still does it.

[buickhawk]

I can't believe no one here has any idea on how to solve this. Doesn't anyone have a clue?

[skatendestroy]

code 11 timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more
code 43 mupltiple cylinder misfirecode
code 25 idle air control motor circuits

[buickhawk]

Did you get similar codes? Do you hear a clicking noise just before the car begins to act up. I hear a clicking from the engine compartment when I accelerate(after it has warmed up), then when I come to a stop or slow down, the engine begins to act crazy. I can drive forever at speeds of 30 miles per hour with no problem. Just quick acceleration after warm-up causes the problem. I reset the computer and get theses codes every time.

[skatendestroy]

nope dont have these problems i just have a repair manual sitting withen hands reach you timing belt deffinantly skipped a tooth i would take off the cover and check the timing before it skips again and throws a valve threw your cylinder your timing belt might be worn so you might have to replace it

[buickhawk]

Further up you will see that the car has just gotten a new timing belt. The timing belt doesn't explain the symptoms. When it skips a tooth, I would have rough running all the time, especially during warm-up. The car runs great at warm-up with no codes given.

[justnotthatpunk]

If you are getting the timing belt skipped a tooth code, then I would definitely check the timing belt. After I replaced the timing belt on mine, the code came on for a skipped tooth. Turns out that we didn't recompress the timing belt tensioner and that caused the problem. My neon didn't seem to exhibit the problems that yours is though. I know that it is a bit*@ to get back in there, but its worth it if it solves the problem. Good Luck.

[buickhawk]

Why does everyone want to fix there timing belt and then do it two or three more times? The problem was there before the timing belt. The new timing belt has not changed a thing in the way it behaves. Again if the timing belt was the problem, why does the car run fine during warm-up (closed loop). I need a suggestion that fixes the problem during warmed-up running (open loop). I suspect a sensor. Which one causes problems (my kind of problems) on this car. (Yeah, I know dodges are crap, all the sensors fail.)

[buickhawk]

Seems like other people have this problem. Anyone with a solution, instead of just try this or that?

[skatendestroy]

not to insult you or anything but if the cylinder misfire dcode come up constantly it mean it was either retarded a tooth or advanced a tooth the click noise your hearing is coming from the engine valves which could posibly mean a valve is bent
when you new timing belt was put on it could of not been timed correctly by the person who installed
your reving up and down problem is caused by the aic its what controls the butterfly in your throttle body if its not functoining correctly the pcm cant tell how much air is comin into the tb and causes it to rev high and low

and nothing personal but lay off the attitude every one heres just trying to help you and your be a little snot ass

[buickhawk]

Hello,
I wanted to post this so that others who have my problem will be able to fix their problem. I replaced the IAC sensor on the throttle body and also cleaned the throttle body. I have had no problem for two weeks now. It takes about an hour unless you bust a screw in the throttle body.
Sensors tell the computer how to operate the engine. If the sensor fails it confuses the computer into doing strange things. I think everyone should keep their timing belt in mind and replace it regularly, but if you trust the computer code to tell you how to fix your car, then you are a moron! Look at the symptoms and then look at the code. Keep that in mind guys and good luck fixing your cars.

[Fractured1]

IAC or vacuum leak, not a whole lot can make it take off like that