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#1 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin
Posts: 12
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Big Problem!
I have a heating problem!!!
A year ago my heater stopped working so my mechanic replaced the "sword" (final stage resistor). 2 months after that the heater stopped again. I removed the sword myself after knowing from the first time and it was fried again, so I got a new one on warranty. I replaced the sword with a new one and nothing happens. The mechanic said before I replaced it that the blower motor had enough amperage to work, but there is not blowing of any air. What could it be. PLEASE HELP, I live in Wisconsin. BRRRRR!!! |
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#2 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Albany, New York
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Check the fuse, and even if it looks ok just go ahead and replace it any way.
Alex |
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin
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Re: Big Problem!
[quote=16valex]Check the fuse, and even if it looks ok just go ahead and replace it any way.
I checked the heater blower fuse and I replaced it but nothing was different. Any other ideas on what would be wrong. Thanks for the reply. |
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#4 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Albany, New York
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That's too bad,
I would use a volt meter and check the for 12VDC at each end of the heater blower fuse against ground, another word put one lead of the volt meter to one end of the specified fuse and the other the end of the lead to a good ground, you should be getting some thing greater than 12VDC, if you are getting 12VDC then check the switch but more likely your blower motor is fried. You may have to turn the ignition to on while doing all these checkings. Alex |
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#5 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: May 2004
Location: seattle, Washington
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Re: Big Problem!
You've checked the fuse and the final stage...your mechanic said the blower had enough "amperage", curious statement, motors don't need "amperage" they need Voltage, which you have.......the problem is that your failing blower was USING too much amperage [shorting windings or most common, failing bearings] causing the driver transistors to overheat and fail in the final stage. The motor isn;t too difficult to access. Once the cowl is off and with the key on, tap on the motor, it will probably start for a moment to confirm your diagnosis without further electrical testing. If so shut it off immediately to prevent further stress on the Final Stage and replace the Blower Motor.
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