Sputtering A4 1.8T

[reltco]

Got a 99 A4 1.8T quattro w/ 61k miles. My wife calls me at work and said the car engine started fine but a bit down the road the check engine light (CEL) came on and the engine started rumbling. As she drove it home (short distance) she said it felt like it was about to stall and the once steady CEL began to flash. The foreign car specialist on the phone said the car's computer went into safe mode thus the reduced power. Tried to pull the codes on the climate control sys (1c) but it read 0 (i.e. no probs?). I know I need the code to find out exactly what is wrong but does anyone have any idea on this "safe mode" and its relationship to lower power output?

[marked001]

hmmm....very much sounds like a coil pack failure... which is extremely common..so common, VAG lowered the prices on em..

and yes.. when the CEL flashes..the car goes into safe mode..its like 4psi of boost.. but that wouldnt make it sputter.. its most likely a coil pack. just gotta diagnose which one.

[reltco]

I pulled the codes and got a P0302 and P0303 (#2 and #3 cyl misfire). I started with the spark plugs (they were due), cleared the codes and tried again. With a cold engine no problems. Once it got warm the CEL starts flashing again and the engine started shaking again. I pulled the codes again and got P0302 but no P0303. I thought it had to be the ignition coil pack on #2 cyl so I swapped coil packs to see if I would get a swapped cyl misfire reading. I still got P0302. Just in case misidentified the cyl #, I swapped the remaining 2 coil packs. Every time I got P0302.
"Cylinder misfire" causes listed on the web include plugs, coil packs, wires, injectors, valves, cams and head gaskets. I'm going to assume the simple fails first but have you had this sort of thing happen before?

[marked001]

hmm..that definitely sounds like its the ignition control module then... pretty simple fix.. just a little pricey.. check www.ecstuning.com.. cheap prices..there's a few of them on there.. just get teh cheapest one..like $150...they all seem to work the same..

[reltco]

Originally Posted by marked001

hmm..that definitely sounds like its the ignition control module then... pretty simple fix.. just a little pricey.. check www.ecstuning.com.. cheap prices..there's a few of them on there.. just get teh cheapest one..like $150...they all seem to work the same..

Any chance it's a head gasket? Causes for a misfire include that expensive cause. But I've had no overheating, no heavy load, no oil loss, oil's clear, coolant is bright and clear but there is a bit of coolant loss. I have some crystalizing coolant at one of the hoses (just above the oil filter mount) and thought I was losing it there and could be fixed by tightening the clamps.

I think I am driving my self crazy in trying to avoid the dealership maint bay by exhaustively researching the net. It's the same as looking on the net, convincing yourself that you have cancer while all you have is a common cold.

[marked001]

nah.. the ICM going out is a pretty common problem unfortunately, so I bet that's your culprit..its a pretty easy DIY swap.. so I'd try that before you venture to the dealer

[reltco]

Originally Posted by marked001

nah.. the ICM going out is a pretty common problem unfortunately, so I bet that's your culprit..its a pretty easy DIY swap.. so I'd try that before you venture to the dealer

Marked001...thanks, you've been a big help in all of this. I'll let you know how it turns out. Hopefully I can return the favor some day.

Merry Christmas!

[marked001]

good deal...good luck let us know how it turns out.l.. if you want me to dig up a writeup on the ICM swap..lemme know

[reltco]

Originally Posted by marked001

good deal...good luck let us know how it turns out.l.. if you want me to dig up a writeup on the ICM swap..lemme know

You were right on target, it was the ICM. Unfortunately, I had to send it to the dealer (long story) and he's charging me $500 for the job. As expected, he tried to squeeze another $3200 out of me. A "may fail" timing belt ($1100 - includes H20 pump and coolant drain/flush, fortunately I inspected the pump the day before), small cam adjuster oil leak ($620), small leak in the oil cooler ($450), slight tie rod end play ($495) and front pads and rotors below Audi specs ($545). I will be doing these myself...

Thanks again, you were a tremendous help.

God Bless

[marked001]

damn.. $1100 for the timing belt is crazy..good luck

[Cbass94]

Yeah, don't go to the dealer, the prices are outrageous generally. I got my cam seals AND cam adjuster seals replaced for $275 total. Tie rod ends are cake, but you will need an alignment after you do them, and pads and rotors are a very simple DIY also.