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#1 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Daytona, Florida
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Paint care, show quality.
Just thought I'd share this.
Paint Care 101 If there is one thing that sets apart a show car from a minivan it is shine. How many soccer moms do you see rolling in an impeccable vehicle? Barely any. And never does it match the “ora” that a show car seems to drip with. Think to yourself though, what makes that car catch your eye? Of course you might say the rims, body kit, or paint job, but what ties all of that together into a neat package? It is the quality of the detailing. In this article I wish to educate you in how to achieve the same “effect” on your own car. These steps will take a long time, but it is a sacrifice worth making. **This altogether will take quite a long time, so be sure to set aside a Saturday, or longer for the whole job. ** Step 1. You should always start with a good, quality wash to remove major dust particles that may scratch your paint. Be sure to use a car wash soap such as Meguiars Gold Class and never dish soap or other detergents, as they will only inflict more damage that you started out with. In the shade and with cool paint, use a wash mit or sponge covered in 100% Cotton or chenille and wash the car top to bottom, making sure to keep the vehicle wet. Then rinse with a soft shower of water from top to bottom, only use a hard blast on wheels or wheel wells. Dry the car either with a chamois, California water blade, or soft 100% cotton towel. Step 2. Now that the car is fairly clean and dry, if your goal is the ultimate shine, you will now follow with a clay kit. A claybar is the best way to further remove harmful particles that inhibit shine and damage paint. It isn't necessary or advised that you use one every time you clean your car, however I usually recommend use every 2-3 months, unless you have a show car and need to look extra "spiffy.” This is mostly because this step will take you about 2 hours. Always be sure to wear gloves when using a claybar. Fingerprints add oils to the clay and any small particles from dirty hands may cause scratches to the paint. Claybar kits usually come with a bottle of Quick Detailer, or a generic version of it, to use as lube. Be sure to keep the surface wet with this while using the claybar. Spray a small area ( 1-2 sq. ft) and rub clay over paint until it feels smoother and there is less friction. You will be able to tell by touch. When the bottom of the clay begins to turn black, knead it into a ball and re-flatten. Continue like this with the rest of the car. Step 3. Spray down the car with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper rag. Now it's time to break out the buffer. I do not recommend the use of a buffer without prior knowledge or practice. What you need to do now is use a cleaner. Be sure to avoid mixture products ( i.e., cleaner/ wax). Think of it this way, if a cleaner is used to remove contaminants, why would you wax them into the paint at the same time? I suggest that you use Meguiars #2 fine-cut cleaner. This will remove any remaining contaminants and begin the feeding process for the paint. When you use Cleaners/polishes they replenish oils into the paint, thus making it shiny. The more you do this, the more oils the paint receives and the shinier it gets. It is similar to hair, in which the polish is like the conditioner. You will apply a small amount of the cleaner to your buffer and work into paint until it looks clear again. If you develop a slight haze, it isn't a problem, just use a little less next time. It really takes a lot less than you may think. After you finish going over the whole car, wipe down with a new diaper cloth. Step 4. Spray the car down again with distilled water and wipe dry with another new diaper cloth. Now it's time to polish. Polish is the real character-builder. It will bring out the depth of your paint's shine. However, this is the product you have to be a little more careful with. You can make your car look 100 times better, or you can burn out the paint. You should be safe as long as you DO NOT USE TOO MUCH POLISH AT A TIME. Several small dots across the diameter of the pad are sufficient. I suggest that you use Meguiars #7 Show Car glaze. Despite the name, this is not a true glaze. It is a pure polish. This is the polish I have had the best results with, especially with dark colors. Apply this as you did with the cleaner, working a small amount into the surface at a time. Be sure to work your buffer parallel with the car (front to back, back to front). I'm not exactly sure why, but I have encountered better results with this technique. You will begin to see the shine build as you continue. You will most likely have to cover the car 3 times for a best shine. Use a fresh bonnet each time and spray the car down with distilled water in between coats. By now, the paint will feel very smooth, there will be few to no visible blemishes (unless you have major damage), and the reflection will be clear and distinct. Step 5. Once again spray the car down with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper cloth. Now it is time to wax. Contrary to popular belief, wax does not make your car shiny. What makes the paint glow is all the work you have just invested into it. Wax is nothing more than a sealer to lock in all the oils you have just fed your paint. I suggest Meguiars Gold Class or #26 High Tech Yellow wax. You can apply as many coats of wax as you wish. Some say that you get more depth with each new coat, but I suggest no more than 2-3 coats. You will apply the wax as you did the cleaner and polish, in-line with the car and a little at a time. Trying to apply too much wax at a time will actually KILL a little of the shine you just worked for. It is far better to apply a few thin coats than one thick coat, especially if you want to preserve your shine. Again, spray the car down with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper cloth between coats, ignoring this step after the final wax coat. Then use a clean diaper cloth to remove any dust or cloth particles that may have gathered ( not likely). If you have finished the rest of the car, it is time to sit back and admire your handiwork, then go pimp it up on the town.
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97 Eclipse GST MT ![]() Race Every Day Like It Will Be Your Last. My one insignificant mod: Dump Tube - CUT |
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#2 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Issaquah, Washington
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Re: Paint care, show quality.
Thanks for the info.
But what about Zaino? http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc I've heard they have the best waxes /polishes. Here's a thread on Zaino and other waxes/polishes. http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuk...ewtopic&t=9578 These guys tested a whole bunch of waxes. Zaino won, really expensive ones lost. http://www.nsxsc.com/nsexcitement/waxtest.html
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![]() '99 GSX, 5-speed, 60k miles: Greddy filter / RRE uicp / 1g bov / Autometer boost gauge / Injen-copy intake / Megan DP (not installed) Coming soon! Thx to Blackcrow & nova1313! http://dsm-one.org/ Adopt pets in need! http://www.petfinder.com/
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#3 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Daytona, Florida
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Re: Paint care, show quality.
I've never tried Zaino or ever heard of them. I have heard of Zymbol the competitor. I'm always willing to try something new. Every car I've ever owned has been black, except my clips (I would have gotten it black if I had a choice), so I have always used stuff that works good on that color.
I'm assuming you've never used Zaino? Do you know if you can find it in a store or just online?
__________________
97 Eclipse GST MT ![]() Race Every Day Like It Will Be Your Last. My one insignificant mod: Dump Tube - CUT |
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#4 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Thanks that's pretty helpful. I just wish it wasn't like 40 degrees here in CT. Could a mod put this in this thread.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=213325 Those stuck in snow could probably use this in about 6 months.
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DSF 1998 Green Mitsubishi Eclipse GS- Vibrant Ram Intake, Greddy Evo2 cat-back, front and rear strut bars. 2 Kicker L7s, amp coming soon 17" white Motegi RT5 rims, Quwhees 12-piece wide-body kit will be put on....... someday
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#5 | |
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AF Enthusiast
![]() Join Date: May 2004
Location: Stockton, California
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Re: Paint care, show quality.
i use zymbol too. i like it. the shine is nice and deep.
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-1997 Eclipse Spyder GST |Stock| -1990 Eclipse GSX |ACL Main & Rod Race Bearings|Balance Shafts Removed|ARP Head Studs|Cometic HG|FP 20g TDO6H|EPROM Chipped (stutter box 5k, fuel comp.)|PTE 680cc inj.|Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump|Autoteq FPR|SAFC 2|FMIC|2g MAF|Dejon Tool Hard Pipe|Greddy Type S|MBC at 17PSI|Ported 2g Exhaust Manifold|02 Housing w/ Tial 38mm WG|Full 3inch Exhaust w/ Y-pipe Cutout|Fidanza Flywheel|ACT 2100|4 Bolt LSD Rear|Poly Mounts|KYB AGX Suspension|Roll Bar| |
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#6 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Daytona, Florida
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Re: Paint care, show quality.
I heard that Zymbol was good, but as far as their marketing strategy goes its not so good. I mean if you compare their packaging to Meguires, it seems kinda plain. So, I never paid much attention to it, but the next time I need wax I'll definately try it.
__________________
97 Eclipse GST MT ![]() Race Every Day Like It Will Be Your Last. My one insignificant mod: Dump Tube - CUT |
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