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| '88 - '91 Civic | CRX | Wagon | Shuttlee Partnership with: LadyNRedSi.com |
| View Poll Results: Which Engine? | |||
| B18B (Integra LS) |
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12 | 32.43% |
| LS/Vtec |
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4 | 10.81% |
| B20 (CRV) |
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6 | 16.22% |
| CRV/Vtec |
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5 | 13.51% |
| Non of those |
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6 | 16.22% |
| B16b (Civic Type R) |
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4 | 10.81% |
| Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1
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What Engine?
yes, I know this question is asked thousands of times, but this is isn't just "Hey I just got a 91 civic and want to do an engine swap". I want some of you guys/girls opinions between a couple of engines.
Alright, I'm stuck between these engines, B18B, LS/Vtec, B20, CRV/Vtec. I am planning on putting a turbo on it, so I don't know how the vtec will work with that. I heard its bad to have a turbo on a Vtec, unless you time your turbo right. And also, I'm not just planning on going in a straight line, I love turns. The suspension will be getting beefed up with all this as well. So tell me what you guys think.
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Tony 91 Civic Sedan DX - Stock 287k Miles |
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#2
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I say you do a B18B and some suspension work, roll around like that for a while, and then later turbo that ... its what I would do. 'Marc-os' is running a similar setup with his crx.
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AF Bay Area Crew ![]() 97 Toyota T100 xcab 3.4l v6 5spd 2wd |
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#3
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Well if you want to be able to turn at high speeds I'd suggest none of the above. I know people are gonna say it's unorigional and point out the fact that theres only like 150-200lbs difference(if that) between a B18 and a B16, but either way, weight is weight and civics already have way to much up front.
I would suggest a B16 with a small turbo, if you want to run auto-X or just touge then you don't want a whole lot of power. 250HP is plenty in a light weight civic. Also you don't want to have to worry about turbo lag, not because it would slow you down but because it would complicate driving if you were using a very high output turbo system because it could jar the car mid-turn. So, if your not looking for just straight line performance then use a small light weight engine. Either a B16 or B18. Hell, even a SOHC D16 with a turbo would work well. Also, if your gonna be driving enthusiastically and doing suspension work, then i suggest you check out the books I mentioned in thie thread: Here Hope this helps.
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Keiichi Tsuchiya isn't the drift king, Michael Schumacher Is. The only thing better than cars is Music... maybe. |
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#4
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I thought Marc had a b16???
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![]() R.I.P. - You shall be resurrected.
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#5
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Anyway, out of the options I would definetely pick up the b18 non-vtec so you wouldn't have to worry about managing boost and vtec. Plus as CaptynCrunch mentioned, the weight difference can mean a lot in the corners. Also, with the LSVTEC and CRVTEC there is some machine work like drilling the oil lines, that could be trouble if done wrong, and those setups usually don't last as long as a stock vtec engines. |
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#6
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Alright, thanks guys. So far looks like its going to be the B18. I would go B16, but everyone has a B16 in their 4G. Just one of those things where I want to do something that is played out so bad...but maybe once I do some more looking into it, the B16 might get a chance.
Captyncrunch, thanks for the names of the books, I have been wanting to know what books I should get to learn more about all this stuff for a long time. Just gotta get some spare money up. Keep the thoughts coming.
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Tony 91 Civic Sedan DX - Stock 287k Miles |
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#7
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Hey Mods!!! Can I get a option for B16b thrown on this poll?
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Tony 91 Civic Sedan DX - Stock 287k Miles |
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#8
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AF Bay Area Crew ![]() RIP Melt 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution GSR 2007 Toyota Prius ![]() ![]() I <3 and miss my 4g
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#9
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works for me...right now im looking for opinions, and their through up the B16, so it works for me.
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Tony 91 Civic Sedan DX - Stock 287k Miles |
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#10
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B18c1 is probably my favorite motor, I'd go with the b20b out of the top motors, ok The B16A and the B18B, share the same block with with the engine's overall width of 601 mm. The B18B's 1834-cc capacity was obtained by stroking the B16A to 89 mm. Now the b20b utilizes consecutive liner construction, "quad-sequential sleeve block." the distance between the inner walls of the adjoining cylinders, are reduced to 6 mm from the separate lines' 9 mm of the b18b, while retaining the same bore pitch. This enables the b20b an addition of 3 mm to the bore of 84 mm which, combined with the B18B's 89 mm stroke increases the engine's cubic capacity to 1972 cc. The b20b is also one of the lightest for its displacement. Oh and the b18b and the b16a are not heavy motor's. I saw some very questionable weight ratio's above. hope I helped out odditie.
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#11
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The B18A/B cannot be based off a bored B16A block, the B18 non-VTEC has been around since the 1986 Accord GXL-S, where it was carbed and made 130 HP.
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My cars: Civic coupe EJ1. B16A, EG6 cluster. Wrecked/parting. CRX DX ED8. DOHC ZC, I/H/E. ![]() EJ1 Civic Si . Screw Hatchbacks. Coupes just look better. Period... |
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#12
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#13
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CTR engine is not even worth buying. Why spend near 5g's when theres a cheaper way of doin it? Like me for an example...well my friend bought a type r block now he doesnt need it anymore. Since i already have a b16 i'm just gonna mate my head with the type r block. Just as good as the whole swap maybe a bit higher compression since the deck is different from itr head. Anyways i know alot of ppl have a b16 in there cars. I'd say it doesn't matter what u have what matters is what u've done with it! IF you want a ctr motor go with b16a and throw in ctr pistons and get some ctr cams along with the whole valve train. MUCH CHEAPER and just as good. Now for b20..i'd go for that cause they're pretty cheap motors and i believe they are one of the strongest honda motors out there. Get that and slap the turbo on there with fuel upgrade and a lil tuning will help. Then you're set.
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#14
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#15
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Very true Hybrid, none of these engines are technically heavy at all, especially compared to most other engines.
BUT, they are heavier than each other, which does make a difference ![]() Any chance you, or anyone really, could point me in the direction of some exact weights? or if possible full spec sheets? Either way, the point I'm really trying to emphasize is that civics, being FWD are nose heavy as it is and this is a bad thing, just like being ass heavy is a bad thing for handling. So, anything you can do to make the front a bit lighter would help for Auto-X and just handling in general. There's nothign worse than a car that plows, and theres no easier way to make a car plow than to overload the front, except maybe putting lunch trays on the front wheels... Either way though, which ever engine you choose the weight distrubution problem can be allieviated through some proper suspension tuning
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Keiichi Tsuchiya isn't the drift king, Michael Schumacher Is. The only thing better than cars is Music... maybe. |
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