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#1 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Massapequa, New York
Posts: 78
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Well, thinking that I could have been able to resolve my performance issues by replacing a valve-cover gasket, and tightening the valve-cover, oil pan, and tranny pan bolts.......I've paid the price of being smart.
The rear main seal is leaking oil with a passion. After 2 weeks, I think 2.5qts have leaked away. I think that if I leave the oil cap, or loosen some bolts it may be okay. Any ideas? Is there a way to replace the rear main seal, without removing the engine? Thanks |
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#2 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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man im sry bout what happened but whaat year is it i think the only wa to do it is to remove the tranie which would mean being on a lift well i dunno if ur a mechanic or not but if u r ur in luck then u could do it ur self at work but if not uell hav to pay for parts and labor wich will b expensive well sry man my heart gos out and good luck
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#3 | |
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Caution: Monkeys bite!
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Re: Paid the price
Yep, looks like a big job. You'll probably be able to get at it with some ramps or jackstands, and of course some extra helping hands to heft the trannie out of the way. Good luck with it.
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#4 | |
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AF Regular
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Canterbury, Connecticut
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Re: Paid the price
Pulling the tranny should be easier than jerking the engine. But you need to raise the car. Also, you might want to change the trans. input shaft seal while you're at it. You wouldn't want to put it all back together and then have that leaking!
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#5 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: W.Caldwell, New Jersey
Posts: 612
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Re: Paid the price
It sounds like you have crankcase pressure problem,have you tryed to clean or replace you pvc or filter for crankcase pressure lately?I had a few slight leaks with 88 crown vic and found there was a breather element located at the rear of the intake manifold which was never changed.
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#6 | |
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AF Regular
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Massapequa, New York
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Re: Paid the price
I just changed the PCV item.
It started when I plugged all the vacuum leaks. |
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#7 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: W.Caldwell, New Jersey
Posts: 612
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Re: Paid the price
You say you an item,what item? and vacuum usually has nothing to do with oil leakage.
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#8 | |
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AF Regular
Thread starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Massapequa, New York
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Re: Paid the price
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve fits into a large round rubber/plastic element. The two together fit into the rear of the lower intake manifold.
I replaced the PCV valve, and cleaned/lubricated the element. The performance is a bit better. Two problems: 1)_Feels/sounds like the engine is very very sluggish when the accelerator pedal is depressed a bit. (like it is being bogged) If the engine is let to run for about 3 minutes, this disappears. 2)_A sudden revving of the engine causes a 1/2-second of power lag, and then the power kicks in. No squealing or typical problems anytime else to be a tranny problem. This power problem is much less at mid-to-high RPM ranges. Someone I know said it could be a worn cam. I'd go with the crackcase pressure problem. No problem with cylinder compression though. Best bet is to get the UV Leak detection kit from JCWhitney, and see where the leak is from. Could the oil or water pump be ready to seize? Later, |
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#9 | |
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Caution: Monkeys bite!
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Sounds alot like my 86, same type throttle response. The performance is ok once you clear the "bog" rpm range. I used to drive old Chryslers, and when the timing chain was going they would get like that, low rpm would suck but once the engine started revving it was ok. The MGM is starting to get that way a little so there may be some slack in the chain (and hmmm, interesting note about the worn cam).
I don't know what else could be causing it, seems like you've done everything (intake, pcv, vacuum, exhaust) outside the engine. Mine has been the same since I got it 2 years ago, and now has close to 140K miles. Good luck with it! |
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#10 | |
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Caution: Monkeys bite!
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Re: Paid the price
As far as the oil or water pumps seizing, that would likely put some drag on the engine, but not enough to do what we're talking about I'm thinking. Besides, there would be some indication (oil pressure warning light, belts squealing) when they were seizing.
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#11 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: davenport, Iowa
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Re: Paid the price
I think you may be able to fix the rear seal without having to do a super load of work, sometime you can get at them by loosening the tranny. Get a good rolling floor jack put it under the tranny, loosen up the bolts and linkage, and drop it a few inches and slide it back a few inches, the bar that slides into the engine from the tranny should stay connecting the engine to tranny.
I have seen rear seals that are 2 parts, they slide right in. Be sure to scrape all the old one out. Call a parts store and ask if it is a two piece seal. Basicly two C pieces, a top and bottom. ------------------------------------------------ The engine bog thing sounds like my 87 Crown Vic. the idle air gizmo? or.... the smog pump. A friend of mine has an 86 vic and it chugged along. I do mean chugged. Sounded almost like a train going uphill. Then the car died, poor guy tried almost everything to get it running. Finally he unhooked the belt from the smog pump, and fired it up. I ran pretty darned good. And still does. No I'm not saying to unhook your smog pump and leave it unhooked, some places have very strict emmisions laws, and you will need to install a new one. But some states and counties have little or no smog control, so check where you live to find out. If your car has a single belt, or can easily be bypassed with a different belt, it is worth doing to check if the pump is the problem. ----------------------------------------------- As for the water pump... If you are running 50/50 in your raditor and the water pump is making noise, like a scraping squeeling type noise. Try some of the cooling system conditioner. It is black and has pellets in it. You dont really need the pellets, they are for stopping water leaks, but you may need the conditioner. I've been running the stuff for over a year and the niosy pump hardly ever makes niose. I first used the stuff, pellets and all, because of a leaky heater core. Thats a whole nother story... btw it's been bypassed. |
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#12 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: davenport, Iowa
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Re: Paid the price
--------- and vacuum usually has nothing to do with oil leakage -------------
notice he said, usually has nothing to do with. ------------ There is probablly a reason there were vacumme leaks. something was causing somekind of back pressure and caused the hoses to "magically" pop apart. mabey engine sludge? |
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#13 | |
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AF Regular
Thread starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Massapequa, New York
Posts: 78
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Update
Well, The oil leak has stopped, and stopped too soon to do a proper UV leak detection.
The slight bit of delay in acceleration I spoke of still exists. Could be rings, clogged CATs, the tranny, or even the sludge spoken of. I think Ill try a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas. But then again the new Shell V-Power gas seems to be elping anyways. IT performs nicely without any problems at high speeds. Accleration sucks. I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak elsewhere since the tranny shifting is a little off. ---------------------------- Since my car runs and fortunately hasn't quit on me, my current projects are to: 1) Fix the heating issue 2) Retrofit the R-12 a/c to R-134a. I did however stumble across a page that offers a studyguide, and an online test to sidestep a legal loophole, and become legally registered to buy and handle R-12 (freon). I'm too busy now to study the 50+ pages even if I can become a registered technician. I've become well-versed recently on how the heating and A/C systems work (especially with my Automatic Temperature Control System - ATC). I just need to buy the parts.- Later, |
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