set timing on jetta III

LazyBimmer · #1 05-29-2004, 04:46 PM

i have a 94 jetta III, i think i have this timing problem...anyone could tell me where do i shoot the gun looking thing at??

also, if i have something wrong with the ignition coil, what are some 'feel' i'll get with the car??

thanks guys..

riceaterSLC · #2 05-30-2004, 01:34 PM

i've never done a 2.0 timing belt, but i am assuming it will be similar to a 16v...so this is what you can do. there are timing marks on the camshaft pully underneath the upper timing belt cover. the other timing mark is on the crankshaft pully, or the flywheel.
pull off the upper timing belt cover
jack up the car and remove the pass. side wheel
remove the spark plugs and wires to make it easy to turn the motor over by hand.
rotate the crankshaft by the crankshaft bolt (19mm head bolt) until the camshaft gear notch lines up with the timing arrow on the valve cover gasket. it will be pretty obvious, the arrow is right on the top.
check the timing notch on the crankshaft pulley to see if it matches with the timing arrow on the lower timing belt cover. if they are close, less than 1 notch on the camshaft pulley, your timing should be good.
hope that helps.

LazyBimmer · #3 05-30-2004, 11:04 PM

i opened up the rotor and the distributor...and i tried to turn that whole thing...and it didn't really work...and im lost on how to set the timing since i turn one thing and the whole system moves...and it started to rain so i just put everything back and im gonna take it apart very soon but i am still kinda confused on how to set it...coz like i said...everything moves togehter... >_<

riceaterSLC · #4 05-31-2004, 02:24 AM

it is all supposed to move together. the distributor should only go on one way, there is a keyway in there. if you set the motor to TDC, top dead center, and look at the references, they should line up. if they dont, then your timing is off.

boschmann · #5 05-31-2004, 08:30 PM

Your ignition timing should not need to be adjusted, actually I don't think it can even be changed by loosening the clamp as in the older models. It is possible to be out if the timing belt was improperly installed as riceater is describing, but if that is correct there should be nothing to do at the distributor. What problems are you having?

LazyBimmer · #6 05-31-2004, 09:39 PM

ok...i have this prob, my car goes 'phom' for a sec once you step on the accelarator...but then gives it 2 more seconds...the car will go back to normal...i think it's the timing prob, maybe?? or anyone here have a clue what's going on with it?? if its the timing...can someone tell me how to set the timing...coz i tried taking the stuff apart...thought i should turn the rotor and the distributor...but then it doesn't look right to me...so im confused... @@ please help!! hohoh

riceaterSLC · #7 06-02-2004, 11:29 AM

how many miles on the car and whens the last time you had a tuneup?
if you are getting hesitation, could just need new plugs/wires. i would also look into replacing your fuel and air filters if you have a lot of miles on the car. do some simple maintanance before you tear into this thing

boschmann · #8 06-02-2004, 03:51 PM

When setting timing in a car designed for manual adustment you would loosen the distributor housing clamp and rotate the distributor itself with the car running. On your vehicle the adjustments are made electronically and you can only look at the timing (the distributor is locked in place & will not rotate). To check it, remove the plastic plug at the top of the transmission (27mm hex). There is a pointer vee cast into the trans housing closest to the engine in the threads of the hole. On the flywheel there is a V notch which is the correct timing. There is also a small 0 just after the V notch to indicate TDC. Was the timing belt changed recently? Often people get the distributor out of time when replacing the belt.

LazyBimmer · #9 06-02-2004, 05:28 PM

ohoh...thanks boschmann...someone told me to take the front pass. rim off and turn that crank pulley then check the distributor and stuff...but if its electronically adjustments that means i don't really have to look at it's timings right? i haven't replace the timing belt...but then my friend took out the distributor and tried to turn it and found that it wouldn't turn...so we put it back and left it that way...now the car is in my back yard with the front pass. wheel out coz someone told me to take it out...so that means i should work on something else besides the timing right? hehe..i got one more question tho, what would i 'feel' if the ignition coil has gone bad??? coz sometimes it takes a long time to start my car...and we suspect that it's the ignition coil at a certain point...but not really in some other perspective...

LazyBimmer · #10 06-02-2004, 05:32 PM

hey riceater...i changed my plugs and wires like 3 weeks ago...im going to change the fuel filter really soon once i put the wheel back and i'll see if that helps...i'll just forget the timing thing since boschmann said it's electronically adjust... and i have em...almost 140,000 miles =) i got a lot of probs in this car...if you guys know some common ones..please help me out here... thank you so much guys!!

boschmann · #11 06-03-2004, 05:13 PM

If someone removed the distributor there is a good posibility it wasn't put back correctly, or it could have been out to begin with. You need to turn the engine so that the small 0 on the flywheel (near the V notch) is lined up with the pointer on the tranny bell housing. Then remove the distributor cap, rotor, and dust shield so that you can find a small notch in the rim of the distributor housing where the cap seats. Put the rotor back on & it must be close to centered over this notch. It may also be 180 degrees out which means you could be on TDC #4. The only sure way would be to pull the upper timing cover & check that the camshaft notch is aligned, there is a notch on the lip of the sprocket that aligns with a mark on the back timing shield at the top. If the car runs at all this shouldn't be the case. If the rotor is close, but off a little then you will need to pull the distributor and rotate the shaft/rotor so that it aligns (note the shaft rotates slightly as the gears mesh while you insert it). Once this is set correctly the ECM can take over the adjustments as designed.

LazyBimmer · #12 06-04-2004, 02:22 AM

omg...im so lost...so afterall, if my car runs that means its fine right? sorry!! =(

boschmann · #13 06-06-2004, 04:38 PM

Even if it runs the distributor still might be off slightly, like one tooth. Just put the crankshaft/flywheel onto TDC #1 by looking through the hole in the tranny bell housing. There should be a small, dificult to see 0 just after the V notch, which is the ignition timing mark. You want the pointer on the zero. Pull the distributor cap, rotor & dust shield and then put the rotor back on to make sure the rotor is centered over the notch in the distributor housing. It's really not that difficult. If the rotor points 180 degrees out you are just on TDC #4 and only need to turn the crankshaft 360 degrees to get onto TDC #1. If it isn't centered over the notch you need to partially remove the distributor untill the gear teeth disengage, turn the shaft in the desired direction & reinstall the distributor. The exact timing will then be correctly set by the ECM.

LazyBimmer · #14 06-06-2004, 06:02 PM

so first i take off my pass wheel...then i'll see a gear looking thing...then turn that 12pt bolt until the flywheel points at 0...then check if the distributor is right...also check the OT next to the airbox and see if that points at OT is that right?? =) thanks for double checking with me

dotsplot · #15 07-19-2004, 02:27 AM

I don't know if you're still having a problem, but I was experiencing a notable lack of power in low revs, and then the car would suddenly kick in. I traced the problem back to a loose screw in the back of the carb - I think it had something to do with the electronic idling.

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