Blown Head Gasket

[Rob Rev]

I've been running a NOS pro race kit for a while now with no problems. My head gasket burned in between # 3 and #4 cyl. The plugs all looked fine. Doesn’t seem like it ran lean.

My only idea for the reason that the gasket burned is that I did a back to back run only 15 min. between runs. Will the built up heat cause this?

Does anyone have any experience with this type of problem?

You ideas and info will be appreciated.

[Redneck_Cadillac]

Originally Posted by Rob Rev

I've been running a NOS pro race kit for a while now with no problems. My head gasket burned in between # 3 and #4 cyl. The plugs all looked fine. Doesn’t seem like it ran lean.

My only idea for the reason that the gasket burned is that I did a back to back run only 15 min. between runs. Will the built up heat cause this?

Does anyone have any experience with this type of problem?

You ideas and info will be appreciated.

most common place for a head gasket to pop is between cylinders. with nos, you're putting more pressure on the gasket than just normal driving.
if it's the stock gasket, no biggie. that little "ring" in the gasket that broke is the only thing that seals compression in your cylinder other than the compression rings and the valve seats/face. the "burns" you see are prolly exhaust gasses exchanging over the broken gasket.

aluminum (head) expands quicker than cast iron (block) and literally "slides" on the gasket. that's why some are grafite permiated. after time, it gets weak and can fail.

have the head checked for truness, and shaved if it's warped. install with a good gasket kit. most aftermarket gaskets are better than stock anyway. MFG uses the cheapest ones possible, just to save a little $$$.

chances are: it popped from running it at it's max over a period of time.(like since you built it) the fact that you just ran two passes, back 2 back, is just prolly coincidence... if i were you.....i'd invest in a stud kit for the head, and not use stock bolts any more. stock bolts can stretch and allow a head hasket to pop. if money's tight (due to initial repair) at least get new stock headbolts for now......

[Rob Rev]

The gasket I was using is a FEL-PRO and stock head bolts. I put a new FEL-PRO gasket for now, I also ordered a MLS head gasket (muiti layer steal head gasket). If the FEL-PRO blows again I'll put on the steal gasket.

[Redneck_Cadillac]

Originally Posted by Rob Rev

The gasket I was using is a FEL-PRO and stock head bolts. I put a new FEL-PRO gasket for now, I also ordered a MLS head gasket (muiti layer steal head gasket). If the FEL-PRO blows again I'll put on the steal gasket.

yeah...if you're bottle feeding, steel would be best for longevity. i'm almost positive the 22r motor has some pretty long headbolts, that's why i suggested new ones.....

good luck. sweet looking rig, too, if that's in the photo!!

[Rob Rev]

Originally Posted by Redneck_Cadillac

yeah...if you're bottle feeding, steel would be best for longevity. i'm almost positive the 22r motor has some pretty long headbolts, that's why i suggested new ones.....

good luck. sweet looking rig, too, if that's in the photo!!

Yeah.... thats my truck in the pic. It will be getting a full make over soon: Roll cage, 4X4 bed & fenders, alum. bed cover, and a paint job from my sponsor SUPER-KRETE .

..anyways... This motor i'm using was only so I can test and get comfortable with using the NOS....12.466 @ 107 with a prue stock bottom end and just porting on the head. I have a fully built 22r bottom end w/ a 20r head, all from L.C. Engineering. I am aiming for the 11 sec. times real soon.

Tanks for your info.