1999 Regal spark plug access

[bdserv]

I'm new here and maybe this has been covered before (but I couldn't find it in a search) but can anyone elaborate on the best method for gaining access to the back spark plugs with minimum blood loss?

I've seen references to "rotating" the engine and moving the engine forward but I'm not sure how to go about doing this and even whether it's possible with the exhaust system attached, etc.

Also, any good tips on how to get the wires off if they haven't been removed in something like 80k miles or so - beyond brute force that is?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Bruce

[autoforum]

Hello Bruce,

I don't know if the 99 is the same as the 95 or not, but I recently did my 95 and it wasn't too terrible. I used a spark plug socket, extension and a universal to get them out. I actually broke two of the ceramics getting them out. The main reason I wanted to post is that it would be helpful to 1) apply hi temperature anti-seize lubricant to the threads of the plugs (unless you would prefer to give grief to the next person to change the plugs, but that might be you, eh?), and 2) apply ignition wire conductive lubricant to the plug terminal before putting the wires on. These two steps are usually skipped because it takes a little more effort to buy and use the lubricants, but it is well worth it and you'll always do it after you once have such problems as you are having now. Hope that helps.

~Dan

[Ragtop_Renegade]

Mind you I've never seen a 99 Regal ( I have a 92) But if the 99 still uses front dog-bone engine mounts you can buy a tool that bolts in place of a mount and cranks the engine forward. I belive the tool is made by Kent-Moore and can be ordered by a GM Dealer's parts department, but Snap-On and others may make a similar tool. It probably isn't cheap, so you may decide to just bleed alot or pay someone else to bleed alot.
As far as spark plug boots they're gonna be tough no matter what but a spark plug boot pliers can be picked up at any parts store. Grasp the lowest possible part of the boot with the pliers and pull in a straight line while twisting gently back and forth. Usually the boot will pop off unexpectedly causing you to bang your knuckles on the firewall and burst a stream of foul language, but by the 3rd plug your reaction time gets faster...well, usually.

[tman]

The regal was redesigned in 1997.5

[bdserv]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

I've heard that you can remove the dog bones and then rotate the engine to gain access to the back plugs and wires, but I don't see how that can be possible with the exhaust system still attached, etc. In fact, I was perusing the Chilton's manual in the parts store the other day and it said exactly that - remove the dog bones and pry the engine forward - but they are notorious for leaving out details.

I will probably end up taking the bleed/curse/beer/repeat approach but wanted to check here to see if anyone had ever done it the "easy" way first.

Thanks again for the help.

Bruce

[tman]

I've not tried this, but you may have access from the underneath if you have long arms...

[Ragtop_Renegade]

Hey, the exhaust is on rubber mounts, it'll flex.
I used one of those tools at the local technical college a few years back on a 95 Grand Prix and it worked GREAT. As far as Chilton's directions on prying... gotta wonder what they expect you to pry ON. Maybe if you parked in front of a heavy tree/pole and used a come-along....

[tman]

Chilton's, and haynes manuals suck. Get the factory manuals from Helms.

[Skavoovie]

Originally Posted by Ragtop_Renegade

Hey, the exhaust is on rubber mounts, it'll flex.
I used one of those tools at the local technical college a few years back on a 95 Grand Prix and it worked GREAT. As far as Chilton's directions on prying... gotta wonder what they expect you to pry ON. Maybe if you parked in front of a heavy tree/pole and used a come-along....

Haha. Sounds strange, but it works. Actually, we used the hitch on a Ford Explorer to anchor the come-along the second time, and the rear suspension on a Jeep Cherokee the first time we installed headers on two different Regals (a '00 and a '02), worked great. Changed the plugs on the '00 while we were at it. Hook onto the engine pull points. Just be careful not to crush the front plugs by racheting too far. I plan on using the same technique on my '99.

[bdserv]

OK - so, I changed the plugs and wires last night and didn't even lose too much blood in the process.

Turns out the engine is easy to move if you remove the dog bones, leave the trans in park, and then push the car forward by hand. When the engine is far enough forward, just engage the parking brake and you're there. I actually rocked the car from the driver's side door which worked well.