Help Quick!!!!!!

[Bdav123]

I have a 89 s10 with the 4.3 non vortec I just got from a buddy of mine it ran fine but had some rod knock it started kind of hard though so I drive it a come of time maybe like 10 mins and then one day after I changed the rear brake lines it just would not start I have already replaced plugs and wires and the cap and rotor looked pretty new. The battery also when dead from cranking it. The oil pressure is also super high when trying to start. Help please. Oh yeah I am only getting fuel while cranking not when it finally starts.

[MT-2500]

If it had rod knock and now the oil pressure is super high it is all over with for that engine.

[Bdav123]

Like I need a whole new engine or could I rebuild it.

[MT-2500]

If the rod is knocking bad.
Your engine will need a complete rebuild.
Yes if you want to spend a lot of money on it you can rebuild it.
Which gets expensive or a used or another engine would be a cheaper solution.
Up to You.
But make sure it is a rod knocking first thing.
Some other thing can make a knocking noise to.
Good luck MT.

[Cam1959]

Yrs ago I had a slight knocking sound in upper engine. It was also burning oil and blowing some blue smoke when letting off the gas after long highway acceleration.

I switched from conventional 5w30 oil to 10w30 full synthetic (which some said put fresh esters on metal valve guide seals, whatever that is, to help with valve guide seals) and I added one of those metal bonding lubrication helping additives, as well as seal and gasket rejuvenator, plus a quality oil filter, not those expensive double or triple filtration ones, but a good name brand, which helps control fall back of oil from top, better, I think they said here.

The oil burning stopped, the knock stopped. Been good for 2 or 3 yrs now.

150,000 miles on this 2.8 lt v6. Stars and runs well.

Doesn't like or have the power for much highway and even gradual inclines, but fine for around town.

Have put in new starter, battery, generator, coil, rotor, cap, plugs, plug wires (coil and wires can wear and reduce spark as happened with mine yrs back).

Wire connections at coil get dirty and/or corroded or lose, make sure they good, the primary small wires there.

Be sure large bare exposed lower engine block to frame ground wire is in good shape and connections clean, etc.

Carb linkages and choke need to be kept well lubed and free moving.

Changed fuel filter and pickup assembly ontop of tank which also has filter on it's end.

Changed fuel pump 4 yrs ago.

I'd try the cheapest things and look for differance if any.

Otherwise, swith motor with a rebuilt.

Good luck with the gueling process of eliminations.