89 Z28 305 swap for 383 stroker help

[Broker-Ron]

I bought a very built a 383 stroker motor and would like to install it into my 89 Iroc Z28. I do not understand what I need to do with the current wiring. What can I use thats already there and what do I need to buy? Is there any step by step instructions on the net I could follow. The car is a stock 305 with the auto trans. This motor is dynoed at 450 hp. What else should I do to protect the trans, rear end etc. Thanks in advance for your help in this matter!!! Ron

Just as a side note, I am not looking for a daily driver, this is going to be a weekend car, for street and the occasional strip. Just to blast around with my 4 sons to work on and play with. But I want it radical!!!
The motor has a tunnel ram on it currently. What do you think I should do to it?

[WS6HUMMER]

I would try to use the TPI setup off the 305, if it is TPI. You may have to slot the bolt holes on the intake and get bigger injectors but I think it'd be very worth the trouble. The TPI system is a good design, that's why there are a few aftermarket versions of it out there. For your trans, I would reccomend going with a built blue clutch TH400,although you will have to have your drive shaft modified. You also need to call a converter company with you cam lift,duration, and lobe separation so they can tell you the proper stall speed for maximum power out of that 383. Since it's not a daily driver get solid metal motor mounts, they will help you keep from loosing engine torque. I promise you the solid mounts wont vibrate as bad as some people say they do (I have them in my 516hp 383 powered 79 vette). If you do go with the solid mounts use a polyurethane trans mount. The rear end in the f bodies are weak, you can put a girdle on it but if your 383 makes 450hp you wanna go with a 12 bolt. There are a few companies out there that sell these rear ends ready to bolt in starting around $2k. I would recomend 3.73 or 4.10 gears. Subframe connectors would also be a must in your car. If you did this you'd be good for mid 11's, hope my helps

Hummer

[Broker-Ron]

Thanks for your help that info does help and those are the numbers I am after, mid 11's!!!

[1992RS]

If you go with the TPI then you need to make sure that you get big enough enjectors or your waisting your motor. but since you have a a tunnel ram on it I would go with a 750-800 double pumper carb if it's single carb or two 650's if it's a dual quad. Another idea to think about as far as converters go is a locking torque converter. You can rev your engine up to where ever and not go anywhere till you hit a button or flip a switch. But the TH400 is a must. I would go with 3.73 gears for the simple fact that you will be driving it on the street and a 4000RPM 55mph kinda sucks. As far as far as driveline and suspension parts..go to www.fbody.org they have a few links to some really good parts distributors. I'm not for sure which one it is, but the other day I saw a driveshaft/torque arm combo just for what you need. You'll need a driveshaft that's about 3 inches shorter than what you got, and it comes with a new adjustable torque arm. The 12 bolt is a great idea, but a ford 9 inch is a reall good choice as well. And the plus with both are disk brakes. Plus strength and durability. Get an after market pan hard bar, wonder bar, and strut brace. Along with the sub frame connectors. Our third gens are bad for twisting. Look at those links at fbody for shocks and struts. Anything to keep the sticky to the pavement. And as far as wiring it all depends. The only thing you'll really have to worry about is ignition. You can go a couple ways here. If you go with the TPI then you're all ready set up. Just get a chip or you'll run like shit. If you go carb then you have either electronic ignition with a controll box, or HIE. They both will come with step by step instructions. Either way I believe all you have to do is hook the red wire to the ignition and the black to ground. Well my brain is fried. If I missed anything I'm sure there is some one here that will let me know..Good luck.

[1992RS]

thirdgen.org dude, sorry. It's been a long day.

[89IROC&RS]

who else to set you strait than me 92RS

ok let me put a damper on the super parts blowout on here. the 700R4 and even the wimpy rear end will more than handle the 450hp hes talking about if you build em somewhat right. im building a 430+ hp TPI small block to put in my IROC and this is my plan. the 700R4 is already built, a B&M trans kit with shift kit, set for stage two performance ($200.00), corvette 1st to 2nd servo (ebay $16.00), paying trans mechanic at work to put it together ($200.00) not having to custom fab or change any mounting or wring hardware, (priceless) for the rear end. i am going with a torsen unit from a fourth gen firebird, (camaro unit is identical) with 3.23 gears. have yet to figure out which company to get the rebuild kit from, but thats pretty much it. the 28 spline axles will take it pretty well, you might twist them a little in oh... ten years or so. but the suspension will need work. subframe connectors number one. torque arm number two, lower control arms on the rear, shocks and springs all the way round. as far as the engine it all depends on what you want to do. the simple thing is to just swap the 383 short block into the place of the 305. externally they are identical. and everything will bolt right up. except for the heads on the 383, that is a variable that will deside if you have to get a new TPI baseplate. you will have to get a new chip for the computer, custom burned for your application. and a more powerful ignition never hurt anyone. larger injectors. the stock rating of the 350 injectors, with an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator, with the pressure up, should work just fine. as far as a built TH400 and 12 bolt rear, i think that would be overkill for a 450hp street motor. but thats just me. im very budget minded.

[1992RS]

Well I wasn't completly crooked now was I? I keep forgetting that one most important question, are you on a budget. And I guess I was also thinking that a 383 should be pushing a hell of a lot more than 450HP. And your right, as long as your staying under like 500 hp the 700R4 will do just fine. But it adds to the cool effect. But what about this...what if in the future, he wants to add some major mods? I usualy think ahead like that though. I've seen some torn up 700's come off the track. But if you're wanting to do it all yourself, and save some money, then go with Iroc. But every one has there own opinion on what to do. SAVY!!!!

[89IROC&RS]

lol, aw 92RS you know im just playin, you left yourself open on that one so you know i had to take advantage of it but yeah, for dependablity and all, you were right on the money, no pun intended. if you have money to burn, the 12 bolt is the way to go. but i would stick with the 700 for the overdrive. i have yet to see "bad" advice on this thread.

[1992RS]

Oh...and for god sakes get a rachet shifter. B&M hammer shifter is a great looking and performing shifter. I absolutly love mine. And you can use if to 3 or 4 speed tranny.

[89IROC&RS]

??????????????????????????????????????????WHA???? 92RS did you just say you ahve a ratchet shifter????? that means you have a *gasp* automatic/?????? dude, what happend, i thought you were hardcore manual?

[1992RS]

Hey, give me a break. I am a hard core manual but there fucking hard to come by. So yes, I do have an automatic in my track car. It's a TH400 and it's bad ass. But don't tell anyone ok. It's a secret..besides, it has a manual valve body..that counts right?????

[carguyinok]

I had a 383 stroker in my 73 Stingray that was around 425 HP. Yes, go with the solid motor mounts. The performance gain is nice, But for me theres no other feeling like sitting at a light and having the car bob back n forth from the wild cam
The only thing I had issue with on mine. I kept cracking valve springs The cam in it didnt come to life untill around 3500 RPM so I was always playing on the highside of the rpm's. 383's love it there Well, Most of the time I would bring it on by floating the valves I had a tach with the rev limiter, It was also for keeping the valet parking guys at the casinos from getting on it. I would turn the tach down so they had just enough to park it. But them getting it back I would set it to high
I think your gona love the motor. The 73 vette was more of a tank then a vette IMO and that motor pushed it into the low 12s on its own power then mid 11s with the fog on.

[Genopsyde]

call me stupid, but where do you get these custom burned computer chips from anyway?

[1992RS]

You can order them from www.hypertech-inc.com or if you have a shop in your area that can do it. I know there's one here in Jacksonville.

[89IROC&RS]

lol, your forgiven 92RS definatley nothing wrong with coming to the dark side, just cought me by surprise, im gnona have to take a min to collect myself