Technical Help Here Please.....

[m0nee]

Okay, So I am new here guys. Nice to meet all ya!

I am also new to the Mazda Rotary world as well. Became interested when I first witnessed an RX7 popping wheelies smoked a 2003 viper running low 12's and high 11's. I was inspired by the power the monster had put off that evening.

Anyhow the thing is, I just purchased a near mint condition 1986 RX7 GTU body with only the tranny in it and no Engine in hopes of finding a Turbo II to throw in it. Just two days ago, I found a Turbo II engine for only $500 which came out of an 89 RX7. Pretty cool deal huh?? However, I guess all I need to know is if it is possible to run the engine with the regular GTU type tranny and ECU? Will the tranny bolt right up to the engine? Any complications... etc...?? How would the performances differ in this case?

All inputs would greatly be appreciated!

Thanks,
$ m0nee

[J-Rat]

Originally Posted by m0nee

Anyhow the thing is, I just purchased a near mint condition 1986 RX7 GTU body with only the tranny in it and no Engine in hopes of finding a Turbo II to throw in it. Just two days ago, I found a Turbo II engine for only $500 which came out of an 89 RX7. Pretty cool deal huh?? However, I guess all I need to know is if it is possible to run the engine with the regular GTU type tranny and ECU? Will the tranny bolt right up to the engine? Any complications... etc...?? How would the performances differ in this case?

All inputs would greatly be appreciated!

Thanks,
$ m0nee

Okay, the ECU will NOT run the TII motor. At the very least, here is what your going to need:


Complete turbo engine with intercooler

Left-hand drive spec turbo wiring harness

Turbo ECU (jspec ecu will work, as well as convertible ecu of the same
year range)

*only for 87-88 turbo* knock control box, a small silver box up inside the
passenger kick panel that plugs into the wiring harness. On 89 and later
setups, the ecu handled this function.

turbo boost sensor.

Turbo throttle cable. 87-91 are interchangeable.

Stock turbo fuel pump (87-91 turbo pumps are the same, but the bracket is
not) or upgrade such as walbro 255. A rewire for full voltage from the
fusebox is also recommended, as well as a re-ground in the hatch to bare
metal, a new pickup screen and fuel filter.

Stock turbo intake duct with blow off valve (if not present on engine
already). The 87-88 TID is smaller than the 89-91, but either can be used
in place of the other. Blow off valves are slightly changed but basically
the same.

Stock t2 precat/downpipe and midpipe (bolts to main cat) or
aftermarket/custom equivalent.

T2 hood with scoop (unless you go front mount intercooler from day 1)

Turbo air flow meter (your old nonturbo afm will get you by if you cannot
find one, however the turbo afm is said to be calibrated for slightly
higher air flow on top end so it is something that might matter once you
begin to push the car).

Aftermarket boost gauge is recommended. Even though 89-91 owners can
install the 89-91 turbo gauge cluster and the gauge will work, it is still
not very helpful. 87-88 owners cannot install the stock turbo gauge cluster
and expect it to work, the wiring harness differs in this area.

Aftermarket upgraded clutch and pressureplate. Remember, you're buying
this for a nonturbo, not a turbo, since you're using your old NA drivetrain
still.

[Soyo]

might as well get a 3rotor if your gonna go through all the work and you don't have an engine anyway... just a thought

[Entreri33]

Well he has the parts so a 3 rotor conversion would be a huge expense and it sounds like money could easily be a factor since a 3 rotor conversion can easily be $10k

However since your running natrualy aspitrated drive train behind your T2 motor you CAN NOT do any serious mods to your engine. The "NA" parts are only good for about a 200-225 hp NA motor. THe torque from the T2 will break things once you start dogging it. You need to eventually swap the tranny and entire rear subframe assembly. dont worry that swap isnt too bad as long as its not a cold rainy day that you do it on.... that truely sucks.

Good luck.

[Steel]

easily START at 10k for the cheapest way, and easily climb up over 20 if you wanna be a monster.