1992 Blazer S10 tailgate locked with window closed

[davis123]

1992 Blazer S10 tailgate locked closed with window shut
Two weeks ago the lock worked very hard so we lubricated the mechanism as by spraying the latch WD-40 and the lock with liquid graphite when it was open. We opened it with the key as usual by turning it to the left. The latch closed very hard and has not opened since. Had to push the window very hard to get the latch at the window handle level to catch.
The dash board button has not worked in two years. At night the dome light dims slightly when the dash board button is pushed to open the window of the tailgate.
Where is the access hole to work on the lock cylinder and mechanism? We cannot get the trim panel off since the window will not open. We guess we will have to cut the trim panel to get to the lock cylinder and lever and access hole. Or can one drill the lock out with out doing damage to other things? The Chilton’s book shows a retainer ring but no good picture of the exact location of the access hole.
We have tried most of the posted tailgate and lock mechanism ideas. Thanks for past suggestions. We have copied them and tried the ideas.
Hope someone has some help. Thanks, Don

Got it opened:
How I opened the locked rear window:
Blazer, 1992 S10, I drilled from the center of the latch [1/4 inch hole] hole 2 inches down and 1 inch to the left from the inside back [sitting down and facing the back window and tailgate]. Then put a 1/8 inch screw driver in 1 inch through the plastic liner and pushed the lock mechanism down for the glass and it popped open. I did not push hard. If you go in about 1-½ inches you will hit a spring for part of the latch mechanism which is part of the same piece. I hit the spring once and backed up a little. I closed the hatch window again and tried the screwdriver again and it opened again.
The key lock usually opens the window by pushing it to the left and down. The lock mechanism actually pushes a metal piece down about 1/8 to a ¼ of an inch. If you have a push button opener on the dashboard, it pulls that piece of metal down instead of doing it with the key and turning the lock to the left.
I used the same mechanism that is connected to both sides of the latch. You can push from the inside facing the back window much easier than trying to reach to long metal piece that the key lock pushes down or the actuator cable pulls down [if you have the electric button on the dashboard].
How did we find this. Our neighborhood, a full time mechanic, had a customer drive up with a 1986 Blazer with the tailgate lock missing. We looked in the hole and measured the distances mentioned above. I then drilled one small quarter inch hole and inserted a screwdriver and opened the latch by pushing gently down on the metal protruding from the latch mechanism.
The inside of the tailgate was as clean as it was when it came off the assembly line so nothing was rusted up. The key lock will not open the window yet so it must be replaced. The actuator cable is slack so it will have to be replaced if electrical cleaner does not free it up.
There was one post [Z, and he said: I used an allan key -- the "L" shape was exactly what I needed to pop the latch. If you're sitting in the back of the Blazer facing the locked hatch, just turn the allan key sideways so you can slide it between the glass and the plastic panel. Once you have it in there, turn it so that the bottom of the "L" shape points towards the front of the vehicle and, just press down... It only took a couple of tries and the hatch popped open for me.]
What he hit was the same lever that holds the small spring mentioned above. This lever is to the left of the latch about one inch [towards the passenger side], when sitting in the back facing the back tailgate.
Hope this help some others in the future. Thanks of all the comments sent to help with the problem. Don

[OverBoardProject]

Welcome to AF davis

Mine is a 85, so it might not be the same, however they are the same body style so they might be.

Sorry, no access hole. However it isn't too hard to take the panel off even with the window closed.

Remove every screw that you can find around the panel, and you'll find that it's almost loose.

Next pull the bottom out as much as possible, then you'll have to pull it up 1 side at a time.
You'll actually be ripping the plastic around last 2 screws, but only you will ever know this (it may have been done already)
At this point it'll slide past the window.

When you get it off you'll see a thin cable going to the window release mechanism. Pull it in the same direction and the glass will pop.

While you've got everything apart take the window popper out and replace it with a new one (as long as it isn't just frozen due to lack of lube)

Oil all moving parts in there with a spray on penetrating grease. WD40 can cause problems with ths sort of thing, since it can desolve all existing grease.

Now you can put it back together

[rental blazer]

i had the prob with my 85 too and i also suggest finding a place that carrys white litiaim grease or however u spell that in the spray can ( i got mine at harbor figth tools ) and heavly spray all moving parts with it this stuff also works very well for door creaks on the hinge...or if u don't mind getting dirty u can try some heavy greese such as the same grease you are using to lube your zerks (unless someone advices agsest it) * on a side note after using grease do not smoke until cleaning your hands very very well just a little of that grease on a smoke will kill ya somthing about cemical reaction*

[OverBoardProject]

I don't smoke, so I didn't know that Rental, thanks for mentioning it.

I don't think that the thick grease will penetrate enough, but I might be wrong. It would be fine for cables, and anything that you have right apart though (the best even)

[rental blazer]

Originally Posted by OverBoardProject

I don't smoke, so I didn't know that Rental, thanks for mentioning it.

I don't think that the thick grease will penetrate enough, but I might be wrong. It would be fine for cables, and anything that you have right apart though (the best even)

that is true howver thats why i said willing to get dirty cuz u gonna have to move the parts as u lube (carefully) and kinda pressure it in by hand if possable to get stuff greased out since that type of qrease last for years in heavy stress items it would prob. last for a lifetime on this type of thing i used it on a mazda with manual windows that were impossable to open til i put some red grease made for zerk fitting on it then it opeteated smooth as a brand new car for the rest of the year i owned it ...