b16a lsd vs b16a non lsd

[91blublaze]

ok i'm doing research on what i should go wit for an engine swap i wanted a 90-91 b18a non vtec ls motor cause it response good to mods etc, and is easier to install in my car (by the way i have a 91 4dr lx), but the b16's are everywhere in my searchs. so i seen this b16a sir w lsd 140hp and 111lbs torque for $2200 but theres a b16a sir with out lsd for $1800 and these swaps come with cable, trans, mounts, ecu, and axles. im not ready to drop that type of cash just yet but when i am for sake of reseach is lsd worth the extra 400 bucks? from what i know lsd prevents torque from escaping to one or the other wheel right? from you guys experience and gals is that worth my money cause i want the power and speed but i dont plan on hitting the track frequently. i know i dont want vtec and i gotta taste the power of the swapped engine b4 i say i dont wanna turbo charge it etc. basically i want engine thats not too much of a pain to swap in cause i wanna do it myself.....not a mech but i think i can do this project plus i'll become ...with time lol. so b16a lsd vs b16a non lsd (vs dif b18's) these are just some im pondering.

thanks 4 feed back

[hondaracer]

Go with the b16 with lsd. Believe me you'll thank yourself for it later on when you start tuning your engine and you're thankful you have a lsd. You'd feel much more traction and and of course acceleration vs a non lsd. So get the b16 lsd

[jcrx]

If you don't launch and corner hard, you could never tell if you had LSD or not. For everyday driving it is not really nescessary, but in autoX, drag etc... where you're trying to get it all to the ground, it is essential.

[91blublaze]

ok so i'll probally be lookin into b16a w/out lsd since im not racing consistantly or not at all. but is the b16a the better choice over the b18a? although i've read the b18a is a easier to wire because the pre obd electronics are compatible with my car. so b16 or b18?

[jcrx]

There are OBD 0 B16A's, as far as compatability, no US spec 88-91 civic/crx is completely drop in, some need to be converted to MPFI from DPFI, off the top of my head I don't remember what your LX is, but I'm sure you do so it doesn't matter. You'll need a mount kit for any B series B18A (teg), or B16A, whatever, you might be able to get a old Accord B18A, or prelude B20 in there, but why?

[91blublaze]

ok so my first question was answered ....i would opt for b16a w/out lsd if i chose the b16 line, but now im asking pros cons for b16a vs b18a. im asking because most people are getting the b16a (speaking loosely opposed to b18a, i just see more b16's) and i've pretty much narrowed my choice to these two and i and still leaning toward the b18a from the 90-91 teg ls non vtec, but since i found that b16a w all that stuff included for approx 1800 i wanted to know how the b16a stands up to the b18a better or worst. b18a>>> <<<b16a.

[Jeff C]

I would choose the b18 cause it has more torque. Your b18 equipped ED would beat another b16 equipped ED from stoplight to stoplight. Add some giggle juice to it and you have a decent little street car.

my

[91blublaze]

Originally Posted by Jeff C

I would choose the b18 cause it has more torque. Your b18 equipped ED would beat another b16 equipped ED from stoplight to stoplight. Add some giggle juice to it and you have a decent little street car.

my

Thanks Jeff C I believe thats why i was leaning towards b18a torque base is more. Get a good foundation and build from there. Not knocking the b16a hell im still stock w engine problems, i'll take anything at equal or higher value ofcourse (damn headgasket is blown again ) but my uncle is gonna put anova stock engine in it for free by thanksgiving, I tried to talk him into the b series but he looked at me like im crazy and dont ask again or else u get nothing look. is the b18a easier to install than the b16a?

[jcrx]

Originally Posted by Jeff C

I would choose the b18 cause it has more torque. Your b18 equipped ED would beat another b16 equipped ED from stoplight to stoplight. Add some giggle juice to it and you have a decent little street car.

my

You should have kept the change, there is no way that two fairly equal drivers, and car weights, that a B18A ED is going to take a B16A ED. Torque does win races, but only if it is producing Hp to match. Given the scenerio of say a B16 hatch, and a brand new cavalier, who'd win. The B16 only has 111ftlbs compared to the cav 150, and the B16 is only pushing 20 more Hp, but guess what, I know for a fact the cav is going to lose, because I've seen it from the drivers seat of my hatch. Torque will get you moving faster, but from there on it's Hp.

[Jeff C]

Torque is where its at. Horspower is just a number based on torque. You have to wind out a b16 in order to feel its little power.

I'd still go ls. You could do vtec head swap on to the ls in the future and have the best of both worlds.

[jcrx]

You're right, Hp is a numberbased on torque, but more torque DOES NOT = faster car.

[Ricochet]

The B16 will beat a cav because of the higher redline.. it's up around its peak hp longer, from 5k-8k, while the cav redlines around 6700 or so.

If I'm making 185hp from 118tq, that's pretty impressive

[jcrx]

Originally Posted by Ricochet

The B16 will beat a cav because of the higher redline.. it's up around its peak hp longer, from 5k-8k, while the cav redlines around 6700 or so.

If I'm making 185hp from 118tq, that's pretty impressive

Yip, I got one by two car lengths. He got a jump on me at the light (more torque), but got bested within in a couple seconds (usable powerband) and just dropped further behind from there.

[Jeff C]

Originally Posted by jcrx

You're right, Hp is a numberbased on torque, but more torque DOES NOT = faster car.

How not? Well what makes a faster car?

[jcrx]

Originally Posted by Jeff C

How not? Well what makes a faster car?

A little thing known as usable powerband. Just because a engine displaces more air fuel, in a shorter amount of time, doesn't mean it's faster. Look at a Mack truck, huge torque, not real fast.