Replacing Lower Ball Joint 1996 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4x4

[tinkering]

1996 Chevy Cheyenne 3/4 Ton 4x4 (K2500)
Long Box Extended Cab (2 door)
Wheel Base 155 inch
Heavy Duty GVW 8600 lbs

I am not happy to see that the lower ball joint is the 'pressed in' version; the upper ball joint is the riveted type, where the replacement bolts back in place. Why have one of each type on the same vehicle?!!

The manual has me doing something like unbuttoning the tie rod end, the drive shaft, the hub, dropping the steering knuckle, and the whole lower control arm. Is there a simpler way? It looks to me like I could get away with unbuttoning the sway bar link, the lower shock bolt; separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle with a fork and hammer, and then hinging the control arm down enough to get one of those clamp or puller style ball joint removing tools on it. I am very leery about those tools having enough oomph to move that joint out of the control arm, because of the massive pressure it took for us to move the upper control arm bushings when we were using a 30 ton hydraulic press to replace them. Although, is the ball joint as large in diameter as the control arm bushing? There is a lot of corrosion down there.

Do the torsion bars become a big concern in the process of removing the lower control arm, or even hinging it down like I described?

I have a deadline to get this work done in 2 days

[gmtech1]

Basically you need to make enough room to get to the ball joint openly. You dont have to remove the lower arm from the truck. After you have access to the joint, support the arm with a jackstand. Be sure the arm is high enough off the floor to use the ball joint tool. The ball joint tools usualy are able to remove the joint if you can turn the drive bolt. If not, don't be afraid to beat the snot out of the joint housing with a hammer to drive it out, been there and done that.

[tinkering]

Originally Posted by gmtech1

Basically you need to make enough room to get to the ball joint openly. You dont have to remove the lower arm from the truck. After you have access to the joint, support the arm with a jackstand. Be sure the arm is high enough off the floor to use the ball joint tool. The ball joint tools usualy are able to remove the joint if you can turn the drive bolt. If not, don't be afraid to beat the snot out of the joint housing with a hammer to drive it out, been there and done that.

Thanks for getting back gmtech1. I have run out of time for doing this job myself. I need to have an inspection finalized and my insurance settled by tomorrow; there is no way I can purchase the ball joint tool kit, the parts, and get the work done in time; not to mention that it is still 20 below.
I found a good shop that will do both joints for a good price, and have it done this afternoon. Sometimes things just work out different.

Thanks a bunch anyway. I will reference this thread if/when the time comes to change the ball joints on the other side.
I might have a rear main seal to replace in the future; I will start a thread for that one too.