And now..the dreaded PCM failure..

[oldgearhead]

Our 2001 Windstar ran flawlessly for 30 days! Yes, it ran better than it did
when we bought it used in 2004, and even better than right after the top end overhaul in 2011. We had no, that's right, no 'Check Engine' light for the first time ever! That's because we:
1) Did the intake manifold repair, including a couple of missing parts: a bank 1 IMRC actuator linkage and the intake manifold baffle.
2) Replaced the bad EGR pressure feedback sensor and the cracked ignition coil.
3) New plugs and wires.

Now we need to remove:
1) Windshield wipers.
2) Hood.
3) Plastic cowl.
4) Metal cowl.
5) All that RTV I used to insure a long life for the PCM.

Why do I have to do it again? The PCM died on the road at 50 mph last Wednesday night. How do I know it's the PCM?:
1) No starter or ignition, but lights, and power seats are working fine.
2) No longer communicates with scanner.
3) Fuses 19 & 20 are fine.
4) PCM control relay and diode check out okay.
5) After setting idle for a couple of days the battery voltage is 13.0.

[oldgearhead]

Okay, pulling the PCM was pretty easy, because of my recent experience with TSB 03-16-1 and etc.

It's a 1F2F-12A650-BE and the inside of the metal case shows signs of very old water entry but the conformal coating is fine and the connector looks very clean. Probably because someone installed a rubber flap over it many years ago.

Now I'm looking at three options:
1) Send it in for a rebuilt, cost $160 with very long warranty. The warranty is 'lifetime' but I don't know how old he his.
2) Buy an exact same number unit that has been 'flashed' with the latest updates for my van. This warranty my be shorter. It's for the life of my Windstar. Cost $125.00 and I get to keep my old unit!
3) Drive about 50 miles North and pick one at a yard for $50.00. No warranty..

I'm pretty sure my Windstar IS PATSII equipped. It has a blinking 'Theft' light and fat keys. So maybe the rebuild is the answer.

Has anyone out there replaced their Power-train Control Module? Did you have PATS issues?

[12Ounce]

Before I went very far (before spending big money), I would do a pin-to-pin verification of all harnesses ... especially the power train harness. Prove conductivity, no cross-talk, no grounding .... takes a little time, but time well spent, I think.
.
After that I would prove the alternator puts out a constant 13.75 -14.25 volts with no "noise".
.
....then I might condemn the PCM.

[oldgearhead]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

Before I went very far (before spending big money), >Snip<
.
After that I would prove the alternator puts out a constant 13.75 -14.25 volts with no "noise".
.
....then I might condemn the PCM.

Hummm, so how do I turn the alternator?

[12Ounce]

A bench test should show all you need about the alternator..
.
And I'm also betting you find issues when you check the harnesses ... and you will be able to start-up afterwards.

[oldgearhead]

12Ounce -
I really don't follow your logic. Setting in my garage the PCM no longer communicates with my scanner. Are you saying the alternator burned a power-train cable and my PCM is fine? I don't think so. I will check the circuits from C103/PCM to C216/DLC and DLC pin 16 for power but I'll bet they are fine.

Upon disassembly, the PCM has a faint burnt resistor smell. PCMs are available for $40.00 on up. I think the much bigger issue here is PATS. If I install another PCM a Ford certified locksmith must come to my house and re-program my transponder keys.

Summary of choices:
1) Pulled PCM from a nearby yard $50.00 plus $105.00 locksmith.
2) Tested, updated, and guaranteed PCM $125.00 plus $105.00 locksmith.
3) Send PCM in for repair. Cost $35 -$125

I'm going to try choice 3. I'll let you know how it goes.

[12Ounce]

I just don't how a PCM burns out ...without a harness or alternator issue. I'm sure it can happen without external influences ... but we would hate for the new/repaired PCM to get "cremated". Good luck.

[oldgearhead]

Okay, I checked the resistance from each, populated, pin to both Ground (chassis negative) and Vcc (battery +). The only thing that looks slightly questionable is pin 16 (circuit 914, SCP+) at 125 ohms. However, I know SCP networks aren't very fussy about the pair's impedance because they are pretty slow.

I don't understand the thought process behind the I/O layout. It's a programmer's nightmare.

My results are attached.

[oldgearhead]

Update on the PCM problem:
Installed the 'repaired' PCM. However, I will be sending it back to the repair tech
because pin 71 of the PCM is shorted to ground and all that happens is fuse 20 blows when power is applied. The circuit (361) is 2M ohms until C103 is connected to the PCM, then it reads 7 ohms. I'll keep you updated....

[oldgearhead]

I send the PCM to a third party and the report is the UART is blown (No communications).
The first repair tech did nothing but thought he re-flashed it. I WILL be getting ALL my money back. ..more later...

btw - I sent an email to Ford asking if circuit 915 (SCP Data-) is susposed to be grounded at the ABS module, or not.
The printed "2001 Wiring Diagrams/Windstar" say yes, but the later 1996-2002 DVD say no..Do you think I'll get an answer?

[oldgearhead]

Update 07/08/2014;
It lives! I got a re-manufactured PCM with two transponder key blanks programmed to the new PCM (Did I forget to mention my Windstar is equipped with P.A.T.S.). ...and it is running again. Tomorrow I'll be taking on the ABS module.

[12Ounce]

That's clever that they included new key transponders ... good for them and you!

[oldgearhead]

Originally Posted by oldgearhead

>snip<

btw - I sent an email to Ford asking if circuit 915 (SCP Data-) is susposed to be grounded at the ABS module, or not.
The printed "2001 Wiring Diagrams/Windstar" say yes, but the later 1996-2002 DVD say no..Do you think I'll get an answer?

I went a few rounds with Ford Customer Service.
case# CAS-4648613-L1X1R6 CRM:03259000003405

I was only trying to discover:
1) If page 42-3 of the "2001 Wiring Diagrams/Windstar, FCS-1225501" had a
mistake showing circuit 915 (Data bus-) grounded at the ABS module?
2) Where are the data bus terminating resistors located?

I would like to know because on my Windstar only one-half of the bus is terminated and there is none of the promised redundancy.

Ford Customer Service after trying to defend the accuracy of of "FCS-1225501" , admitted they didn't have the answer and, of course, they refused
to involve an engineer in the discussion. They suggested I contact the local service department. So, I sent the two questions to them. After a couple of calls from the Internet Sales Manager, I was assured their Tech Specialist was working on the answers. ...That was three weeks ago...

Before contacting Ford Customer Service, I tried one of those on-line ask-an-expert services. That was a joke. However, I must admit they can read the same manuals I have well.

Also I contacted James Halderman who writes training manuals, with no luck so far. However, he does agree with me in that both legs of the bus should be
resistor terminated.

Are simple, critical, questions like these beyond the scope of FOMoCo??

[12Ounce]

It's a real shame that Ford does not support corrections to their service documentation beyond the 5 years (I think I read this somewhere) that they offer to accept "corrections". I have found several obvious errors in their diagrams ... but not early enough to be archived. I am convinced the engineers send off notes to the documentation guys ... and then never, never do any serious proof reading before press.

[oldgearhead]

Dear 12Oz,
Actually the question about the wiring diagram is a kind of a 'red herring'.
Because I know that mistake was corrected in the April 2006 release of the "1996-2002 Service Information, FCS-13801-LEGACY5" DVD. My intent is to locate someone who knows the answer to the second question:

Where, are the SCP/J1850 PWM terminating resistors located in a 2001 Windstar?