1996 camry 4 cylinder

[MYTBIRD50HO]

Hello everyone I am normally a Ford guy, but I had just recently bought a 96 camry with 100,000 miles. Body is alittle beat up but engine and trans run great. I use this car for back and forth from work so I want to make sure she is in tip top shape. Is timing belt hard to do? Ive done them on my mustang before but never on a transverse engine. I also notice an oil leak coming from the back side of the timing cover then down the side of the cover and dripping on the ground, any ideas on that? Either then that shes a great car and gets good mileage. I bought her for 500.00 thats a steal I can think. Interior is clean and I feel its a great car so any info would help me alot. Thanks.

[jdmccright]

Space is a little limited between the "front" of the engine and the passenger side fender, but a timing belt change isn't all that hard.

The oil is probably coming from one or more oil seals that can also be replaced while doing the timing belt. There are three: camshaft, crankshaft, and oil pump.

Some would also argue to replace the water pump with each timing belt change...I would say every other belt change. Finally, there is a belt tensioner and idle pulley inside. For 100k, I'd say they are okay unless you can hear a problem while spinning them with the belt removed.

Check the stickies at the top of the forum for the replacement procedure and tips.

Welcome to AF and good luck!

[Moppie]

The Camry's have heaps of room for a belt change.
Yes, it's less than a RWD lay out, but once you get in there you will find it's quite doable.

If you don't know the history of the car, then now is a good time to do the water pump, and make sure you do the tensioner pulley and bearing. These parts are designed to only last as long as the timing belt, and are not expensive to replace.
Note, the new belts will last 100,000kms, but the factory fitted belt is only rated to 80-90,000kms.

Oil leak is most likely the cam shaft seal, but give the engine a really good degrease and clean before you start work, then you can properly isolate it.
One of our cars recently had an oil leak mis diagnosed. It was originally thought to be a main bearing seal, but a proper clean showed it was a cracked sump which is cheaper and easier to fix

[jdmccright]

Hardest part is removing the engine side of the "dogbone" torque strut mount. The bolts for it are right where the wheel well flares inwards and the A/C lines are less than an inch from the bolt heads. Can't use a ratchet, the mount is shaped so that even the new ratchet wrenches don't fit well and very narrow to get a hand in there.

Next after that is getting the crankshaft pulley bolt off...most people just wedge a breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter rather than trying to hold the crank AND remove a tight bolt.

If you can swing it, I'd suggest replacing all the seals while it is apart:

1) Camshaft oil seal
2) Oil pump shaft seal
3) Oil pump body seals (2 pcs)
4) Crankshaft oil seal
5) Water pump seal (if the pump isn't replaced)
6) Timing belt cover seals (2 pcs)

I missed doing the oil pump body seals @ 200k...thought about it but didn't act on the gut feeling...and now it's leaking. But know that to replace one of them requires removal of the oil pan (or at least partial removal) since its body forms part of the pan seal.

[Brian R.]

An alternative to bumping the starter to loosen the crank bolt is using some pipe to extend a breaker bar and a chain wrench which is wrapped around the flat spot on the crank pulley (not the pullys themselves). This is a good method to use since you will have to have a way of torquing the bolt upon assembly. The starter bump only works for loosening and then you have to find a way to hold the crank for torqueing the crank bolt.