'99 blazer oil leak

[bass_caster]

my mom has a '99 blazer w/4.3l with only about 40,000 miles on it. its had a slow leak for a while. its not too heavy, maybe a 1/2 qt per oil change. it just enough to make a couple drops on the ground when parked for a few days and to make the underside of the engine wet. initially i though it was the oil filter housing, but it looks like its actually above that. i'm thinking it might be one of the lines that goes from the pil filter housing to the oil cooler. its on of those steel to rubber lines. how common is it for one of those steel to rubber lines to leak...maybe at the joint?? thanks

[viggy58]

it def happens. here's some info

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=oil+cooler

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=oil+cooler

[ZL1power69]

The oil cooler lines leak at the crimps. Replacement hoses are usually triple crimped instead of double to reduce the possibility of a leak and cost between $30-$50 for each set. Other areas to check in the front are the front timing cover, crank position sensor, and oil pan gasket.

[Rick Norwood]

Without sounding like a TV commercial, go to WWW.RockAuto.com and look up your make model and year for the oil cooler lines. You want the Dorman's brand hoses ONLY! DO NOT BUY OR SETTLE FOR ANY OTHER BRAND! They are better than the original OEM lines and a whole lot cheaper. Price around but Rockauto is the cheapest I've ever found.

And yes, All of the OEM Hoses will leak sooner or later.

[TCGrove]

I have replaced these on my 99 Blazer 4x4 three times over 158,000 miles. As stated, they leak at the crimps. Hose clamps will not solve the problem. You have to replace the line. I used Doorman. They're OK, but don't last forever. Somewhere on this site is someone's fix using various fittings and lines (i.e. no crimps). If you do this job yourself with the Doorman line, I will save you some time. The job is easy, but you will have to lift your engine by placing a board and jack under the oil pan...and lift the engine just a little (1/2") so the bracket will clear the tiny space between the engine and wheel well. You use a couple long extensions to reach the bolts. The lines on the radiator have these little metal tabs that have to be pulled out before removing the lines. There are some walk throughs on the web. Hope this helps.

Found this link in the how to section (Page 2)
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=764277