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#1 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Jordan, Utah
Posts: 710
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Time For A Brake Bleed
I know how to bleed the brakes, but I just don't remember which wheel to start with and which wheel to end with. I seem to remember years back (
) in auto-shop that it was best to start with the rear calipers? I got some Raybestos Advanced Technology law enforcement edition pads and when I retracted the caliper pistons a bunch of fluid leaked out of the resevoir. So I drove it around expecting the level to drop back down so I could top it off and it didn't move! The braking wasn't near what I was expecting either so I'm suspecting air in the system.So can anyone tell me the correct order of the calipers to bleed? Thanks!
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![]() ![]() 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SII V6 S/C 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 ---------------------------------------------------- 1996 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 5.7L V8 1993 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L V8 1991 Ford Probe LX 3.0 V6 1986 Ford Tempo GL 2.3L 4 cyl. |
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#2 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Illinois Land of Snow and Ice
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
I have always started with the right rear which is the farthest from the reservoir then the left rear and the right front and finally the left front. I have never had a problem bleeding the brakes this way. The reason why the reservoir over flowed was when the pads went down, I think you may have topped off the reservoir. When you pressed in the caliper piston on all the calipers this increased the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir.
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#3 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
Quote:
You don't think it hurt anything by retracting the pistons and having all the fluid gush out the resevoir do you?
__________________
![]() ![]() 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SII V6 S/C 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 ---------------------------------------------------- 1996 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 5.7L V8 1993 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L V8 1991 Ford Probe LX 3.0 V6 1986 Ford Tempo GL 2.3L 4 cyl. |
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#4 | ||
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In God We Trust
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
Quote:
Be carefull on the brake bleeders, I'd be willing to bet I would snap all mine off being in MN with the rust. You could just siphen some fluid out of the resivore.
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-2000 Grand Prix GTP 170,000mi (daily driver) -2000 Olds Alero 100,000mi (soon to be DD with gas at $3.45/gal) -1997 Chev K1500 4x4 115,000mi (Natalie's truck [nans_grandprix]) AF "2.0" Community Guidelines Conservative Victory 2012!!! "I'll Keep my Guns, Freedom, and Money. You can Keep the Change!" ----->>>>> Did You Know? <<<<<----- |
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#5 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
No ABS issues and the bleeders are okay, I'm sure. I bled the brakes a couple years ago, but I don't think I did the calipers in the right order. Hopefully I see improved braking after tonight.
__________________
![]() ![]() 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SII V6 S/C 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 ---------------------------------------------------- 1996 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 5.7L V8 1993 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L V8 1991 Ford Probe LX 3.0 V6 1986 Ford Tempo GL 2.3L 4 cyl. |
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#6 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
Well that didn't go to well. The pass rear caliper screw completely stripped. I used everything I could to try and get that thing off - pb blaster, vice grips, everthing. There's not much of it left so looks like I have a new caliper coming.
How are those to replace - I've never done one. Do you just undo the brake line and then pop the new one on? Are there any other special procedures that need to be done because I have ABS?
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![]() ![]() 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SII V6 S/C 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 ---------------------------------------------------- 1996 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 5.7L V8 1993 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L V8 1991 Ford Probe LX 3.0 V6 1986 Ford Tempo GL 2.3L 4 cyl. |
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#7 | |
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In God We Trust
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
Yep, just unbolt the brake line off one, and put it on the new one. You should have new copper seals that come with the new caliper. If not, be carefull to not lose the ones that are on there (one between the caliper and line, other between the line and bolt), and then make sure they are put in in the right direction. It seems to me like one side of them are tapered, and the other side are flat (flat side goes towards the line if I remember right).
Then with the new caliper on there, it may be a good idea to open the bleeders and let it gravity bleed for a few minutes before you step on the brakes or you could cause issues with the ABS system. Be carefull not to get brake fluid on the paint and if you do use a bucket of cold water and lightly was it off. I have seen guys get brake fluid on fenders while bleeding. A few seconds after they notice it, they wipe the fender off with a rag, and end up wiping paint off. That stuff is brutal on your paint.
__________________
-2000 Grand Prix GTP 170,000mi (daily driver) -2000 Olds Alero 100,000mi (soon to be DD with gas at $3.45/gal) -1997 Chev K1500 4x4 115,000mi (Natalie's truck [nans_grandprix]) AF "2.0" Community Guidelines Conservative Victory 2012!!! "I'll Keep my Guns, Freedom, and Money. You can Keep the Change!" ----->>>>> Did You Know? <<<<<----- |
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#8 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
No joy here either. Was doing the brakes on the GP. I had to order new caliper brackets for the front and rear. Had the caliper bolts were either broken or seized in the caliper brackets. So got all my parts in and may tackle the brakes may be tomorrow. I will also have to replace the rear adjustable track bar. The cheapest price I have found is $43.32 which is mail order. Advance auto parts is $94.59, O'reilys is $63.99, and autozone did not have the part listed online.
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#9 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
Couple pieces of advice. Use a 6 point socket on the bleeder bolt. This gives the best chance of "cracking" it loose. Then switch to a (likely) 12pt OE wrench for bleeding purposes.
I use a 1-man brake bleeder kit I got from Summit. Sort of a pump-up bottle that gets partially filled w brake fluid. It has an adapter to the master cylinder cap. So simply build up 15psi and crack the bleeder screw with a short bit of hose until it runs clear. I think its a good maintenance item especially where it snows regularly because the brake fluid is hygroscopic (attracts water - even will pull humidity out of the air). Relative to brake fluid on paint, the newest OEM basecoat clear coat finishes are immune. Reason is brakes are filled "over the fender" in vehicle assembly as opposed to the older system of building an undercarriage complete w filled brakes and then marrying this with the trimmed-out body. However best not to take any chances to be conservative.
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1988 Chevy R-30 1 ton DRW pickup (217k) 1991 Chevy S-10 4WD pickup (192k) 2000 Grand Prix GTP (218k) 2002 GMC Yukon (185k) 2009 G8 - GT (46k) |
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#10 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
I also use flare wrenches which are used for AC repair. That also works good too. As stated above less chance of rounding off the bleeder screw.
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#11 | |
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AF Moderator
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
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'08 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP (Dark Slate Metallic) - LS4 5.3L V8 '02 Oldsmobile Alero GL2 - LA1 3400 V6 '99 Buick Regal LS - L36 Series II 3800 V6 '03 Honda CR250R MX - 2 Stroke 250cc '97 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP - L67 Series II 3800 V6 Supercharged (Sold) Timeslip 08/12/06 AF Community Guidelines |
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#12 | |
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In God We Trust
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
__________________
-2000 Grand Prix GTP 170,000mi (daily driver) -2000 Olds Alero 100,000mi (soon to be DD with gas at $3.45/gal) -1997 Chev K1500 4x4 115,000mi (Natalie's truck [nans_grandprix]) AF "2.0" Community Guidelines Conservative Victory 2012!!! "I'll Keep my Guns, Freedom, and Money. You can Keep the Change!" ----->>>>> Did You Know? <<<<<----- |
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#13 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Illinois Land of Snow and Ice
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
Sure as long it is not any of my cars.
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#14 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Jordan, Utah
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
Well I got the caliper replaced yesterday and bled the rest of the system. For a change of pace, it all seemed to go rather well. The caliper swap wasn't near as bad as I thought it'd be.
I went and did a test-drive afterward and while I did notice improved braking, it seemed like the car pulled to the left when the brake was applied. What usually causes that?
__________________
![]() ![]() 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SII V6 S/C 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L V8 ---------------------------------------------------- 1996 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 5.7L V8 1993 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 5.7L V8 1991 Ford Probe LX 3.0 V6 1986 Ford Tempo GL 2.3L 4 cyl. |
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#15 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Illinois Land of Snow and Ice
Posts: 1,352
Thanks: 12
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Re: Time For A Brake Bleed
When my car usually did that is when the left tire had lower pressure then the right. Or may be the left tire is out of balance?
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