95 blazer won't start

[keebler197]

ok, my wife drove her blazer to work and when she went to leave it wouldn't start. she said that it was driving fine and starting fine all day.
The engine will turn over nice and strong and i also tried to jump it just in case. So it's not the battery. After i tried that, i tried to get it to fire with starting fluid and that didn't work. So because of that i figured that it's not a problem with fuel but spark.
So i went ahead and removed the distributor cap to check for water or corrosion. There was some corrosion so i went ahead and changed the cap, but still nothing.
So now i've moved on to testing the ignition coil. I bought a tester from autozone(the kind you stick in the plug wire and it sparks when starting), i stuck it in the ignition coil (the side where it plugs into the distributor) and tried to get it to show a spark. sadly it didn't. Next i tried to use my OHM tester. I stuck the negitive wire on the coil body and the positive on the post. i got a reading of 3 volts. with the ignition coil wire attached i did the same and got a reading to.
So with these readings does that mean i should get spark? according to the Chitlons manual i should get a reading of infinite resitance. So do I need a new iginiton coil.

If you can't tell im horrible confused. if anyone has any suggestions any help

[keebler197]

ok i went through and pulled the ignition coil off. I think i know have a better understanding of how to use my ohm meter. lol. I first tested the power coming into the coil with the key in the on positon. I got a reading of 12 Volts.
Next i tested the "Primary terminal" on the igniton coil (the slot for the power connection, the one on the right) with the positive in the bottom connector and the negitive one the body of the ignition coil i got a infinate ohms reading.
next came the primary connector/ both positive and negative in the connector. i got a reading of 1.0 to 1.2 ohms. With both of these the OHM meter is set to lowest.
finally i tested the coil resitance by placing one connector on the primary connector and the other on the terminal. and got a reading of 008. (the OHM meter was set to highest.

according to the specs in the manual these should read
Primary resistance 0.3 to 1.3 OHMs
secondary 5,000 to 10,000 OHMs

any thoughts? or did i just confuse everyone else. I think my ignition coil is fine. I have to be missings something.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by keebler197

ok i went through and pulled the ignition coil off. I think i know have a better understanding of how to use my ohm meter. lol. I first tested the power coming into the coil with the key in the on positon. I got a reading of 12 Volts.
Next i tested the "Primary terminal" on the igniton coil (the slot for the power connection, the one on the right) with the positive in the bottom connector and the negitive one the body of the ignition coil i got a infinate ohms reading.
next came the primary connector/ both positive and negative in the connector. i got a reading of 1.0 to 1.2 ohms. With both of these the OHM meter is set to lowest.
finally i tested the coil resitance by placing one connector on the primary connector and the other on the terminal. and got a reading of 008. (the OHM meter was set to highest.

according to the specs in the manual these should read
Primary resistance 0.3 to 1.3 OHMs
secondary 5,000 to 10,000 OHMs

any thoughts? or did i just confuse everyone else. I think my ignition coil is fine. I have to be missings something.

What engine and engine code?
Computer on fender or inside cab?

Old style dist or new flat top dist?
Is dist rotor turning when cranking?

Does fuel pump prime up and what is fuel pressure readings?

[MT-2500]

Ohms test may help but does not always tell all.
Also run a voltage test to everything.
Where are you checking for lose of spark?
At plug wire or out of coil?
Most parts places can test coil and dist module for you.

[keebler197]

The motor is a V6 with the EDI ignition. It has the old style distrubitor with a vertical cap. and the fuel pump does prime for 3 sec after i turn the key on.

well here is what i have tested:
Dist. cap: put new one in
ignition module: good
igniton coil: replaced old and new one tests good
primary feed for igniton coil: good puts out 12v
ignition coil wire: tests good. with key on and pulged into the coil it puts out 12v
also stuck spark plug directly into it, grounded plug, and cranked the motor over trying to get a spark but noting

I wasn't sure about the sticking the spark plug in the wire but it seems like it should show a spark. So just incase i reattached everything and pulled out the #1 plug/wire and still didn't get anything

I also removed the dist. cap and cranked the motor to see if it was turning and it did.

Thanks for you response, any suggestions would help. I don't know what else to check.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by keebler197

The motor is a V6 with the EDI ignition. It has the old style distrubitor with a vertical cap. and the fuel pump does prime for 3 sec after i turn the key on.

well here is what i have tested:
Dist. cap: put new one in
ignition module: good
igniton coil: replaced old and new one tests good
primary feed for igniton coil: good puts out 12v
ignition coil wire: tests good. with key on and pulged into the coil it puts out 12v
also stuck spark plug directly into it, grounded plug, and cranked the motor over trying to get a spark but noting

I wasn't sure about the sticking the spark plug in the wire but it seems like it should show a spark. So just incase i reattached everything and pulled out the #1 plug/wire and still didn't get anything

I also removed the dist. cap and cranked the motor to see if it was turning and it did.

Thanks for you response, any suggestions would help. I don't know what else to check.

On checking for spark best to use a spark jumping tester.
Apark plug does not make a good spark tester.
If ign coil and module is good next step is the dist pickup coil and wiring.

[keebler197]

Ive used both a sprak jump tester and a spark plug.
I ran my volt meter on the wire that goes form the coil to the distrubitor. with the key in the on position it should 12 Volts. I then tested it with the engine trying to crank over, the volts did not go up at all. I thought the coil was meant to boost the amount of volts it puts out.

also when i was testing it. i got it to spark one time, but i could't get it to do it again.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by keebler197

Ive used both a sprak jump tester and a spark plug.
I ran my volt meter on the wire that goes form the coil to the distrubitor. with the key in the on position it should 12 Volts. I then tested it with the engine trying to crank over, the volts did not go up at all. I thought the coil was meant to boost the amount of volts it puts out.

also when i was testing it. i got it to spark one time, but i could't get it to do it again.

Not on the ign feed wire.

[keebler197]

ok i finally tested the pickup coil. and that was the problem. When i was putting the dist back on my socket split in half and hit the vaccum line on the left side of the intake manifold. The socket ripped off the needle where the vacum line connects to.

so now i need to figure out how to replace that needle. Do you know if it screws in at all? right now it is perfectly smooth, so im not sure if screws in or not.
the vacum line i'm talking about is a small with a ID of 1/4" and it directly affects the cars idle, when i plug either the line or the hole in the manifold the car will die. and when its left alone the cars idle will go up and down.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by keebler197

ok i finally tested the pickup coil. and that was the problem. When i was putting the dist back on my socket split in half and hit the vaccum line on the left side of the intake manifold. The socket ripped off the needle where the vacum line connects to.

so now i need to figure out how to replace that needle. Do you know if it screws in at all? right now it is perfectly smooth, so im not sure if screws in or not.
the vacum line i'm talking about is a small with a ID of 1/4" and it directly affects the cars idle, when i plug either the line or the hole in the manifold the car will die. and when its left alone the cars idle will go up and down.

Try to post a picture of it.

[keebler197]

The first picture shows where the vacuum line comes from and where it is supposed to fit on the back side of the intake manifold on the left side of the dist.

The second pic shoes the hole where the need used to be.

finally the third shows another picture of the area where it is supposed to be.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by keebler197

The first picture shows where the vacuum line comes from and where it is supposed to fit on the back side of the intake manifold on the left side of the dist.

The second pic shoes the hole where the need used to be.

finally the third shows another picture of the area where it is supposed to be.

Does not llook like much room there.
It Looks like a main vacuum tap.
If it was a steel nipple in intake you will need to remove intake and drill out and tape hole for a fitting or just plug hole and find another spot for vacuum line.

[keebler197]

well, i pulled the cover off and drilled and tapped a 1/8 x 1/4 threaded barb on there. the car now idles for a couple seconds then it slowly starts to become erratic.
If the timing was off it wouldn't idle erratic like that would it? I thought if it was off it would idle faster or slower right?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by keebler197

well, i pulled the cover off and drilled and tapped a 1/8 x 1/4 threaded barb on there. the car now idles for a couple seconds then it slowly starts to become erratic.
If the timing was off it wouldn't idle erratic like that would it? I thought if it was off it would idle faster or slower right?

Set the base timing and go from there.

[msfan324]

Originally Posted by keebler197

ok i finally tested the pickup coil. and that was the problem. When i was putting the dist back on my socket split in half and hit the vaccum line on the left side of the intake manifold. The socket ripped off the needle where the vacum line connects to.

so now i need to figure out how to replace that needle. Do you know if it screws in at all? right now it is perfectly smooth, so im not sure if screws in or not.
the vacum line i'm talking about is a small with a ID of 1/4" and it directly affects the cars idle, when i plug either the line or the hole in the manifold the car will die. and when its left alone the cars idle will go up and down.

I am curious how did you test the pickup coil and how did you know that was the problem?