Gullwings (yea I know... not again. But this is different)

[Cyprus106]

I'm gonna get crucified for another seemingly "pittiful" thread about gullwings but what the hell... It's a learning experience.

I know We've all seen the idiots that ask about putting gullwings in their cars and stuff, and they're never actually gonna do it and their just plain stoopid and kinda curious I guess.
I've already tried toying with the gullwing thing once and everybody in my city doesn't know a rotary from a piston so they're no help. Maybe somebody on here is.

I've been playing with the concept of gullwings for a long time now, (Lamborghini style) and I've been to a few places online checking out concepts and stuff. I've got the diagram basically down and I know the theory in my sleep. A few friends of mine and I even tried doing it once, (We played with doors and an old accord from a junkyard to test with.) And they worked. But not good. They didnt push out before they went up. They just went up. And they went up rather tediously but it was a small victory for us.


Now I'm looking to do it right this time and seriously instead of curiously. Basically, what I'm doing is adding a hydrolic lift (meaning something similar to the hydrolics pushing up a trunk in the back of a minivan, or an integra trunk) to push the door up, (tilted up lightly and on a free-moving-door type hinge attached to the body. The end inside the door is non-moving. The hinge I mean is like the doors in some restaurants that just freely swing in and out. This is to allow the piston to move the necessary few inches out. Maybe a better part would be a pivot-and-ball type configuration...) I've got a hinge at the top of the door (below the window, not actually at the top... where a normal door has it's highest hinge) to allow it to move outward. The hinge is attached to a flat, circular swivel (kind of like how you spin your office chair). The hinge's two normal parts move side to side, but only a few inches. Then when the hydrolic lift pushes the door up, the circular swivel lets the hinge turn up with it. (If that makes any sense... if it doesn't, I'll scan in a few sketches.)
Use the OEM door latch to keep it down and in, [possibly turn it sideways if the door wants to push up badly due to the hydrolic.] When the driver opens the door, in order to get it pushed out far enough to clear the frame, I'm thinking I'm going to get one of the the 10 or 11 pound strength shaved door solenoids (?) from www.autoloc.com and let it push the door out the necessary 2 or 3 inches. While the doors pushing out, the hydrolic lift takes its place and is pushing up.
The door goes down the same way it came up. Put an ohshit handle in below the cigarette butt holder to grab it to pull down.

There's really only 2 problems with the theory that I'm slightly concerned about. The first one: How to keep the door stable and supported. I've got a rotating hinge allowing the door to swing out a few inches and a hydrolic lift holding it up. The hydrolic lifts are strong, I think they'll hold the door up, but I don't want it shaking or turning or anything. With the addition of the outward hinge, I'd like to believe it'll hold it but I can't be sure.
The second problem: The door going up. When it opens it's no longer latched down so the hydrolic will immedietly start pushing like it's supposed to. theoretically, as it pushes it will naturally push towards the path of least resistance. Meaning, if it starts pushing out, it will start going up because continuing to push straight out means ripping the hinge off the door handle. It can't go down because the swivel doesn't go any further down than what it is at the bottom of the door. (there's going to be an 'L' shaped bar that prevents it from moving more than something like 90 degrees) It's easier for it to go up because the hinge swivles up, therfore it will do just that, go up. That's theoretical. I'd hate to drill everything on there and then try it out and immedietly the hydrolic lift just pushes the door straight out and off or something. Should I have another, smaller hydrolic lift pushing up while the first one pushes out? That might work...

There it is in a nutshell. Does anyone think this'll work? could work? Any problems, suggestions? I'd really like to be confident and know all the pitfalls before I do this to my car. I know what happened to that one we played with in the junkyard.

Thanks a lot for hearing me out.

[auke1]

www.decah.net

There is a topic in the 92+ civic forum, and the link is to a site that has the lambo door conversion on it, sold as a kit.

It'll cost about 1100 dollars...go check it out.

[Cyprus106]

OH yea, I saw that after I put this post up whien I was searching online for some more info... and believe me, if I had 1,100 to spend on a vertical door conversion, I would. But honestly, this is something I've been trying to accomplish for almost a year and I first off dont have the money and second I'd almost rather do it myself just to have accomplished something other than another piece of crap bolt on...
I think.
lol, yea if i had the 1100 I'd do it. I don't tho.

[Gusto222]

okay -- YOUR WRONG!! Gullwing doors & "lambo" doors are 2 completely diff things!!

Dont refer to tha "Lambo style" as gullwing they are not.. they are hinged differently. Gull wing as in SeaGull...hense Gull wing...


see my other post for tha differences..
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...threadid=65768


-----------
this is what tha decah kit look like on a civ...

[Cyprus106]

okay -- YOUR RIGHT... no need to get pissy. I didn't know really what to call them at the time. I've heard gullwing the most. and all of those people that said that -- THEIR WRONG TOO.
I could have called them Lamborghini style or vertical rise doors but whats the difference > (I know there's a big difference but people still know what I mean)

Now really - What about the question itself? Does my theory look good? Does anybod think it would work?

[gotetnies]

What's up man, damn you are one creative bablling mo fo,.... Nah really I like your idea about the Lambo door conversion, yeah since I was the first to post the site for www.decah.com people are throwing all around AF like a $2 hooker.:finger: Anyway, sounds like you might have the Theory down, but I don't know if it will Really work... I almost tried to email LAMBORGINI, just to see if someone would email me back with info on the door conversion,...... but I didn't ..... :bandit:

Keep up the good work man, looks like you got a lot of ideas goin' on...

I was finally able to clear out my headlights.... Check it out, I read up on here that throwing your headlights in the oven for 25 minutes, on 245 degrees, (would first loosen the cocking surrounding the lights), and then you could pry them open with a flat hedded screw driver, next just unscrew the Orange every where you see it,... Aint that some shit, all this time, and I was about to throw down like $200 for those Angle eyes (I still might get them) :silly2:

Couldn't quite remember if you had a 98' civic or not,....


Brian

[kicker1_solo]

Originally posted by Gusto222
okay -- YOUR WRONG!!

and you're wrong, it's "you're" not "your" :finger:





and no, I don't think your doors will work.

[Cyprus106]

and no, I don't think your doors will work.

hehe, ok... any elaboration?

gotetnies, Make sure you don't melt those lights sticking them in the oven. You wouldn't want to melt the plastic down and then be stuck with no lights at all. But now that you mention it, I've been looking for a way to pull out that orange reflector thing on the side of the headlight. I may try that...
I've got a 2K civic, btw.

[kicker1_solo]

Originally posted by Cyprus106


hehe, ok... any elaboration?
[/b]

nope, sorry

[CustomWhips]

lmao hes just a post whore. lol. i didnt read your posts. but ive come to one conclusion
i could work... but then again. it may just not work...:silly2:

[Necropunk]

Well i'm happy to see so many ppl are enthusiastic about choppin up a car to play with gullwings... Well as it so happens I am installing Gullwings in my transAM custom... Its a 1988 Third gen car and well Its the perfect car to expierement on.. It has T tops so placing the doors isn't a problem since the roof is already cut out with seals in place here is what you do.... Take some plate steel about the same thickness as my T-tops,,, trace the T-tops onto the steel cut it out... fabricate or use Delorian hinges,,, and Delorian gas shocks for the doors.

I had to build a small door frame around my windows and under the plate steel... Tilt the latch a bit and thats it... Gullwing doors...

You have the right concept, but hydrolics isn't the way to go... Go to Delorean.com and check out the shop, they have gas shocks for like $40 that may get you started... If you haven't t-tops... Just chop the roof out on either side... weld a few re-enforcments, atach the roof to the doors (welding is good :-) ) And make a hinge... hardest part is making a latch, but yer concept is good all the same... Good luck...

[hypeness]

Originally Posted by Cyprus106

I'm gonna get crucified for another seemingly "pittiful" thread about gullwings but what the hell... It's a learning experience.

I know We've all seen the idiots that ask about putting gullwings in their cars and stuff, and they're never actually gonna do it and their just plain stoopid and kinda curious I guess.
I've already tried toying with the gullwing thing once and everybody in my city doesn't know a rotary from a piston so they're no help. Maybe somebody on here is.

I've been playing with the concept of gullwings for a long time now, (Lamborghini style) and I've been to a few places online checking out concepts and stuff. I've got the diagram basically down and I know the theory in my sleep. A few friends of mine and I even tried doing it once, (We played with doors and an old accord from a junkyard to test with.) And they worked. But not good. They didnt push out before they went up. They just went up. And they went up rather tediously but it was a small victory for us.


Now I'm looking to do it right this time and seriously instead of curiously. Basically, what I'm doing is adding a hydrolic lift (meaning something similar to the hydrolics pushing up a trunk in the back of a minivan, or an integra trunk) to push the door up, (tilted up lightly and on a free-moving-door type hinge attached to the body. The end inside the door is non-moving. The hinge I mean is like the doors in some restaurants that just freely swing in and out. This is to allow the piston to move the necessary few inches out. Maybe a better part would be a pivot-and-ball type configuration...) I've got a hinge at the top of the door (below the window, not actually at the top... where a normal door has it's highest hinge) to allow it to move outward. The hinge is attached to a flat, circular swivel (kind of like how you spin your office chair). The hinge's two normal parts move side to side, but only a few inches. Then when the hydrolic lift pushes the door up, the circular swivel lets the hinge turn up with it. (If that makes any sense... if it doesn't, I'll scan in a few sketches.)
Use the OEM door latch to keep it down and in, [possibly turn it sideways if the door wants to push up badly due to the hydrolic.] When the driver opens the door, in order to get it pushed out far enough to clear the frame, I'm thinking I'm going to get one of the the 10 or 11 pound strength shaved door solenoids (?) from www.autoloc.com and let it push the door out the necessary 2 or 3 inches. While the doors pushing out, the hydrolic lift takes its place and is pushing up.
The door goes down the same way it came up. Put an ohshit handle in below the cigarette butt holder to grab it to pull down.

There's really only 2 problems with the theory that I'm slightly concerned about. The first one: How to keep the door stable and supported. I've got a rotating hinge allowing the door to swing out a few inches and a hydrolic lift holding it up. The hydrolic lifts are strong, I think they'll hold the door up, but I don't want it shaking or turning or anything. With the addition of the outward hinge, I'd like to believe it'll hold it but I can't be sure.
The second problem: The door going up. When it opens it's no longer latched down so the hydrolic will immedietly start pushing like it's supposed to. theoretically, as it pushes it will naturally push towards the path of least resistance. Meaning, if it starts pushing out, it will start going up because continuing to push straight out means ripping the hinge off the door handle. It can't go down because the swivel doesn't go any further down than what it is at the bottom of the door. (there's going to be an 'L' shaped bar that prevents it from moving more than something like 90 degrees) It's easier for it to go up because the hinge swivles up, therfore it will do just that, go up. That's theoretical. I'd hate to drill everything on there and then try it out and immedietly the hydrolic lift just pushes the door straight out and off or something. Should I have another, smaller hydrolic lift pushing up while the first one pushes out? That might work...

There it is in a nutshell. Does anyone think this'll work? could work? Any problems, suggestions? I'd really like to be confident and know all the pitfalls before I do this to my car. I know what happened to that one we played with in the junkyard.

Thanks a lot for hearing me out.

go to this sight you will see that it could be done http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2160016 and if you want more info about it let me know alot of other people that just wasted my time .they ask for the info put not doing any thing with it

[eckoman_pdx]

Check the thread dates before you post. This thread is over 3 years old. Lets try and leave dead threads dead.