Ghetto Rigg help!!!

["G"-sus!]

DAMN IT!! I just hooked up an amp and sub the ghetto way... I ran a power wire frome battery to amp and spliced into my bose stock amp for remote hook up.
Here is where I think my problem is...My amp is a sub amp (only one [+ -] speaker terminal) and has a RCA hook up and a "SPEAKER LINE IN" hook up- which I figured I could splice my stock speaker wire into and not need a RCA hook in.
So the sub isn't working- I know it isn't the remote b/c I hooked up a little jumper wire from power to remote to check it.
Does the "speaker line in" connections not work the way I rigged it?
Do I need to buy a RCA adapter?

Help!!!

[Swonder67]

You spliced the amps power wire into the remote turn on wire for your stock amp? Isn'tt hat wire only like, 16 gauge?

["G"-sus!]

I spliced the remote wire from the amp to the remote on the amp. It's only a small 100 watt amp. But that doesn't matter b/c I made a jumper wire from my amps power terminal to the remote terminal just to see if it was the wrong splice from the bose and nothing...Is there a better way to get a remote splice w/o using a toggle switch to the battery???

I haven't had a chance to F around w/ it but I will Mon. I always thought "speaker line in" terminals were for hookin up an amp without RCA jacks...I only spliced from one speaker- I don't need to do both, right!? Plus it's a single sub enclosure!

I got an old set of RCA's I'm gonna cut and splice in instead of the "speaker line in" way.

[frogg]

The speaker line-in will work.
Some things you might want to try:
1) Does the amp actually come on when you start your car? (What exactly do you mean by jumper wire from your power terminal to remote?)
2) If you indeed did splice into the right remote turn-on wire, maybe the voltage is not high enough to turn on your amp. Some are sensitive to how much they must receive to turn on.
3) Did you splice into the right wires for the rear speaker? 1 speaker is enough since that's all you are able to connect to your amp. You might try to splice into the unamplified wire (the one from your head unit to your amp) so you don't have a signal that is amplified twice.


If you want to test if your amp is powering up, remove the remote turn-on wire you have on there now. Then connect a new wire to the positive of a 9v battery and then connect the other end to the remote turn-on terminal of the amp. Make sure to also connect a wire to the negative of the battery and the other end to the chassis.
After this, turn on your music and if it doesn't play, I would either guess the following:
1) 9v isn't enough to turn on your amp (some require exactly 12v or above)
2) You have spliced into the wrong speaker wires.

["G"-sus!]

By jumper wire I mean I temporarly (sp?) connected the power and the remote with a little 4" wire. So it's gettin' 12v.

Maybe I need to splice into unamplified speaker wires. I'm gonna go F around with it between thunderstorms-FUN !!

Thanks
f-bOmb!

[frogg]

Well is the amp turning on with you splicing into the remote turn-on wire and running it to your new amp?

It should work, but you may need to install a relay - this will allow you to use the remote turn-on wire without a toggle switch.

Let's start from the beginning.

["G"-sus!]

I give up!
I know for sure my amp is gettin 14v, I checked w/ a volt meter.

Does you have or know where I can the wire diagram for the bose amp/harness so I know which wires are which?

This BLOWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!